I raised a similar idea several weeks ago. I expect to see a late spring/early summer onset of crabgrass like we (NJ) had several years ago. I am going to reapply Halts in mid May. The only issue I can find is that Halts suggests not applying it twice in a year. Not sure why. You may want to look for similar warnings on your product; especially about applying applications so close together. Capt Tom

oh my gosh, that is so beautiful. Very nice froggie, he seems happy surrounded by all the green. Lovely fountain. nae

I have the Miele Diamante' dishwasher (3 years now) and LOVE it! Best one I've ever owner. Sister-in-law has had a Miele dishwasher 8 years no problems. Our last "Maytag" lasted 4 years. Miele makes fantastic appliances even though they are more expensive. Saves money in the long run when you don't have to replace it. Make sure Miele certified guy puts it in if you get one. I am having a Miele single oven installed next week. Good luck! ps- my repairman told me to STAY AWAY FROM LG AND SAMSUNG. He said the parts they use look like toys and they are pieces of junk. He said if you American go GE or Whirlpool and get the longest service plan you can get because American made appliances are built these days to last 5 years. If you go Foreign expect to have more difficulty finding certified tecs and longer waiting time for parts.

brianvarick: The toroidal field extends above the coils through the glass/ceram and into the air above the glass. Potentially, without any inductive material, the field would extend up to almost half the diameter of the hob. The field lines will be attracted by an inductive material. If this material has the correct properties for good power transfer without overheating the control electronics or coil, (this is tested by the cooktop), the cooktop supplies power to the field. If you recall your eighth-grade science experiments with magnets and iron filings, the lines will preferentially converge on the inductive material. I imagine that there is some power loss as the gap above the glass is increased, but minor warping, and indeed use of silicone pads to support the pan, seems to have little effect on power transfer from field to the inductive pan base material. cpartist: My commentaries are intended to be instructional with the hope that ventilation seekers-of-truth will be able to extrapolate to their particular situation. I don't know your particular situation, so I will have to guess at one to give an example. I assume that you are going to mount the hood in the range of 30 to 36 inches above the cooktop. I assume that you will provide a sufficiency of make-up air to meet my assumption below about effective CFM vs. rated (zero static pressure) CFM. So, we start by making the hood over-sized for the cooktop area to capture the expanding effluent. A nominal size would be 42 inches by 27 inches. (24 inches might be sufficient against a wall depending on cooktop placement relative to the counter.) We will pretend here that this is also the aperture size, which is just under 8 square feet. I recommend a specific flow rate of 90 cfm/sq. foot making the total demand a bit over 700 cfm. I anticipate, therefore, that all of the pressure losses in the system from cooktop through baffles through ducting and transitions, roof cap or roof blower to the outside and back through some nominally sufficient MUA path, say 0.2 in. w.c., will cause the operating point on the fan curve to be 700 cfm. I guess (without having the particular fan curve of the candidate blower) that this condition will be consistent with a blower rated for around 1.5X this value or a bit over 1000 cfm. Depending on what you cook and how hot you cook it, and given induction tends to have lower effluent velocities than gas, and given that most hoods have aperture sizes somewhat less than their overall sizes, you might be satisfied with a blower rated as low as 800 cfm. A common rating for blowers in this range is 900 cfm (see, e.g., page 128 of the Wolf Design Guide). kas