Way back when, a freind of mine had a '53 Chevy and learned the same lesson the hard way. At the time, it was popular among budding car buffs to de-chrome their cars. My friend de-chromed his to the extent of removing the door handles. Hidden inside the doors at place where the door panel was flexible was a micro-switch. It could be operated by slapping the heal of your hand on the door. The switch operated a solenoid that unlatched the door. One day at work, he left rhe light on and discharged the battery. When he came out from work, he could not get into his car. His car also had a hood latch cable rather than a conventional external operated hood latch. What did he do? He found that by laying on the ground he could reach up behind the grill and pull the hood latch cable enough to unlatch the hood thus saving him from having to cut a hole in the body work. The battery was jumped and the doors unlocked. The door handles were put back on.

Hi All, I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!): As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program). And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work). But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote??? Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works! For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4. I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!

Greetings: Thanks to Don, for your input to my inquiry. I changed the Keyless Entry Pad and "bingo" the garage door is now back in operation. Thanks again and Merry Christmas to all of you..

My mother had one on her house for a few years but turned the other way so you had to punch in a code to get out of the house (my father had Alzheimer's and it was a great preventative for wandering.) Most of the one's I've seen have a modern feel to them, the handle on other side had a simple look that was appropriate to the handle. My 80-year old mother didn't have enough of a thumbprint left to use that option, but you can use a key or the code. Her lock might have been a different brand (purchased at Costco.com) but you could leave it in an unlock mode. My sister now has it on her side entry door as she didn't like the look with her very traditional home, but it has solved the problem of lost keys with teen-age boys. Sister says the thumbprint sometimes doesn't work, but since everyone in the family knows the code, it's not a big problem for them. We just used the included handle for the other side, but since I didn't install it, I'm not sure if it's a universal type that you could change if you didn't like what it came with.