Is this your truck Ak girl? http://www.yooying.com/p/423869956032105020_217149161

Karma got yo ass

1992 k1500 Blazer surging at idol. I recently bought a 23 year old Blazer with 221k on the original engine and tranny. When i test drove it it seemed to surge and want to stall out at low RPMs. At idol in park it ran fine but as soon as it went in gear it sputteted and surged bad. Initally I thought it was a fuel delivery problem so i did the obvious, replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel sending unit, and rebuilt the throttle body. After all of that, still had the same problem. Next i replaced the EGR valve (should have done that first) runs great with the new egr. So my advice to you, disconect the vacuum line coming off of your egr and test drive it. If the rough idol stops, there is a good chance that's your issue. Hope this helps someone out there.

Thanks, I have the exact motor and year; have not tried this with my skipping and dying problem.

I have a 1993 1 ton Cheyenne. I experienced the same sort of symptoms. I'd go out start it and once it would die, next time it would sit and idle. Going down the road shifting through gears (it is a manual) it would reach 3000 to 4000 rpms and just lose power. I replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, top intake temp sending unit, and temp gauge sending unit. No change. At my wits end, I took the saw and gut a hole in the box floor and replaced the fuel pump/sending unit. Fixed it. Its never ran better. Hope this helps.

Yes, this does help. So you found it was the fuel pump? I was wondering the same thing. The last three times I cranked it and let it run for 30 minutes it ran perfect. At this time I am not driving it anywhere more than a block from my home. Thanks a lot for the input. timwilliams.biz

Yup, mine was the fuel pump all along. Just had to trace the issue to that point. I'd try that. More than likely you WILL replace the sending unit and pump as the fuel lines broke right off off on mine when I went to pull it out,

------- jdrinovsky, Why do you think the fuel lines broke off? Thanks for the input?

Lines were that rusty. Original pump/sending unit I'm guessing.

WELL I GOT LUCKY ALL MY PROBLEM WHY IT WAS RUNNING BAD WAS BECAUSE OF MY FUEL FILTER. SOMEBODY TRIED TO CHARGE ME 35 DOLLARS TO TELL ME THAT. LOL,LOL

A fuel filter partly full of water can do that. Enough fuel gets through to let the engine idle and run at low load, but up the demand and the engine bogs down and cuts out.

Imagine my surprise when I saw this old thread of mine. This was 9 years ago, it's been OK for a long time but started acting up again last year and it was another intermittent issue. It stalled, didn't want to start back up again. The shop finally got it to act up after a day of messing with it and driving it around. It was the distributor. I'm not sure exactly what all he replaced but he said it was corroded. I seem to remember distributor and rotor? It wasn't anything real expensive.

I am going to change my fuel pump; egr valve. It has new fuel filter, fairly new rotor and cap but will check them anyway. Hope this does it. Super well built truck and worth keeping as I have another PU and rotate driving them when both working. It is best to run any internal combustion engine 30 minutes a week per engine manuf's recomendation. The GMC dealer here will not work on them older than a '96 model and other mechanics will not either. Good thing I learned a lot in the past and have a lot of tools.

I hope my mechanic never stops, his shop's been opened since the 80s. I would think they are easier to work on than the newer engines. I plan to keep my two Chevy trucks until the wheels fall off of them or they turn to dust, whichever comes first. They are really "like a rock"!

Hey guys I'm a automotive technician of 17yr I currently have a 93 chevy 1500 extcab short bed I bought truck few months ago bc mine was stolen it has a new engine and transmission it had a miss and a horrible acceleration when I purchased it . Anyway I did a full tune up plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter air oil filters all new vacuum lines exhaust manifold gaskets cleaned catalytic converter out and still this miss and no power . So I went to scrap yard hauled in a shell of a truck no prob came out went to next stop light truck was spitting and popping then dies would try to start but wouldn't so I did the usually check found intermittent spark so I changed icm ran like new for ten hours or so next day pulling a mower trailer down hwy 75mph started up a hill it was dropping speed no power then pow back fires so I limped to destination and had someone bring another icm put that in and it was better but not much it was flooding at load idle and missing again same cylinder so I got it home changed the iac tps new distributor fuel pressure test at idle was 12psi so I started pulling wires off plugs and found #7 had little change I pulled plug to find the ac Delco cr43ts had broken the electrode off only in my cylinder so I replaced plugs again in two weeks time and then I had a slight low compression miss due to damage from plug malfunction and a rich terrible idle which come to find out is a tear in the regulator small one so I rebuilt tbi and runs great other than the slight miss at idle but I'm getting reimbursed for soon hope this may help some one it just may be the most difficult time with one tbi vehicle I've encounterd so far but all leads up to the last owners lack of mechanical knowledge

I wish I knew what you were saying, Brandon. I work on my own vehicles but do not understand your abbreviations, etc. Thanks anyway.

