Haven't got an estimate yet, but am having more glass work done and plan to ask them this as a side question once they are here. I find people are so reluctant to think out of the box or do anything unusual. But once you have them convinced they are getting more work and that you are not completely crazy... Glass backsplashes are common, maybe I'll ask some modern kitchen display stores if they can recommend someone. The principle is the same. The paint on the back of the glass has to withstand the glue. Not sure if obscure glass alone will be opaque enough. Bodica, I like your idea with the light source, but wouldn't be able to to it in my situation. I'd be afraid if there's a hollow behind the glass, that it would be less solid. I'm just looking for plain frosty green. I like simplicity. The tiled walls on each end and the foot wide space between the two glass panels will be done in oversized tile (3'x 3') also to avoid groutlines. I've seen pics of an all-glass shower and it seemed a bit cold and overwhelming. I'm countering the cold green-ness with some warm yellows and orange and lots of wood.

thanks all. --probably thought I'd gone away, taking so long to answer. It just seems one "challenge" follows another. The time goes by and you try to hold things together or repair things including your body and sometimes, things just keep coming. Hopefully, I'm forgive for being long time in answering. It's been in & out of docs. for me and tonight, wife goes to hospital. I managed to get a small, very small, strip piece of the paneling off, intact. I used a blow dryer to heat it. The adhesive cement is very, very strong. the blow dryer took a long time to heat the wood--I thought it was going to scorch , before the paneling came loose, but I finally got it. That 4"x4' section took over an hour of work! There does seem to be though a magic temperature, if I can get up to it, the adhesive softens enough to let me hammer a putty knife between it and the wood, other wise--no go. the putty knife won't cut it and the piano wire I tried to use, broke. I hoped that was the piece that would give me access to what I needed to work on, but no. I'll have to remove at least, maybe two, of the full 4x8 sheets. If I destroy this Walnut, there will be no way to replace it. And I do not want to have to figure out some other way to refinish the basement--I guess I could glue sheet rock to the walls, if I glue enough shims in first. I just hope I can get the panels down. You'd think that 30+ year old glue after being so old and going through freezes and thaws would be brittle and give way, but it sure doesn't. Probably the easiest way is to pry the furring strips from the walls and try to put them back up? Because of the unevenness of the concrete walls the strips are glued on both horizontal and vertical. And to get them off, I'll have to take down the entire wall! -- ouch! Is that the only way? I did such a great job putting this stuff up, I can't even see the finishing nails I used to make certain the panels stayed attached to the strips while the glue set. Then of course, I dabbed a bit of paint, the same color of the dark, vertical seams they are in, on the nail head. they are virtually invisible. To find them, I hope a magnet will work. If I pull off the furring strips, they won't be a problem. If I try to take off the paneling, I'm not certain if I have enough room to drive them through the panels before they hit the concrete. What a job. In removing the one little piece of paneling, I learned that I'm going to have to pull an entire corner of the ceiling tile down, as well. It just gets worse and worse...or maybe I should look at it as an exciting challenge? Let's see if I can do it? --yeah, right :( Instead of using a hair-dryer to try to heat the wood, what about trying an electric iron? Think I could do that without scorching the paneling? If so, how high of heat would you set it to and what would be good to put between the bottom of the hot iron and the paneling? --I don't think laying an iron, directly on the walnut, would be very good for it. Or should I just give up and try to separate the furring strips from the wall, leaving the paneling attached. --What a nightmare it was putting those up--absolutely nothing was plumb, level. It took hours and hours to get them level and plumb. Maybe there's an expert way to get these down--it'll take at least 4 people to take a wall all in one piece, especially to not cause damage to any of the panels. Then, how do I get it back up? Is it time to throw the walnut away and put up sheet rock? Bob

Thanks. I can get a razor blade or something between the sides of glass and the channels, and cut the silicone. However if the person before me also put silicone on the base of the channel, that's going to be a lot harder to remove I think. Fun stuff!

@Jennifer K Theres actually a large closet on the other side of that wet bar in the hallway to the left of the wet bar, I thought about closing off the wall and expanding the closet. I dont need space for a desk area at this point as the home has two butlers pantries, one of which I was going to turn into a little desk nook and a large room for a home office. My kids will have a desk setup in their bonus room as well. I thought about a reading nook but the kids want a treehouse in the backyard instead. My reasoning for the drywall was it’s the least expensive option and I think I need the wall space for hanging photos. I want to take my photo and photoshop out the wet bar and see how it’ll look!