Crumbly mud pan - help me mongo-wan-kenobi
brian78
11 years ago
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brian78
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Sheet mulching / Lasagna gardening is Anti-Green Living
Comments (65)hellerlake wrote ... "The arborist's chips I have gotten always came full of shredded leaves and/or needles which begin to break down immediately. There's plenty of nitrogen/organics. As for mulched beds that have not loosened up, what were they mulched with? Bark? Bark is naturally imbued with a waxy substance to protect the tree from moisture. It's suberized. It never really breaks down, and incorporates into the soil because of the suberization. Eventually, it breaks down into waxy, little fibers that form a crust on top of the soil. " An arborist friend once had a 25' tall birch tree-spade moved to his front yard. To start, the hole was half where the lawn was, and half in shrub bed that was never rototilled - same soil to start - but had a barkdust layer maintained for at least 10 years. The half circle in the lawn when dug, was pretty much unchanged. But old bark had decomposed enough to improve the bed soil. Down to 12" depth it was darkened some, and crumbled. It was handy to have seen the side-by-side comparison where the soil history was known, to see the change on the bark side, versus the lawn compacted by mower tires and bag weight side. Sometimes I've applied both. The last home in south Oregon, I put down about 8 truck loads of the chipped tree branches first, then laid barkdust on top for a more groomed look. 20 years ago, when we got about 30 big truckloads at my mother's 2nd acre in Beaverton, the wood chips with plenty of branch wood broke down pretty quick, which was nice. Thought it may be worth adding ... One golf course superintendent I worked under at Columbia Edgewater Country club in Portland, some year back, used to add fine barkdust to the sand for some of the new greens. It was because they decomposed - but decomposed slowly. The new greens were about 3% to 5% bark and the rest sand. His education was in agronomy. From what I've seen since then, the method makes sense....See MoreHelp! Grout Discoloration on New Shower Floor
Comments (61)I've tiled my own two bathrooms and my kitchen backsplash, so when my adult daughter's shower sprung a leak at her "new" (circa 1950) home, DH & I came to the rescue. Ripped out the whole tub surround (it gave up without a fight), fixed the plumbing, reinsulated, added backerboard, taped, mudded and commenced to tiling. Got complicated around the tub; being an old steel tub, it has about a 1" flange around the top edges as though it's supposed to bolt to something? We ran the backerboard down to within 1/4th" of that flange, did the tape /mud/dry time thing and then commenced to tiling. When I got to the grout, I must say, the grout was a tad drier than I'd liked for it to be, but I worked quickly and thought I'd done okay. We spaced the bottom row of tile to cover that backerboard/flange gap, which it did okay. Then I left my daughters to finish grouting the normal 1/4th gap around the edge of the tub. I would have used caulk, but since the gap varied some, the girls used the regular grout to finish off that bottom edge and the corners. Are you with me so far? It looked really nice. Now I notice a lot of little tiny cracks in the grout all over and I'm thinking I'll be okay to just smash in another coat of it. (She hasn't used any tile sealer, yet.) EXCEPT.........she called tonite to say the whole bottom row of that grout is soaking wet, coming out in big soggy clumps and some of the tile with it. My thoughts are that she didn't let the tile cure enough before going in and using it, so now we need to pull out all the soggy stuff and redo it from there. So, the questions are: did we handle the backerboard/tile/grout around that flange right? Or is there just enough movement in a steel tub to disallow a grout (vs caulk) to flex. If that makes any sense.......And the second question is: am I on the right track to fix it? How long does it REALLY take for tile to cure enough to take a shower? Please tell me I don't have to take down this whole job.....this is a single mother with a TEENAGE daughter who will just DIE if she doesn't get to shower. Thanks for reading this far............. mm...See MoreOther Moisture Barriers Besides Kerdi for Shower
Comments (30)Thank you Mongo for the explanation. It came just in time. I just had two other tile guys come in today and YOU WILL NOT BELILEVE...okay you pros out there probably will believe...what I heard today. When I mentioned what the original installer said, I think David you called it laziness, Mongo you called it uneducated. Here's what I found out. I had two additional tile installers out today. I was still not hearing what I wanted to hear when I asked for details about their process, esp. regarding the moisture barriers behind the cement board and the membrane on the shower pan floor. The last guy seemed very knowledgeable and I said to myself, I've got to come on out and just point blank ask because I am not getting anywhere. He said the same thing about cement board as the previous guy, but at least HE mentioned, taping those seams of the cement board with a mesh strip and thin setting it. So far so good. I asked about some other moisture barrier for the framing before cement board. He said they use a poly liner thing behind the cement board on the exterior wall. They don't normally do it on any other wall but they could... no problem. He mentioned some of the new boards that are lighter and made of foam, but he said they don't use them. Same deal, unproven and he would prefer cement in his own home. We talked about the shower pan membrane and he too talked about sand mix, membrane, build slope and tile. I finally came out and said, "I read somewhere the membrane should be put on a slope or something." He said we generally do it flat but what you are talking about is the pre-slope. He KNEW ALL ABOUT IT! What he said next floored me. He said yes in the Highland Park area we do a preslope. They have million dollar homes there. Not to say your house is not nice, but that area has more restrictions. Mongo, David and Bill...he described the steps just like you said...I guess my less than million dollar house didn't warrant the "correct" installation technique. :-( He even said why it is better to put it on the preslope, but I guess "cheap" houses don't get the extra steps. LOL I asked him about the membrane placement and he described what I had seen in the Harry Dunbar website. He did say he goes up about 8" on the walls, not 12 inches. He did say doing the preslope would make the shower pan area higher, but I told him I did not have a problem with that as long as the membrane was on the preslope. He did not have any problem doing it, but I am sure it will be reflected in the estimate he gives me. :-( Thought you guys would be interested in what I found out today. Thank you so much. I definitely will not be using the first guy....See MoreHelp Please-grout cracking/tile separating in new bathroom
Comments (9)Curb movement like that is typically from a wood-built curb (stacked 2-by lumber, for example) that is absorbing moisture and expanding/swelling. How is moisture getting to the curb? Could be one of several things. Not sure how conscientious the installer was in terms of making sure the shower pan membrane is sloped (versus laying the membrane flat on a flat subfloor), or how he detailed the membrane over the curb. It's possible there are nails through the top or inside faces of the curb (and thus through the membrane) and moisture is getting through the nail holes. It's possible that he built you a perfect curb but used wet pressure-treated wood and the PT wood is warping as it dries. Or your house is on a slab, and he put the wood right on the slab. Moisture through the slab is causing the wood curb to expand. So it could be one of several things. It should be fairly easy to diagnose though, as the tiles are popping off on the outside face of the curb. They'll have to be removed eventually to diagnose and repair. When they are removed, take a look to see what's in there. Post photos if you can. To give you a bit of an education as to how a typical CPE-membraned shower with a wood curb is built, check out Harry's pictorial. Note that Harry's membrane is "draped" over the wood curb. That there are no nails/screws on the top or inside face of the curb. That the lathe (wire mesh) is bent in a "U" shape and it's simply the inverted "U" bends that hold it over the curb. Again, there are no fasteners through the lathe and into the top or inside face of the curb. I have seen instances where the membrane gets draped over the wood curb, then the installer nails cement board on the three faces of the curb and tiles on the cement board. Not good. Again, nails through the membrane on the top and inside face are a no-no. I don't see screws through the bottom track of your door frame that go into the curb. That's good. Best, Mongo...See Moreselphydeg
11 years agoMongoCT
11 years agobrian78
11 years agobrian78
11 years agoMongoCT
11 years ago
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