I was going to ask what a tbi was. I kept thinking "throttle body" something or nuther? Anyway, glad you finally got the old boy running again! SHEEW!!!!!!!!!! Sounds like you had to do a lot of work on that one! Did it already have the new engine and transmission when you bought it or did you do that yourself?

Why is my 91 s10 blazer with a 4.3 dieing after exactly 8 minutes from a cold start?!?!?!? I have a 1991 s10 blazer with a 4.3 that starts off from a cold start and runs PERFECTLY well for exactly 8 minuts (with ambient air at 70*F) and at 8 minutes and 1 seconds later it then INSTANTLY spits and sputters and then dies within 10 seconds. This sounds like a VERY common problem with these TBIs. Here's what I've tried so far.....1) I've replaced the fuel pump, that didn't fix it.....2) I've replaced the rotor and cap, that didn't fix it.....3) I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator (internal on these TBIs) that didn't fix it.....4) I've taken out the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and had it tested even while super heated and it tested fine so I put it back in.....5) I've tested the EGR and it passes all tests, doesn't get stuck open or closed and the diaphragm is good.....6) I've replaced the ECM, that didn't fix it.....what we have here is.....A LACK TO COMMUNICATE...somewhere... Now before everyone says things like ... "check you timing" ... just know that it RUNS PERFECT FOR THE FIRST 8 MINUTES so if it was the timing then the timing problem would show up in the first 8 minutes and it doesn't so the problem is either HEAT RELATED meaning once a certain temp is reached after only 8 minutes of running while its 70* F outside something is shutting off something which means something is defected, something is a rye, something's wrong in Denmark (or Kansas) and I'm struggling with the solution. It cannot be the pick up coil because the pick up coil is either completely faulty or not, its not intermittent, it strongly sounds like the ICM but I had that tested and its good even after having it super heated, so whats going on here? I was looking through the internet and I found three sources that lightly mentioned that this blazer has two fuel relays on it, one on the fire wall and one on the oil sending unit. One of them stated that he had the same unpleasant experience and eventually found out that it was a faulty fuel relay that was just faulty enough to stop working once a little heat reached it but after it cooled it worked again so he thought what I thought which was it had to be the ICM which most of the time is the cause for this annoying problem. But after he replaced the ICM (Ignition Control Module) that his symptoms did not change, after about 8 minutes his motor (4.3) would stutter and stop and then it came to him, if the ICM could have this occurrence then maybe the fuel relay could as well in the same way. He was correct. He replaced the Fuel Relay and is driving it today. Does this sound plausible to any of you? I'm at my witts end. What could be shutting off the fuel supply (or the spark sporadically) after just 8 minutes because 8 minutes is not enough time to get anything hot except the exhaust manifold. Whats going on here!?!?!?!?

Have you read the trouble codes? There could be a clue in there.

Its either fuel delivery or ignition. If was fuel delivery, say from a plugged valve in the fuel tank filler cap, it would stumble and run poorly for a few seconds as the fuel mix leaned out. Suddenly cutting out appears to be an ignition failure. You'd need to monitor this from a cold start. if you have an old ignition timing light (from your pre-electronic days), you might be able to use this. My timing light does not have to be directly connected to the ignition circuit. Mine has a pick-up that clamps over a spark plug lead and the lamp is powered from the vehicle battery. If you have this type, clamp in on number 1 spark plug lead and watch for ignition failure.

Some of these timing lights can not be run continuously. In that case, start the engine, activate the timing light and observe the timing advance. This assures your setup is working and that you have normal ignition advance at cold start. you already know that trouble is going to occur is about 8 minutes, therefore, the timing light does not have to run all the time. However, as the engine head warms up, take an occasional peek at the ignition advance. It may change when the system switches from start conditions to closed loop operation. This is one point where ignition shutoff might occur. When you get within a couple minutes of the failure, continuously monitor the ignition. You are trying to determine if ignition failure stopped the engine of was it something else.

My hunch is that something happens when the engine head warms up. If you have a "cam position" sensor, suspect it. I am not familiar with your model. Some GM vehicles of that era had a cam position sensor in the distributor. it replaced the function of the points. It was a hall effect sensor and some were temperature sensitive. The bad ones would work when cool and screw up when the distributor bowl got warm or hot.

You may need the help of a professional that has proper diagnostic equipment. He should be able to find it since the problem is repeatable. From this distance, my guess is electrical or electronics.

How can I get the read out codes from a 92 GMC. The GMC dealer will not work on it. And, I do not know any honest mechanics.

