OP-To see if the drawers can be adjusted enough to suit you try one yourself. Attached is a picture. From the looks of your level they are just a little beyond the built in adjustment. Naturally doors will also need to be adjusted and at some point if things are seriously off it will show in the reveal at the bottom of the cabinets. A careful installer should be able to "cheat" reveals so things don't look bad. Within the adjustment available there will be no impact on performance or longevity of the glides. Since you already have hardware installed adjusting drawerheads to boxes would be a headache and less than ideal. Should they be off that much? -NO. Is it a big problem?-with overlay cabinets not really but it is if you feel it is. Will it affect the counter installation over time?- Tre or someone else could better answer that but if the stone is fully supported over its' length I don' see why. Better than a shim every 3 ft IMO. Where/who is the problem?-First and foremost the cabinet installer - the job is to install plumb, level and square, then the counter installer AND the GC. . Why not the mfg?- it is all too easy to rack cabinets during installation. It is also easy to straighten slight imperfections in installation (especially on pocket hole cabinets). That is the installers job- install plumb level and square. Example- I handle two better brands of inset cabinets. One is doweled together the other is mortise and tenon. They always come dead straight and square. The cabinet is stiff compared to a pocket hole cabinet. The M&T cabinet has only an 1/8" reveal and mortised hinges that allow very little adjustment. I warn installers that they must back installation screws completely with shims and not to over torque them. Every now and then I get a call that the cabinet door is rubbing. I go to the job levels in hand and something is always off. Most of the time all that is needed is to relieve the pressure on one or two screws, shim it and gently tighten it back up. Voila reveal magically is straight and true. Levels- I'm with Mongrel on this- the only 4 ft I own is a masonry level that I wouldn't allow near a cabinet. I keep an ok torpedo, and quality 16" , 2', 3' and 6' (along with two on my phone, one on the tablet and a bubble lippage level for tile.) As a homeowner I use the 2 and 6 most. As a KD the 16" lives in my "go visit bag". When I pull up to the home during installation the 16, a tape measure, and notebook go with me. The 6 ft comes along on measures, when a problem is brought up, or during installation if I didn't see one there to begin with. Why should I have to check? as noted above even just a glorified cabinet salesman I need a couple of reliable levels at my disposal all the time. If your KD is not as pissy as me; then yes, you WANT to be able to check things. Folks are often asking here what to check BEFORE ordering or signing, well there are things worth checking DURING...It is a lot easier to take care of issues before completion than after. No one is perfect and you end up paying for it and living with it. If money is tight send DH to buy it, be careful with whatever packaging, then when done, go back and return it. You can have fun making up a story that DH is all thumbs and was nuts to buy it :) First run around the house and check a few things just for fun. oops, forgot to include adjustment info for you. This post was edited by jakuvall on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 13:20

Anything that is applied topically has the potential for being overwhelmed by moisture. And yes, you are correct that the moisture content won't change because the slab is still 'holding' onto the moisture. Absolutely correct on that one. Did the ENTIRE BASEMENT receive the treatment? If not, it won't work. Imagine trying to keep a small portion (size of a penny) of a sponge dry by placing a penny sized piece of plastic on top of the sponge. Now float that sponge in a sink full of water. How long will it take the tiny piece of plastic to become 'useless'? Not very long. Water finds the path of least resistance. It will move up/around/sideways and over top of anything in its way. The only way to keep 'office' area dry is to treat the entire basement. Yep. The ENTIRE thing. And that's assuming the SHOT BLASTING and the EPOXY and the PRIMING and the MICROTOPPING are done using an epoxy specialist. A 'good coat' of sealant is probably not going to work. The DIY level of coatings from HD (et al) are some of the epoxy specialist's best friends. These topical products make the professionals a whole heap of money. Because they are called in to 'remove' (ie. spend more time removing the bad 'fix') and then fix the topical sealant that was originally applied. It gains them another $1-$2/sf for the job. They like it (but hate it at the same time...they wish people would simply call them first). In your situation, the BEST solution (warm underfoot) is carpet. I know you don't want that, but it is the honest truth. Carpet and its pad are BREATHABLE materials. Believe it or not, that is the BEST THING for a slab with moisture issues (not 'standing water'....but water vapour moving up through the slab). The water will always have a place to go...which is into the air. It will not be 'trapped'. Trapped water means potential for mold growth. I would go with a low-pile berber with an appropriate pad (most berbers don't need them...but some will accept them) for now. Carpet is cheap to purchase and cheap to install. It is cheap to remove and cheap to dispose of. If you are not overly concerned/pressed to fix the issue, then carpet is your best friend. To get down any other type of flooring (and NOT have mold/mildew issues) you will NEED to fix then entire basement slab with the professional shot blasting/epoxy/primer/microtopping routine.

Household ammonia is an aqueous nitrogen-based solution. It consists of five to 10 percent ammonium hydroxide (NH3) in water, often with added detergents. I would read the label and it should show the concentration. I believe 5% is the most common. If you find 10% then just cut the amount in half. Straight out of the bottle both ammonia and vinegar (5% acetic acid) will kill foliage. I use a 1/3 concentration of ammonia and don't have any problem with it harming foliage. It is overkill for killing slugs, but I look at the mild fertilizing benefit as better with the higher concentration (5% concentration Ammonia). I have a half gallon sprayer and it goes pretty far. The most important thing to do in spraying is to spray around the base of the hosta and all around on the ground under the leaves, any piles of leaves, mulch, any place they hide during the day.

All you who have installed The Natural, does the painted bevel bother you? On the sample, I borrowed from the showroom, the painted bevel doesn't blend with the color of the flooring as well as other Provenza LVT in the Moda Line. The bevel stands out and looks like a distinct line. Im about to purchase so Im just curious if this is something you dont see once its installed on a large scale.