How is it going to be installed-self leveling compound or thinset troweled on? Are the wires plan wires or is it embedded in a mat system? I spent about spent about $450 for my Suntouch WarmWire system. This included the wire, the thermostat with temp probe, extra temp probe, and mounting straps. This did not include the plastic lath about $50 (cant remember); self leveling compound x 5 bags at $30/bag; foam self stick 1/4x3/4 window insulation that I used around the periphery (to stop flow of SLC into wall space); cheap caulk to caulk all the openings, edges, and between the joints of the subfloor; staples; self leveling primer. And of course labor, in this case mine and my DH. The mat type wire is more expensive but there is no lath needed. This is my experience and I could have missed something. I have only done 2 floors now.

Hola, Sorry, forgot to post layout: And no, we're not thinking of using our huge fireplace as a heat source. My kids have asthma, so all the tiny particles from wood burning or pellet stoves are not good for the kids. And I don't think they're that environmentally friendly. If we have the money, we would do geothermal heating. Here's our house in about 20inches of snow last year (does this help your decision, since it's nice and warm today?): plllog: "You have young children. You have a budget...Then the children can spread out their painting projects on the floor, roller skate, or whatever. Real linoleum, such as Marmoleum, is an ecologically friendly choice...you can easily replace it when you decide you want hardwood. In fact, you can do the subfloor as if you're getting hardwood... Then it's easy to mop. And you can make the change when the kids are older and you feel like spending the money--or not." These are my thoughts exactly!!! roobear: "Hardwood is better for resale, it would add value to your home, it can be refinished etc. Plus, it would fit the period and style of the house better." EXACTLY! The flip-side of my thinking as well. If I'm going to do hardwoods later, why not do them now and enjoy the benefit of the flooring, rather than pay twice? I've also thought about the heated rugs; the Japanese use them all over their house. circuspeanut: "have cold feet 6 months out of the year" Argh: sometimes it feels longer. cleo: "using engineered hardwood floors" Great idea, but because we installed some in our previous house, I really did not like them. My main concern w/ them is wear and tear, especially in between the planks. What happens if water (or raw meat juice) gets in between and swells the ?particle boards, etc? lovilynne: "have you considered DIY wood" Oh, while my house is not historical, it seems like it with the uneven floor, no insulation in the walls, etc :) We are DIY the hardwood floors for the 2nd floor right now. The learning curve was HUGE for us. And I'm not sure about my skills w/ hardwood floor over radiant heat. "they make a special heater to go under the cabinet" Oh!!! Can you please tell me more? Do you have pictures to share? Hmmm...

Air-to-water heat pump systems are relatively new and were only made practical by newer high-efficiency inverter-controlled variable-speed compressors. I looked into this a good bit before finally opting for geothermal. These air-to-water systems work better in dry climates than in relatively humid ones where they tend to ice up in winter and have to go through periodic defrost cycles, which detract significantly from the efficiency. So if you're looking into performance specs, you have to make sure that is taken into account. As noted, Daikin Altherma makes some very nice systems, but they are not cheap. If I remember correctly, they were going to be $8-10K just for the hardware, not including installation and not including the radiant piping itself.

Agreed Bry, that's a great point. In renovation or replacement comparison situations when a household is consistently using the baseline allowance, using the next tier rate up would be more accurate. It's also tough figuring out how much of the minimum monthly gas fee to include. I would guess the water heater may account for ~50% of usage so more accurate water heater gas costs would be somewhere near $302. Much tougher figuring the added comfort and space conditioning benefits of a HPWH and if the gas combustion appliance is naturally vented, there is probably added moisture and potentially health costs involved. For new construction, not knowing specific situations I think average kwh rates are where to start, and it's only the most energy intensive homes that would recover new infrastructure costs. Those outliers might be wise to improve the design. An energy rater would be helpful for plan specific comparisons. Mr. Fudd's Tier 2 kicks in at 202 kwh, lower than baseline allowances I saw digging around on the PG&E site. It must be an energy intensive area because most Tier 2 levels I saw were higher. This suggests the averages I linked to are close. Most tier talk for PG&E (serving a third of CA households according to this page) is about to be irrelevant as they are transitioning to Time Of Use rates for everyone. This makes sense for the increasingly renewable electric grid. For example, it will encourage electric vehicle owners to charge during off-peak hours and will keep electric water heating costs competitive with gas, even for replacement situations and even in places of high electric/ low gas rates. This requires the effort of putting a timing control device on a tank water heater, something those with basic electrical skills could DIY. Tying this back to topic, new construction skipping air-conditioning could use electric resistance (or heat pump) radiant floor heating during off-peak hours. The floor mass releases heat during on-peak hours of the day and an efficient envelope would keep it in. No combustion inside home necessary and cost effective if done right. A guy is doing it off-grid in Saskatchewan so it might be easy in CA. Here's a link to the controller he built for the PV to electric resistance radiant floor (or battery) interface.