sanlynn, weissman is right that the dials of most cooktops go from off to high to low and that most light at high. BUT I THINK I am remembering correctly that Vikings are configured to be continuous from off to low to high. However, they may still light on high. And Definititely, wolf cooktops can light anywhere - not just on High. So, if you want a low flame, zoom right on through to a low setting and arrest the dial there then when the igniter has gone, the gas flow tube is configured at a low. The Wolf also has the double stacked burner where the simmer burner has a separate ignition event than does the main burner. So, again, if you zoom on through the 180 degree point to the proximity of the simmer flame, you will be able to turn on the flame on a simmer setting. I have this cooktop so I do know that this information is correct although if you haven't played with a wolf or another stove with the separate main vs. simmer burner and dial, then what I've said may well sound like double-dutch to you. So if you can test drive the Wolf in person that may behoove you. I know the GE Monogram has the stacked burner too but I don't know what their dial configuration is like. DCS makes Monogram but do DCS stoves have such a burner /dial? I don't know.

I spent quite some time considering a Fretelli Onofri but decided against it ultimately. It is a really cool looking range, and has a lot of features for the money, but the max burner is only 12,000 BTU (11 on propane) and I just couldn't see paying the money to upgrade my range to something no more powerful than what I already had in my $500 GE. It's smallest burner is 3500 BTU, so I am guessing that it should easily get low enough to simmer satisfactorily. I'm not sure if these burners have low flame controls, but I think most do. With this you can adjust how low the flame goes with a screwdriver. Bluestar has it and it works great (That's what I bought). Download the owners manual from FO and see if it's mentioned.

Well, we found out what the problem was. I was going to try to upload a photo to help explain the problem, but apparently that's not possible on this forum. It was not the lower left burner that was the problem, but the middle, back burner, which is also the next largest burner. The round piece that sits on the stove top is supposed to be flat. Ours was ever so slightly warped, which allowed gas to seep out. We had noticed that when the middle burner was on low simmer, it would keep clicking meaning there was not enough gas going to the burner, resulting in the automatic starter constantly "clicking." The reason there was not enough gas going to the burner was because some was leaking from the warped "flange" resting on the stove top. That gas would build up because there was not enough flame to light it. It would build up and apparently float over to the big burner where it would catch all at once resulting in the "explosion." When the large burner was on full blast, it probably burned off the little bit of gas seeping out. But when on simmer, I guess it allowed enough to collect (under pots?) until there was enough to catch. The repair guy took the flange off and flattened it out with a mallet and a piece of wood and screwed it back on. It is now flush to the stovetop. The middle burner can be on low simmer without clicking because all the gas is going to the burner. None should seep out toward the large burner. The tech guy is also ordering a new part. I don't know if any of this made any sense. The technician had never seen this before so he felt like he had learned something. Me too. Hope this is of some help to someone. Thanks for replying. BTW, we use natural gas.

Had this issue with my Wolf 5 -burner cooktop. Certain burners did not put out any gas on simmer mode, worked fine with the full burner mode. No help online, I took things apart to take a look and compare to burners that did simmer fine. Turns out there is a tiny nozzle in a recessed ring used for the simmer mode, under 1mm wide. Gets clogged easily with things spilling over. I used a sturdy twist tie wire after removing the plastic to poke through and scrape clean the clogged nozzles. Hope that helps others with the same issue!