I'm worried that you're even giving him an opportunity to respond ... just be sure neither of you BUYS whatever he comes up with as an excuse (for the delays, the absence of communication, lack of professionalism and integrity in selling your cabinets without discussing that option with you and BEFORE even beginning work on your job, and the utterly unacceptable and unprofessional nature of his email response to you about them). Even if there were a genuine miscommunication about the cabinets and the bid figure (which I don't think there was!), the rest (delays, attitude, etc.) should be sufficient RED FLAGS to cut ties with this guy. There is no response he could possibly make at this point that ought to lift those flags from your mind... or your husband's. And you ought NOT move forward with those flags flying!! So just don't be tempted to!!

The Johnson kits are pretty decent, but I never use the 'pre-framed' ones. I build out a thicker wall (about the same as a wet wall). This allows electrical boxes to be installed. Johnson has a number of different ratings on the hardware. The 111PD line is more than adequate for most interior doors and keeps the track under 1.25 inches wide. One of the 'tricks' is to never mount the track directly to a weight bearing header. The header should be moved up a few inches, then a section of 2x mounted with clearance from the header, and the track attached to the 2x. This is not required in non-weight bearing walls, but avoiding any sag in a weight bearing header will ensure the pocket hardware functions for a long time. The only other problem I encounter is the plastic tabs used to prevent the door from swinging. They tend to scratch the portions of the door that rub against them. I put aluminum angle in the bottom of the pocket and cut a matching groove on the bottom of the door. If the groove is stopped before the 'show' edge of the door it cannot be seen. Another trick for panel doors is to add a strip of wood to the pocket edge the same thickness as the door and about 1-2 inches wide. This allows the full width of the door to be used while leaving some in the pocket for noise and swing control. Adding a stop on the non-pocket jamb also helps with sound and blocks sight (if you really want to reduce sound 'brush seals' or even felt seals around the door can help). The split trim jamb on the top of the door should be mounted with screws (on at least one side). You will need to remove it to get the door off the bogies. Trim head square drive screws provide a good option here. Pocket door hardware is definitely finish carpentry, not framing. Make sure you have the correct kind of carpenter.

