You're welcome ragtime gal, but depending on the intensity of your conditions, I wouldn't discard the shade idea. In fact, where I am, the highest insolation (solar radiation hitting earth) on Earth, I'm planning on using lots of shade when the oven door closes on me in the next couple weeks. I bought 30'x12'sheets of burlap (that are used for erosion control) and made my own retractable shade covers (attached to the roof and fence like awnings. I'm sure the wind will make this a very bad idea, but then I need to learn the hard way. 7'x7' burlap sheets are only $4 at Home depot. I'm cutting one up to protect a couple unprotected plants and some set clusters that will otherwise turn to unripened soup on the vine. Finally, a combination of my reflective windshield protectors or mylar blankets and Russ's insulating bubble wrap, is probably the best way to keep the soil cool. I'm going to add the bubble wrap.

ODB or plywood have been the standard exterior wall sheathing materials for more years than you or I have been on this earth! They are the simplest and best way to resist seismic and wind shear forces in framed walls (when constructed with proper connections). In Oklahoma, tornados can create a lot of uplift forces and, thus, you will want a foundation, wall and roof design and connection that are resistant to thise forces. That means continuous rigid sheathing such as OSB or plywood. important. If it was my house I would use: 1) 2X6 studs with dense pack cellouse insulation; 2) house wrap; 3) minimum of 1" XPS rigid insulation with taped joints (or 2-1" insulation panels with overlapping joints; 4) brick and masonry ties; 5) drainage space; 6) brick or stone masonry finish materials. Proper sealing at all plate lines, corners and openings is essential. Your footing will need to have a brick ledge formed in it to receive and carry the brick/stone masonry. There's lot of good details on how to do this, such as: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/profiles/etw-charlotte-profile?topic=doctypes/enclosures-that-work/etw-building-profiles This is an article from "Enclosures That Work" from buildingscience.com which is a good resource to bookmark and study. Good luck with your project.

I believe it's a coat of silicon that gives it the non-stick covering, and it's heavy-duty type foil. I've only found it in 12-inch wide, 35 sq. ft. rolls, but I live in the middle of nowhere and the newest/latest/greatest may not always be available. My broiler pan for my toaster oven is pretty small - easily covered with a single width of foil; and if I need a foil packet for foil dinners, I just make them. Wish it did come in the pop-up foil sheets, but alas.... -Grainlady

Concerning the use of radiant barrier vs foil faced insulation panels, you might want to contact Ed Sumpolec of energy conservation specialists @ 321.693.3562 His e-mail address is edrsum@aol.com The use of foil panels on the exterior is extra insulation, but has less effectiveness in combating heat gain because there is no air space involved.The use of radiant barrier on the inside wall cavaties w/ an air space is more effective at lessening heat gain,and helps in heat loss properties in the winter as well.The foil faced panels will aid in controlling heat loss in the winter as effectively as the radiant.It all depends on your application and climate zone.We installed radiant barrier on our build with more concern in holding in the heat which involved a different application not utilizing an air space. The foam application in your roof cavaties is covering the best of both worlds for you concerning heat gain/loss and i dont understand you not considering foaming your wall cavaties as well.