Anyone use MinWax Polyshades?
dixiedo
18 years ago
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powermuffin
18 years agodixiedo
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Minwax Polyshades Question
Comments (2)I've used it hundreds of times with success each time. Presently, I'm converting a golden oak stairway to a provincial oak finish. Looks great! You can also use the One Step products by Varathane. It's a very simple, easy process if you have some painting skills. Follow directions and you should be quite satisfied. Michael Here is a link that might be useful: One Step...See MoreHas anyone used polyshades for their Kitchen cubards?
Comments (14)Here goes. (no I didn't use the tsp, HD told me I needed that if I painted). I used Minwax Gel Stain in Walnut and semi-gloss Polyurethane. First you have to remove the doors. DonÂt fight it just take them off. Clean them really well. Years of grease and dust. I didnÂt sand. If I had to do it again I would consider applying a dark primer (maybe black since my stain is so dark). I used a sponge brush to apply and a regular brush to spread. It worked better for me. If you have real wood, apply the stain heavily with the sponge, wait a few minutes, then wipe off with a rag. The more coats you do the darker it gets. If you have wood/plastic or whatever it is that they make cheap builder cabinets from then: Apply the stain heavily and as even as possible with the sponge brush. Wait probably about 5-6 minutes. Then using a dry brush, make even straight strokes. This will even out the stain. You can keep brushing until it looks good to you. Sometimes I needed a second coat but not heavy just really a light coat with the sponge. Then I applied two coats of polyurethane. This was the fun part because you canÂt mess it up. ItÂs clear! I highly recommend that you practice somewhere. The more you practice the better you get. I did my master bath. then started on my kitchen and didnÂt get my technique down until halfway thru my cabs. I just hope it lasts and doesnÂt chip. Some ladies here told me that the poly takes about a month to cure (to make it strong). So be careful with them. Also be careful when you tape your walls. As I removed the tape, it pulled some of the stain from the cabs. I have to retouch. DonÂt use tape or come up with a different plan. I hope I answered all the questions. I hope to post finished pics next week. Mariana...See MorePolyshades - what to do?????
Comments (2)The problem with polyshades is that it is a pigment tinted surface finish. It is a real PITA to get it to go on any large object uniformly. You have to be sure the pigment is mixed uniformly and stays that way. If you apply another coat you apply more pigment also. Staining and then applying top coats seperately is stil a better way to go. You only have one thing going on at a time. I prefer aniline dye for all wood coloring indoors. The water based dye is resonably lightfast and the color is easily manipulated. It can even be removed in most cases if you want to (dilute clorox) without a lot of damage to the wood. You can get just baout any color you want, and even mix colors. I often mix even the common colors from the base colors....See Morewooden ceiling, shiplap pine, Minwax Polyshades?
Comments (1)I do not like any single application wood finish---all of them are compromises. I stain and finish trim for houses all the time---emphasis on the two steps. In your case, you could use a roller for the stain and the finish application---that makes the process much faster. Using an oil based stain requires a 24 hour drying time. Some water based stains need less and alcohol based even less yet. If you could find an alcohol based stain and use shellac as the finish, it is possible you could stain and apply two coats of shellac in one day---even at 50 degrees---adding a small heater would help. A woodworking store like Woodcraft or Rocklers will have those products....See Morepowermuffin
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