Looking at bbdf's mock-ups made me realize something: I forgot to add spacers between wall and cab for the cab next to the DW in Plan D. You'll lose at least 3 inches and perhaps as much as 5", depending on door and door handle depth from this cab. If you don't allow for door and door handle depth, you won't be able to open the drawers because they'll hit the fridge door or door handle. Same will be true if you do doors instead of drawers. That means that the cab next to the DW in my Plan D could be as narrow as 15.5". Looking back at the plan posted in your OP, it doesn't look like the drawing (created by the cab maker?) included spacers between wall and cab to allow for the fridge door and handles. That's a big uh-oh. So I went back to bbdf's #7 option and one of LL's lay-out suggestion for fridge placement. I think it's the best solution for your kitchen and one you should revisit. Yes, it takes a bigger bite out of the budget but there are ways to accomplish this without breaking the budget. For instance, choose inexpensive backsplash tile and laminate or wood counters instead of stone (wood would look very true to your kitchen's age, IMO). You can always update finishes later but it's not nearly as easy to update lay-out and function later for minimal investment. Plus you can opt to do the full plan in stages as budget allows. You can either opt for the wider opening and fridge location as bbdf drew up in her post of Wed, Nov 12, 14 at 23:01 or you can remove the wall completely. You'll need to install a beam for either option but moving the doorway and recessing the fridge will require new headers so the cost difference may not be as great as you think to widen the entry or remove the wall completely. Widening the doorway or losing the wall will also open up the view to your backyard from your kitchen, which you only get through the one window now. If you choose the lose the wall between kitchen and laundry area: You gain 4.5" to use along the sink wall (I'm assuming based on the age of your home that it's 2x4 construction, not 2x6 construction). I butted the fridge up against the existing upper cabs (you plan on keeping them, right?). I allocated 39" of width for your existing 36" wide fridge and a surrounding cabinet. Depending on cab construction, that could change by an inch or so. In case you missed it, this plan allows you to keep your existing fridge, which is money you can put towards widening the opening or removing that wall. With the fridge next to the sink run cabs, you don't lose cab storage between fridge and DW. I added a cab with counter across from the fridge. I estimated its height, based on where the window sill is compared to the back door handle. This could be as far as you take the plan for now, keeping existing W/D closet in place. Or you can remove the W/D closet, stack the W/D at the far end (I realize the ceiling slopes but unless it's lower than 6' 6", you should have room to stack the W/D units) and add a 30.5" wide pantry between W/D and fridge. This would give you loads of storage for broom, mop, kitty litter, pantry goods, small appliances, etc. Across from it, I added another 30" high counter above kitty litter pan alcove, dog feeding station, etc. The W/D could be visible, as they are in this kitchen: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/san-francisco-white-kitchen-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~602970) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by New Holland Kitchen & Bath Designers Rutt Regency Cabinetry Or you can put them behind cab doors like they are in these two kitchens: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/chelsea-home-renovation-transitional-dining-room-atlanta-phvw-vp~6950087) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Ridgewood Architects & Building Designers TerraCotta Studio Now you see it [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/cow-hollow-residence-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~43688) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by San Francisco Interior Designers & Decorators Amoroso Design Now you don't [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/cow-hollow-residence-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~43687) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by San Francisco Interior Designers & Decorators Amoroso Design I changed the small bistro table to a fold-down table attached to the wall. Fold it up when you need it, fold it out of the way when you don't. This will make accessing the buffet storage and side cabs much easier, plus the beauty of that buffet will no longer be blocked by a table. This is the idea but not the execution of what I envision for your kitchen. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/alterman-eclectic-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~2948642) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Jersey City Design-Build Firms Brunelleschi Construction [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/alterman-eclectic-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~2948640) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Jersey City Design-Build Firms Brunelleschi Construction This style is more what I have in mind for your kitchen: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/exterior-traditional-minneapolis-phvw-vp~352298) [Traditional Spaces[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-home-design-ideas-phbr1-bp~s_2107) by Edina General Contractors John Kraemer & Sons bmorepanic did something like this in her even-smaller-than-yours kitchen but I can't seem to find links to her old kitchen threads (her kitchen was finished several years ago) nor does her kitchen show up in the FKB. She still posts periodically so you could always give her a shout-out asking her to show you her table. As with my Plan D, I moved the range to the left to give you more counter between sink and range. The upper cab to the left of the range would have hinges on the front (facing the kitchen) and side (facing the DR doorway) so that you can access items from either side. Shoot, I can't find the example of this that I had in mind on houzz right now. Pretty sure a GWer (maybe beekeeperswife) has done this so you could also ask for examples of this. Anyhoo, having it open on 2 sides means that you won't lose things in the back reaches of a fairly narrow cabinet. Or you can just have it open to the side and put a false panel on the front. Oops, I forgot to note that the sink cab is 30". I think a 30" apron front sink would be period appropriate. This post was edited by lisa_a on Mon, Nov 17, 14 at 12:59

I am so sorry. We had something similar happen with our framing, except there was no discussion about it beforehand - they just made a mistake. When the mistake was realized (shamefully for them, I was the one that noticed it - not the framers or GC!) we first consulted with the architect to determine what exactly was going to change internally as a result of the roof changes they made, then went back to the framers and negotiated a discount to keep it mostly the way they built it (they had to change a few things to be per-plan but not everything). I would follow a similar path if I were in your shoes. Get a FULL list of outcomes from this roof change. If you (and the code officer) can accept them, negotiate a discount on your framing cost. I don't think it even matters that you verbally approved the change. He also verbally told you that it would not cause internal changes and he was dead wrong, so you only agreed to that kind of change, not the change you got. And try to look at it this way. Your house isn't wrong just because they didn't follow the plans perfectly - it's unique!