I know that this is an old thread. I'm currently about to install a Fulgor 30" induction cooktop. My cooktop also has a shield (mine is non movable) running the full width of the unit, but they call it a baffle, I believe for a good reason. A baffle effectively blocks or reduces the ability for hot air expulsed from the bottom rear of the metal box (see photo) from traveling directly into the intake located at the bottom front. I have seen this same solution used in sleeve type air conditioners which suck fresh air in from the left hand rear of the unit and exhaust it from the right hand rear. Calling that metal plate a shield is misleading unless its intent is to prevent a cabinet shelf or drawer from being vertically too close to the bottom of the metal box. I doubt that this is the case as a full cabinet ceiling high enough to touch the bottom of the baffle plate would effectively divide the air space below the metal box into two sealed separate cavities with little possibility for warm air exiting the back side of the unit to find an easy path back into the intake on the front side of the unit. If the cabinet has all its drawers and/or doors closed, then the only way for the hot air generated by the cooktop to cool down before being re-introduced back into the unit is for the air to transfer its heat to the adjacent cabinet walls which can conduct the heat to the connected structures. So surface area of the walls of the under cooktop air cavity is the key to keeping the electronics cool. And that can't happen if the cavity directly below the cooktop is too limited in surface area which would touch a structural mass (cabinet walls, cabinet floors) which can wick the heat away. Drawers full of cutlery provide no means for heat to be continually absorbed. My installation guide calls for an under cooktop clearance of 2-1/4" (1-1/4" in Canada) and the baffle plate height is only 1" high, so that leaves a minimum clearance between the nearest horizontal surface of 1-1/4" (1/4" in Canada) below the bottom edge of the baffle plate. A 1" high baffle plate insures that air which travels from the bottom rear of the metal box to the bottom front must come in contact with a cooler surface where some of the heat can be conducted away. At first I thought that minimum under unit clearance had something to do with not wanting a metal box containing electricity to come within a minimum distance of a combustible cabinet material like hardwood or melamine. But the technician from the company assured me that the minimum distance has nothing to do with any fire code but is all about insuring proper opportunity for the warm air generated by electronics to adequately cool down. My cabinet which comes from Germany (see photo) has a 13-1/2" by 30" opening in the cabinet ceiling. With my cooktop being placed on a countertop 3" above this partially open ceiling, my metal box arrives an one eighth of an inch above the part of the cabinet ceiling which is not open. I will have to cut into some of this partial ceiling so that the two metal box vent holes are not blocked. After doing the cutouts, these two vent holes in the metal box will be able circulate air located in the 4 cubic foot volume existing above the top shelf of my 2 shelf cabinet.

The GE Monogram requires 12" space underneath and most of the others don't. The Thermador, Miele, and Bosch have cook timers that turn off. The GE Monogram and Electrolux do not turn off. They all have different size elements so you can see which configuration works for you. Some of the models (Thermador,, Bosch) has direct touch for the heat level you want. Others you have to tap tap tap to get to the number (Monogram actually is touch and hold, and Miele I forget.) Electrolux I THINK is tap tap tap but not sure. (I did all this last month and am looking at my notes) I am confused about Power Boost but I wrote these notes when going through the user manuals. Maybe someone can clear this up??? Thermador: other in zone has to be off Miele: Booster Power share Bosch: other in zone has to be off Monogram: Power Share if other is off Electrolux: Power Share-- other DOESN'T have to be off. Is that correct? Another thing is how long the burner will stay on if you remove a pan from the element (like for shaking the pan around). Again, This is what I wrote from the manual but you should double check. I'm not guaranteeing any info : ) Thermador: 90 seconds Miele: Pan Remove 3 minutes Bosch: Doesn't Specify Monogram: 30 seconds Electrolux: 3 minutes

Free standing 36" Gas (not dual fuel) 4 burner plus griddle convection oven/range. Monster. There were thermadors I had experience with that were 15 years old and never a problem. So, during a remodel of my current home, I bought another one. Loved it, bought it, regret it now. Of course, I didn't do my research before jumping and buying another Thermador. That was my big mistake, and boy am I wearing it. Boyyyyyyyy am I wearing it. . . . . . Come to find out I'm not the only one now with a very, very expensive "heap." (grin) Guess I'm now one of thousands and thousands of people who made this mistake. Don't get me wrong - monster wonderful range. Awesome centerpiece. . .when it works! Does everything with amazing speed, and wonderful lines, beautiful style, a dream to cook on! But gawd forbid if you need service. You are in for a terrible, terrible experience. And of course, when you need service is when you are under pressure. Like ohhhhhhhhhhhhh, thanksgiving? (grin) That was just the latest adventure. Delivery damaged it. They "crushed" it like a tin box with the straps (unboxed it to get it through the only functioning door.) Getting replacement panels was a horrendous problem. Months and months. That was my first indication that there were going to be issues. Then one board went, then another circuit board went, and now another board seems to have gone out. (I suspect the same circuit board, again.) No "certified" technicians in the area, either. Search on their site, and there aren't any qualified service people within 120 miles. Search for dealers, and there are 12 within 25 miles. Have a sub zero fridge (known cooler issue), and a bosch dishwasher (known motor problem, fixed immediately). When both needed service, I had not a single problem. Quick, knowledgable, efficient. The complete opposite of my Thermador experience. Had I known, I would have gone with a Wolf or a Viking. All options being about equal in that price range, I liked the lines and style of the Thermador better and went on prior experience. Just understand, if you choose Thermador, you are rolling the dice. Want to know what is really angering? As I was sarcastically laughing last time about the $700.00 circuit board, saying that I should have gone with a Wolf or a Viking, the repair person told me that Viking and Wolf parts are readily available here, at a fraction of the cost. He even told me Viking parts are available from Sears. Pouring salt into an already open wound. Ohhhhhhhhhhhwuh! Thanks a lot! (grin)

trove: My Miele odor comment was intended as a zinger directed at Miele due to various complaints on this forum about dishwasher odor (probably not confined just to Miele). Some who have looked into this in depth have recently blamed it on humidity acting on microscopic food particles not flushed by the dishwashing process, and on dirty liquid in the dishwasher plumbing left over after operation. I know I have had odor problems at times with my Optima, but due to onset of winter have to wait until summer to try to verify whether either cause of blame is consistent with my observations. Miele has to conform to European laws relating to energy efficiency, and this also affects water usage. It may be that old style American dishwashers remained more sanitary in humid conditions after their drying cycle. I don't recall odor from childhood dishwashers, but I think my family's dishwasher was run more often than my Miele. kas