Andie, It's not too bad tonight, I can actually see sky and yellow sun - the smoke is not nearly as heavy. We are experiencing a great relief because the Fire Fighter's staging area is right here in our town, about 2 miles from my property. On the large field across the highway there is a tent-city, porta-potties, trailers from food-providers. I am sure they would not set up this big a facility if there was danger. Three miles or so north of here there is the Kate Wolf Memorial Concert, about 2,000 or so attending. All that makes us fell pretty secure. I am coughing and sneezing and my eyes water, I think the days of smoke are really hitting home now. My animals all are a bit under the weather, smoke gets to them, also. My Taffy and Joann's RocCat - both very independent - have not checked in today, usually nothing noteworthy, but because of the fires, there are more coyotes heard and I'm sure there are many hungry and upset beasts around, driven here by the fires, so that's a concern, even though those boys are pretty wise and careful. Taffy just may not have noticed yet that the house guests have gone; he tends to be invisible if there are strange cars around. All in all, right now it is all much more positive, and the T-storms have not materialized. Maybe the worst is over and pretty soon we can breathe again (with relief, that is)

It's the oven cavity temperature sensor, which is the long metal probe ceneterd at the upper back top inside the oven that needs to be replaced. Part should cost around $35 at WCR Distributing, but you must provide your model & serial number in order to verify the sppecific part for your oven: https://www.wcpdistributing.com/distributor/PartDetail.csp?return=partssearch&Code=815572&CSPCHD=000000000000qmalpQ3dz4rF5kNAvgKyq9_5RQ64QuSYGhiYYo WOLF PART #: 815572 DESCRIPTION: SENSOR, TEMPERATURE

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I've read about a similar case that turned out it was due to some loose insulation that got into the gas input line and ended up blocking the gas flow to the oven. In this case the situation was an extreme reduction in the ability for the oven to reach and maintain temp. First, does it take lots more than 30min to reach say 350F? Crank it up to 450F or 500F and see if it ever gets there. If it takes more than an hour to get up to your baking temp, then it's possible just the act of opening it up and and putting your food in is cooling it down enough that it takes another 30 min to get it back to your baking temp. Slow preheat can be caused by restricted gas flow. Here's a trick to try that I use to use. Preheat the oven and once it's at temp and holding for 10-15min, then open the oven door for a minute or so. Close the oven door and wait for the flame to come back on. Once the oven has just reached it's set temp but the flame has not gone out yet, open the door quickly and put your food in. Most oven's overshoot the set temp a bit to keep the it from going on and off and back on too quickly. This trick might help the oven hold it's temperature right after the food goes in. Another thing to try is take two oven thermometers and put one towards the front and one towards the back. Then bring the oven to 350F and see if there's a significant difference between the readings. You can move them around the oven to look for any pockets that might not be maintaining temp. Usually, this will be near to door or one of the heat vents. One silly question is when you do your baking, you don't open the oven to check on it do you? If you do, then the obvious answer is that the oven temp is cycling up and down. If you husband has an advanced digital temp probe, it should have an min/max record. To use it, put the probe in the oven (not touching any surfaces of course) and bring the temp to some set value like 300F or 350F. Then reset the recorded min/max temps but make sure it's at temperature before resetting. Let it go for 30-60min and check the min/max (and average if avail) values. They should not vary much. Good luck and let us know if any of the suggestions worked.