You can do it yourself. The instructions are given in the link below. The code is read by counting the number of blinks made by the 'check engine or service' light. Its best if you have access to a code reader compatible with your system. A few vehicles can enter the code display mode by a certain sequence of ignition key on-off motions. If you do not have a repair manual, search on-line for information about your truck. It is recommended that you use a repair manual, however.

Once you have the code(s), you'll need to consult a table of these codes to see what they mean. 'Good' repair manuals should have this table. If you do not have such, search on-line for the table of codes.

Reading older GM on-board-diagnostic codes

Most car makers changed from the OBD-I to the OBD-II connector in 1996. A few changed in 1995.

Check with your auto parts store such as AutoZone. They may read the codes for you (if they have a compatible reader).

Mine is a 92 and that is why the GMC dealer will not take it in to repair. I have a repair manual for the vehicle and have not noticed the blinking code data system in it but may have missed it. I had an 86 PLymouth that had the same set up. If it is in there I will find it. I will look up code reader for the truck. Thanks, Jemdandy.

Your vehicle is 24 yrs old and many new car dealerships have a cut-off on how far back they stock repair parts, maybe to minimum required by state law. However, a good seasoned GM mechanic should be able to work on your vehicle. Look around to see if there are any independent mechanics who regularly work on GM trucks. If the body is on good condition and the vehicle has relatively low miles, it may make sense to spend some repair money on it. otherwise, economically, it may be better to apply the money toward the next vehicle.

If the truck has 120,000 miles or less on it, and the engine has been well cared for, it has potentially several more thousands of miles left in it. If the truck has 150,000 miles of more, major expenditures are questionable. You'd throw money into it mainly for hobby reasons and the love of keeping the old truck going.

I keep two trucks going; a newer one and a spare. The '92 is a spare in great condition. I have been working on vehicles since 58 as father had garage for 20 years before computers fucked up our easy to fix cars. I have had it since 94 and always well maintained. It is built so well I am going to keep it going as I have added so many new parts including AC which I work on, too. Just have a "skip-and-die" problem I cannot find. It is basically easy to work on as well. I have the tools mech wise but not much electrical for computer oriented repairs. Truck has 163K and should easily go double that. It is worth fixing to me even if to trade or sale. Thanks for the info.

Tim:

Here's more information about your fuel system.

GM fuel system

Read to near the end of this article where it discusses items that might shut off fuel. Also note when it changes from open loop to closed loop operation. This might be when your problem kicks in.

Sorry, my former post gave information for a Saturn engine. My search string should have found a GM 1500 truck instead. However, GM used similar logic in their control systems across several models.

If your truck has loose fuel cap detection, check out the cap. The fuel cap on a closed system has a one-way vent in it. It allows air to enter and is supposed to block exiting air. If the vent valve has failed or the cap does not seal, it can cause the engine to run poorly.

Thanks, did not know that about the cap. It will be a big job changing the fuel pump; will keep looking first.

I wouldn't change the fuel pump until it is proven bad. If it ran the motor for 8 minutes and can supply fuel when the engine is revved, it may be ok. A pressure test at the injector log should verify if its supplying enough pressure. A failed pressure regulator can cause low pressure. The injectors must have pressure in a very narrow range to operate properly. (I am assuming that your engine has injectors instead of a Throttle Body Injector [TBI] ).

I am not the guy with the 8 minute running truck; see my truck problems above.

I have an 89 k2500 that I just put a jegs 350 crate motor in. The old motor ran fine when pulled just started knocking. I put my old intake on the new motor and the throttle body. The only way I can get the truck to start is to disconnect break out wire or whatever you want to call it and advance the timing. Once it's running I reset the timing to zero. I have tried up to 4 btdc as well. The truck will start and run the rest of the day but after it sets over night it will not start again unless I mess with the timing. Any help or advice with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Threehonda

You'll have better responses if you do not hijack someone else's post. I suggest that you copy your query to a new posting. That way, replies will not get mixed up as can happen when multiple problems from different people appear within the same posting.

This is kind of a catch - all comment section started by "arkansas girl" about 92 gmc pick ups in 2007 so we all can share our knowledge of how to fix them

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I think the thread is getting confusing.

Arkansas_girl:

I agree with you. Your post is getting cluttered with issues about other vehicles. That's why I requested those 'others' start their own separate postings, but some don't seem to realize the need. For example, threehonda has an interesting problem that merits its own post instead of burying it in this post. It would get better attention if its title appeared in the subject listing of this forum.

Yes, it would get attention where as now it's just lost. People don't normally read a thread all the way through.

