Comprehensive budget range hoods thread
shmulibaby1
12 years ago
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weedmeister
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoshmulibaby1
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Need Range hood liner for 36' American Range
Comments (2)Why would you not have a choice to go to a size other than 48'' There are tons of liners which are 42'' wide, which would be the minimum optimal size for your range, and there's always the relatively inexpensive option of going with a custom sized liner to fit your exact needs. What exactly are you looking for? Have you looked at some of the prior threads on this subject? Here's one useful thread: Here is a link that might be useful: Need help with ventilation...See MoreChimney Range Hoods for 30" range
Comments (13)Needinfo1 - what Tom meant by recessed is a canopy hood. I.e. don't buy one of those flat hoods, even though they look cool. Also, the curved glass ones aren't so great. A canopy hood will capture best the rising smoke and grease. To the OP, a 30" hood will be fine. The hoods that are 36" wide over a 30" hood are the ideal, but so many of us cannot afford to forego the upper cabinetry for the 36" width. You should get a hood that is not a skimpy depth of 20-22". Those won't cover the front burners. As Tom said, a 24" depth hood would be good. Your question about 600 cfm vs. less cfm: it is better to have the 600 cfm, even if you don't use it that often, say, for searing steak, than to have an underpowered hood, and have to have it on its highest setting all the time. You'll have less noise if you can run your 600 cfm hood at medium or low, and still have the hood be effective, than if you are running your 400 cfm hood on high all the time because it is underpowered. Make sure your exhaust duct is sized properly. Most hoods specify an 8" or 10" diameter duct. There are some hoods that allow a 6" diameter duct, but they're harder to find. The problem with pushing too much air through too small of a duct is that you will get increased noise and decreased efficiency though no fault of the hood. So check your exhaust duct size (if already installed), and match your hood to it, or if still in the construction stage, install the right-sized duct....See MoreBest budget hood options?
Comments (8)Jennifer - I think I mentioned in your other thread that Costco would be a good source for a budget hood. Costco has an excellent return policy too, just in case. I also mentioned that Costco's stock comes and goes. I just checked the website, and they list an Ancona undercabinet hood with baffle filters (much better than mesh filters, but usually baffle filters are found on higher-priced hoods, so a hood with baffle filters for a budget price is a rare find). The website states that the hood comes in 30" and 36" sizes, but it looks like they are out of the 30" size. The 36" size, which is not what you want, sells for $580, so I'd imagine the 30" size is close to your price range. You might try to call Costco customer service number and see if they are getting more in. Try not to get a hood that has low cfms, even though that often happens with a budget hood. A lot of them are 300 cfms which is not very worthwhile (though still better than an OTR MW). Try to get 400-600 cfms. Also, check what is the diameter of your exhaust duct in your kitchen. If you are doing renovation, now would be the time to size up the duct if possible to 7" or 8" for greater exhaust efficiency and less noise. My link below may not go directly to the exact Ancona hood (something with Costco's URLs). If not, search on their website for "Ancona Chef Under Cabinet Range Hood". Here is a link that might be useful: Ancona Chef Under Cabinet Range Hood at Costco...See MoreAngled range hoods / hoods that are not monolithic?
