Actually that's not my experience. Depending on the hardness and ph of your water (distilled is best), it may not be wise to melt the wax in hot water and let it float and cool and solidify. Bees wax melts in the 150° range. I melt my wax in a double boiler arrangement (never melt wax directly over a burner, and then pour it into a hot bow, taller is better than narrow. It can also have some pure water, very hot in the bowl all ready. You should pour it through a metal strainer (I don't use nylon for this, although I do for honey. I think the hot wax could do a number on nylon) to catch the bees and large junk in the wax. When it cools without stirring, the water will be on the bottom, then the junk, then the pure wax on the top. The wax shrinks slightly when it solidifies so it's easy to remove. On the bottom of the wax, next to the water, is the junk, a thin layer that can be cut away. And that's why a tall narrow container for cooling is better. The junk is then limited to the narrower area of the diameter. I've even used 1" cheapie flexible pvc pipe with a removable cap on one end, in lengths about 12"-16" long. It makes a long TALL tube and it's easy to remove the bottom 1/4" that has the impurities in it.

my3apples, I've honed a carrara top using the powder, made into a paste. Now when I want to remove an etch, I use a sanding sponge--an old one that has most of the 'grit' worn off, with a bit of water. Make sure you start with a high grit sponge, or better yet, get two, and rub them together until they are fairly smooth. ***Warning, first use this method on a sample piece, or in an out-of-the-way area.*** My top has a slight, hand-polished sheen, so I rub until it blends. In my experience, the longer the sanding time, the higher the sheen. I've also wet-sanded with 600 grit paper. Again, try it on a sample first. Now, if anyone has a hint about how to get rid of star dings, please let me know. My younger daughter (24yrs old) was playing with three of those hematite-type chatter magnets, and dropped them on the island counter. The marks look just like Orion's belt. Kids :[

I have an entire houseful of woodwork to darken due to new wood floors. I have no cash left to pay a pro to redo everything or to replace all of the doors and trim in my home. Therefore, I am on my own. Everyone has said something true, and I have experienced it all. I am starting to get acceptable results now. Not acceptable to a "pro", but acceptable to folks I know who are aware, picky and share honest feedback. I've tried this and "Howards Restore-a-Finish". The Restore a finish is nice, but is not affecting the color much, and getting a redder hue is what I am after. I have a door and a cabinet I will lkely re0do. But the rest is turning out quite well. I will share what I have learned so far: - Experiment before starting the big job. I tried rubbing the minwax and brushing. Brushing is the best for me. - Clean your surface well (duh). I use a sponge with a ScotchBrite backing to gain surface grip for the minwax (I simply do not have the time to remove all doors and work them horizontally) - This stuff is too thick and sets too fast. To overcome this I work one thing at a time to "completion". Example: one cabinet door, one coat at a time. - I use small amounts in a separate container (don't paint directly out of the minwax can as I started doing. WRONG!!!). - Your brush will quickly become your worst enemy. Frequently clean your brush with paint thinner. - Find a brush you are comfortable with. I have settled into 1.5" width max. - I use thinner liberally and frequently on my brush. Keeping the brush cleared with thinner keeps the minwax flowing thinner, better, and more consistently; plus, it keeps the minwax wetter longer. I am able to easily work the surface (a vertical door jamb for example) top to bottom. - Don't stop to chat on the phone and then come back into your section you were working on. Guaranteed problems. You must your finish your section. - Last, but not least, take your time. The last thing I may try is actually thinning the minwax with thinner, but I don't know if I will go there now that my results are so much improved. Good luck!!

Sue a man's elec shaver is safe. It is what we use in our family. My dermatologist was very serious about NOT pulling out hairs, he mentioned infections. After I shave with an elec shaver, I use a safety razor on my chin to get closer. My hair grows very fast. A young lady was complaining about having to shave her legs. A couple of older women said I don't have to do that anymore. The young lady said that something good about aging. I laughed and said, all that hair that was only your legs comes back on your chin. You should have seen her face.