Yeah, I just googled my model of my truck and year wanting help from others with similar problems. I did get confused as to whom jemdandy was talking to, but no problem. It does not bother me; I am glad to get the input especially since GMC will not help at all. I read all this thread.

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Was hopping someone on here can help me out. I've got a 1994 chevy silverado with the 5.7 v8. Was running strong I parked it for a good 6 months and now it starts and emediatly turns off. It will stay on if I give it gas, engine sounds strong but as soon as I let off it emediatly turns off. I have replaced and done the following, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, cap rotor, rebuilt the TBI ( the enjectors spray a perfect cone) replaced the Iddle air control valve (IAC) , replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the throttle position sensor (TPS), replaced the EGR. I replaced the catalatic converter. I replaced the temperature sensor. I am at a breaking point, the truck continues to do the same turns on, and emediatly dies, unless I give it gas. Has anyone on here had this isues? And what was the cure..

My first guess would be the fuel pump. Has that been replaced yet? I have the two trucks, one a 92 and one a 96 and they both needed new fuel pumps a few years back. Couldn't you take it to a shop and have that checked out?

Was replaced, 2 years ago, that was my next step, it's still under warranty so it will be free, just got to make time to get it installed. Just don't see it being the pump as it will stay on if I give the truck gas, and if I give it full throttle she revés strong and good, so she's getting fuel. But guess I will be throwing in a new one for giggles, I hope it's the problem.

Did you check and see if something made a nest in the tail pipe?

No varmints in the tail pipe, she's clean.

Your truck was sitting for a long time, I know that I've heard that's not good. Maybe if you could just do a google search for damages from letting a car sit, there may be some information that will help let you know what could have happened. Maybe the gasoline could have moisture in it or sediment? Perhaps a gas treatment is all it needs? One time I got gas at a certain gas station and each time I got gas there, my truck sputtered. After it happened twice, I knew not to go there again. I put STP gas treatment and that fixed it each time. Just a thought. Something else I thought about, we just got a used car and put what we thought was a good battery in it. The battery had run down and had to be charged up but it was pretty new. So even thought the car would start right up, it caused it to keep dying and also caused the check engine light to come on. After the new battery, it didn't give us any more problems.

Just an update, installed the fuel pump, no go still same symptoms. Well that was till last Friday, couple friends came over to pick me up we have a Motorcycle night every first Friday of the month out here . While pulling the bike out of the garrage Alex asks me what the truck is doing in the front. Told him the issue I was having with it. He asked me to turn it on so he could see/hear it. I had the keys handy so turned it on a couple times for him as usual turned on and than emediatly turned off. After the 4th time he said got it. Turned it on it ran perfectly. I jumped out to see what Magic spell he had cast" lol it was an air leak, there's a little rubber elbow that holds a air line from the TBI to the MAP sensor that was ripped. Lol" can't believe a $3 dollar part caused me all that havoc. Well that's the update she is up and running. Thank you for trying to help much appreciated....

Awesome, glad your friend was there to diagnose that.

I still have not changed my fuel pump. Hopefully will get around to it soon. The flu knocked out my energy.

Hi my name is Anthony I have a1992 chevy k1500 my truck started acting rough so I went to the shop and got the temp sensor replaced and a new fuel regulator I just replaced the fuel filter myself the problem that started that made me take it in , in the first place I start my truck sometimes it idles up and down then smooths out but when I put it in reverse it idles up and down and sometimes dies arkansas girl any thoughts?

Unfortunately I'm not the mechanic here, oh how I wish I knew how to work on cars. :) I don't recognize the symptoms as anything that my truck has had happen.

Having same engine idle problems. 92 chevy Scottsdale 5.7L, 104,800 miles.Starts and runs great but, when it warms up setting in drive with foot on brake, the engine surges. Idles down then back up (like a stuttering). Sometimes, when driving between 35 and 40mph it will do a little hesitation, but when I give it gas it smooths right out. I have replaced TPS, engine temp sensor, plugs, wires, 02 sensor. new fuel filter, disconnected the EGR vac (No difference), tested MAP it is good. So,a few months ago I had a new Distributor put in, it seems this is when my problem started. No saying this is the cause, but yesterday when when starting it for the first time and after a min or so the distributor started make that sound again (bearing) after engine warmed up it stopped making the noise. So I m thinking I have a crappy distributor. And yes I put in a Carquest dizzy. Had no choice the 3 auto stores around here all have crappy after market parts so I thought Carquest was the better choice. So it looks like I will be replacing this dizzy with a AC Delco if I can find one. Maybe you guys can check you distributor for your problem. Hope my impute helps someone.

any feed back advise is welcomed. Email me jdcron@wmis.net as I may not see your response.