Comments (12)The disadvantage to all these goodlooking hoods is that they don't capture air. The hot air rising from the cooking area. Consider capturing air. And doing so in a way that increases your impression of space. We also have low ceilings (94.5 inches) in a galley kitchen and wanted a wall hood that would not feel massive / use a lot of the visual space. I'll use your thread to introduce my solution, and at some other time I'll put it all into a new thread. It's a small space, landlocked. We figured we'd make it feel big and open by not having any upper cabinets above one of the two counters --- just backsplash and open space above it, using a horizontal mirror on the wall to increase light from the adjacent space and that window about eight feet away. We removed most of the dividing wall between the kitchen and the adjoining windowed area. Above the cooking surface we felt we needed a structure that could hold the slide-out hood we would design. Reading arbordomus' thread from last January gave us both this idea and the other idea described so far, i.e. increasing visual effect by having something attractive over that other counter. Both a technically valid hood solution that took the space it needed, and an over-the-sink solution, light and airy. For the hood wall, a basic low-cost customizable solution was a wall of three 30.375" high Ikea Akurum boxes, with frosted glass doors and fluorescent light bars inside. Light comes from the horizontal base plate on the bottom: you replace each cabinet's OSB floor with a shelf designed for this purpose. The shelf has lighting in it. Then I did the same with each cabinet's top panel, and got more light. Then I added extra fluorescent bars with warm light bulbs to counteract the cold sameness of the IKEA fluorescent light shelving; I put these behind the cabinets, after first pushing the cabinets out from the wall (using spacers) and removing the cabinets' false backing. It's great to have two kinds of fluorescent lighting: a linear sum of white lights. The impact of this white light is WAY more appealing than either one all by itself. It's white light with increased "complexity". The fan is an inline FG6 from fantech.net. It's suspended from the ceiling. Neoprene rings prevents the fan's normal hum or vibration from going straight into the wall of the duct and traveling down the duct. (It's so quiet it probably wouldn't need the neoprene.) The fan is eleven inches in diameter. Eleven inches is available when I install the wall cabinets at 53" height -- and that happens to be pretty much at the "industry" norm of 54" height. In your case you could go with the 15" Akurum wall cabinet and save a lot of money. The fan has a six inch duct. I had the duct turn down and change shape to fit into my wall's stud cavity. A standard duct adaptor / transition piece, readily available in a large hardware store, turns the duct ninety degrees downwards and changes the 6" round duct into a 3.25" deep by X" wide rectangular duct. Here is where I had a guttermaking shop make another adaptor to turn the corner and transform into a wide wide rectangle for me since my wall studs are 24" O. C. apart. This big rectangular duct comes out of the wall at a 45 degree angle under the wall cabinets,at 47.5"- 53" above floor level. I cut this last angle myself since I had the metal shop just make a long straight rectangle and I didn't know yet what distance it would travel; also, I didn't know the precise height it would be installed at, near the ceiling. The filter fits in here. A wall switch gives me three speeds. I tried a few variable speed controls but they cannot match power factor so they create a little hum at low speed, which is not acceptable to me since low speed operation has to be silent for me to accept it. Summary: Blower motor : invisible since it is in an 11" header box above the wall cabinets. Duct: invisible since it's inside the wall. This increases your options for space / visual effects in your wall cabinets. Filter: under the wall cabinets at the mouth of the in-wall duct. Glass pullout: under the wall cabinets. Remember the goal: to increase the visual impact and the impression of space. A header box overhead holds three recessed 50W 12VDC 12.5 degree spotlights shining onto the counter. I removed the magnetic transformer from these recessed halogen cans, and installed a single electronic transformer instead, because I couldn't stand the hum from the magnetic transformers. Each bulb shines onto the counter while also highlighting the wood frame around the frosted glass panels of the wall cabinets. These glass panels are lifted to open, not pivoted out. The lift mechanism is Blum Aventos HF with 104 degree angle stop. The advantage is space and visual effect (again). The wall cabinet doors slide up and fold up. No opening sideways. If you get 15"h Akurum boxes WITH a lift up hinge, you'll save a lot of money and hassle time compared to my 30"h box. The overhead halogens are in a piece of the header that extends far enough out overhead to put the halogens directly above the front edge of the counter. A portion of the header 7"h extends 11" out from the plane of the wall cabinets. This portion was built in a gently curved shape; again to increase the visual impact. When the door panels are lifted up, the halogen light shines through the frosted glass to the counter below. - So far so good. Next step is to finish making the filter (baffle or mesh) and the official sneeze-guard / canopy / grease surface. I got this far by taking my time, so stay tuned and read my next post about this, in six months from now. The filter could be baffle or mesh or both combined. I have stainless steel that I can cut to any shape, and take to have welded together. As sneeze-guard / canopy / grease surface, I have a clear, not frosted, tempered glass plate that I intend to slide out and tilt down on a slight angle. The underside of the wall cabinets will hold the supports for the slider mechanism. Note that this is already made of tempered glass -- but in addition to this I intend to use more glass to make the whole air capture area even more fireproof, cleanable and clean looking. On the wall, I'll cover the drywall with perhaps one entire piece of glass, or epoxy grouted glass tiles, perhaps with some mirror pieces in there. 53" above floor is below-eye level. A glass pullout slider puts the airstopping canopy's front piece at a sneezeguard height and angle. Making it be able to tilt downwards too, solves a number of air flow problems common to ALL the kitchen exhaust fans we see in the market today. Consider how to stop your grease-speck laden air from rising and escaping the capture area. Solving this problem with a high-space visual effect will give you both what you want and what you need. h.t.h. -dr...See Morewilltv
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