Having same engine idle problems. 92 chevy Scottsdale 5.7L, 104,800 miles.Starts and runs great but, when it warms up setting in drive with foot on brake, the engine surges. Idles down then back up (like a stuttering). Sometimes, when driving between 35 and 40mph it will do a little hesitation, but when I give it gas it smooths right out. I have replaced TPS, engine temp sensor, plugs, wires, 02 sensor. new fuel filter, disconnected the EGR vac (No difference), tested MAP it is good. So,a few months ago I had a new Distributor put in, it seems this is when my problem started. No saying this is the cause, but yesterday when when starting it for the first time and after a min or so the distributor started make that sound again (bearing) after engine warmed up it stopped making the noise. So I m thinking I have a crappy distributor. And yes I put in a Carquest dizzy. Had no choice the 3 auto stores around here all have crappy after market parts so I thought Carquest was the better choice. So it looks like I will be replacing this dizzy with a AC Delco if I can find one. Maybe you guys can check you distributor for your problem. Hope my impute helps someone. any feed back advise is welcomed. Email me jdcron@wmis.net as I may not see your response.

Poor Guy! Main Man once locked the keys in his "old truck" while we were at Office Depot buying a bunch of Office Supplies. It was about 102 degrees with Houston humidity. We walked all the way back to his house to get the extra set of car keys. Thank goodness there was a Baskin Robins in the strip mall and we rested in there for a second with our ice cream. LOL! Thank goodness my Explorer has a key pad you can code in. Gayle

Rinse aid can (partially) counter-act the problems that all dish washers have with hard water. If you have really soft water, as I do, you can mostly forgo rinse aid and you'll still have excellent results. If rinse aid isn't an option, then what you need is a water softener. A whole-house softener obviously works, but that's an expensive investment. Instead, you could buy a dishwasher that has a small internal softener. I know that this is a pretty common feature on many Miele models. I don't know if there are other manufacturers who do the same. Please note that you will now have to buy salt to recondition the softener every so often. So, you won't completely be able to get away from buying some extra consumables. But presumably, you aren't allergic to regular kitchen salt...

I'm sort of in the camp of no powerwashing and then re-polymeric sanding. Just as this video explains: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk3hnUkMgtE In theory you have to remove all the old polymeric on the sides of every paver, down to the regular non-polymeric sand base, in order to not have new polymeric try to bond with old polymeric. By attempting this it's very likely you'll either have some of the old polymeric still in there or much worse powerwashing out some of the base sand which would create a lumpy patio. Directly blasting down with a powerwasher with an aggressive nozzle is a big no no. Maybe a surface attachment would be better or keeping a decent angle instead of pointing straight down. This is what most people do I think, they'll still go at it with a powerwasher on an angle and get a decent amount of the old polymeric out and then apply new polymeric and hope for the best bond. It'll usually last at least a couple years and I have definitely seen them leave hardened sand piles. I agree with the video and what your contractor did (tried) by using regular sand and a joint stabilizer epoxy which will bond better to the old polymeric instead of trying to blast all the old poly out. The problem just seems that your contractor didn't use enough product, watered it down or something. I would definitely be calling them based on pictures if a decent amount of patio looks like that are there's not downspout or gutter issues causing that. Maybe he didn't tamp the wider joints. Even polymeric would fill joints that wide though, it just doesn't last as long in wider joints is all. Neither joint stabilizer nor polymeric last very long though, maybe a few years, and joint stabilizer product can become expensive even if it might be a better method. On a small patio, It'll be about $250 more in materials per renovation to use joint stabilizer and plain sand instead of polymeric, and if I'm not mistaken polymeric would actually last a bit longer but there's the bonding issue of using new on top of old polymeric (plus potential of idiot with powerwasher blasting too deep if he knows to get a lot of the old out). I think this is something most people can do themselves even possibly with a regular garden hose pressure increasing attachment if that's enough to get some of the old poly out, and then just broom out some polymeric over the whole patio and tamp the wider joints with a homemade tamp of wood and carpet or rubber pad or something and add more sand after that until it's packed to the top, then leaf blower the excess sand off and mist wash the polymeric to activate it, or use joint stabilizer and sand instead of polymeric. but that's not to say you should fix this job yourself, if a decent amount looks like your pics, that's a pathetic fix and you should be calling them and make a small claims court claim if they refuse to fix it. EDIt, and yes you can also just use plain sand and no sealer but will need to do it every year probably as it washes out.