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Counter Depth fridge WITHOUT a dispenser

11 years ago

As we are moving to a smaller house, it's time to say goodbye to our built in 36" all-fridge and 36" all freezer. Sure was nice...

In our next house we are looking for a counter-depth SxS (do not like the potential mess in the freezer of a FD). Reading reviews on this forum and elsewhere, ice and water dispensers seem to cause most problems. We can easily forgo the dispenser and an internal water cooler altogether. Ice maker is nice but could be gone too. Looking around, we have seen a DCS without a dispenser, but not much else. Not sure it's worth the premium. I'd rather buy a Samsung CD SS (currently around $1800 at Lowes) and risk the service problems caused by the dispensers... Any other options/thoughts/recommendations....?

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Comments (4)

Nunyabiz1
11 years ago
I have only had Fridges WITH ice makers and water dispensers for the past 22 years.
Both are Kenmore one was a Kenmore/Whirlpool 29cu.ft (owned for 19 years without a single problem, sold for $350) and the one we have now is a Kenmore Elite/Samsung, (almost 3 years now without a single problem)

Have never once had any problems of any kind with ice/water.

The only thing that I kind of regret at this point is buying CD, while it looks WAY better in our small kitchen the depth of the drawers and overall lack of space even in this 24cu.ft model we have is disappointing when used to our huge fridge for so many years.

When we sell this house will probably sell fridge with it, and will NOT be buying another CD fridge in the future UNLESS I can have a second fridge in the garage or something like that.
The fridge itself is very nice, quiet, works great its just the size of a CD fridge no matter which one is just plain lacking.
breezygirl
11 years ago
You're right. Not many options in a non-dispensing CD SxS 36" fridge. Especially in the non-high end market. I haven't heard the best things about Northland fridges so would be hesitant to go there. Don't know about DCS other than their cooktops and ovens.

I was going to suggest a model with internal water and forgo the water hookup, but that doesn't open up any more choices really.

Have you used a bottom freezer model at all? I used a French door (can't stand FD myself for the fridge top) and now have a single door fridge with bottom freezer. There are units with freezer organization systems that prevent a messy freezer. Besides the ice maker, mine has an internal upper drawer and three bottom compartments, two small and one large. I don't find I lose anything in mine, but generally in the main compartment items are stacked two deep. Not a problem at all for me as I store meats and fish on the bottom and only use those at most once a day. I love opening up the full-width fridge door and not having to stoop/bend over for anything. Just a thought for you and I opens up dozens more options for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ajmadison's list for your requirements
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How deep is the Case of the refrigerator? That is meant to line up with the edge of the counters typically so the doors stand in front of the counter edge and have room to swing without impingement on the countertop. You may need to pull this forward to have adequate doorswing. Do they make a model that has a case of about 28" with door thickness adding a few inches bringing it to 32 or so? The other issue that you should check is that counterdepth need significantly less airspace around them, because they are insulated and ventilated a bit differently than a full depth fridge.
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Refrigerator carcass/box depth is only part of the story when determining the depth of a refrigerator and its impact on an aisle. You need to measure the full depth - including: (1) Box + Doors + Handles (2) Amount of space you will have behind the refrigerator for air circulation, power outlet + plug, and water line (if you have a water spigot and/or an icemaker). From my experience, CDs need less recommended air circulation than standard depths. Check the refrigerator's specs for the minimum recommended - but be aware that your installation may need more space, depending on your setup (e.g., do you need more space for the plug or water line than is recommended in the specs?) As Lisa mentioned, you need to measure from the handles when determining the aisle width and you need to determine how busy that aisle will be. You also need to take into account what is in front of the refrigerator - is the Prep Zone in front of the refrigerator? the Cooking Zone? If the Prep or Cooking Zone is directly in front or it is in any way "shared" work space, you will need more space in that aisle. So, measure from the refrigerator's handles to the counter edge of an island/peninsula or whatever is in front of the refrigerator, determine what you will have directly across from the refrigerator, and determine how busy that aisle will be.
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weedmeister
11 years ago
Just because it has a dispenser or ice maker doesn't mean you have to hook it up. And with that in mind, look for one where everything is in the door. This takes up less space.
Cavimum
11 years ago
We bought a counter-depth (I assume you mean a fridge that does not jut out past the counter top) side-by-side roughly ten or twelve years ago. It is an Amana, was special order, and we've had no problems (yet) with the ice maker or ice/water dispenser. You always have the option to not connect them to the water supply. I don't know if Amana still makes this model fridge.

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