Fudgie: The paint color on the cabinets is Ben Moore Ivory White. The paint itself isn't Ben Moore (it's a pre-cat Lacquer that the cabinet maker sprayed on) but we match that color. It is the trim color we use around the house. There was some concern during planning that it would be to yellow - turns out we think it's perfect. sallybeth: We are really enjoying the Sub-zeros. Some people prefer the racks and look of the european fridges (i.e. Miele) but these suit us well. We went with the door and drawer options over the single column as we think it's easier to just open a drawer when you need it - plus you can open the large door with children around and not have them immediately crawl into the fridge (an issue around our house...) The wine cooler had a rattle after it was first installed, I called the "white glove" service group and they came out the next day. While it really only needed a quick spot weld to secure a coolant line that was vibrating, they replaced the entire compressor assembly - pretty impressive. The same service folks are coming out to ensure our ovens and grill / griddle are well calibrated (seems like the ovens are a little lower than the set temp and the grill is a little uneven.) Nit picky stuff, but they haven't raised an eyebrow at my requests. Next day appointments too. Impressive stuff! Crafterbeth: Thanks for the suggestions, I'm looking forward to diving into the backyard once the thaw comes! I still owe all of you final (with backsplash) photos. Still looking for a time to get the kitchen clean and empty for some shots. I haven't forgotten!

Buehl, In the US the premium line is called Regal. Here, in Canada, it is called 'Collection'- which is what I use. For our Master BR (which should be drywalled this weekend), I'm planning on using the Aura paints which are literally just available this month here. So, the colours you have been given can be made up in the premium or in the regular line. Definitely go premium, which is Regal. When you think of how much everything has cost, this is NOT the place to save $10! (As you probably know! :>) The better paints are easier to use, as they cover better- I ALWAYS have to use two coats and sometimes three if I'm changing colours. As you may have learned on the painting forum, be sure to cut in first, let it dry, and then roll. Cut in again for the second coat- I thought I could save this step- but the work is in the masking off, so once that labor intensive job has been done, you may as well cut twice! I can cut close to the ceiling without making too much of a mark, but it's when I roll up there, that I make paint marks on my masking tape, so it's important that I take the time to mask all my ceilings! We have Lennox Tan for most of the upstairs, and I'm thinking of Hampshire Gray for the Master (though there may be new colours available in the Aura). I'm planning on doing a faux finish with the crown molding to make it really rich (well, that's the idea!) Our trim is all Cloud White, which is a gorgeous white- I'm using Impervo which looks great on my doors, trim and laundry shelves. Here, they give me the 'House' price at BM. So, be sure and ask for that- I think it's about a 25% discount (maybe your KD can even get you more?)

Hi cv2014, I still love the look of our Semihandmade walnut, to me it's very warm. We briefly looked into having Semihandmade make panels for the side and the back of the island, but we wanted a more substantial edge and it just seemed like we'd have better luck getting it to all work out if we hired a finish carpenter to do the job. We're very happy with how it turned out. You can go to almost any good lumber store and purchase a full sheet of walnut veneer for not a lot of $$s. Depending on where it's used, it could be ok if it doesn't match perfectly with the Semihandmade walnut. The corner cabinet has a filler piece, I think it was around 4 inches, that gives enough clearance so that the cabinet door can open without worrying about having it hit the door to the right. In my case I think I was also concerned about clearance so it wouldn't hit the oven handle as well. That was solved by making the pull-out next to the over slightly wider than originally planned. These are the older Ikea cabinet style, so I'm not sure if the new style has the same kind of corner cabinet or not. Good luck with your planning!

Suzanne, I've been meaning to say that I love your kitchen. The countertops are really beautiful and the overall impression is so serene. Stone guy just left my house. He acknowledged the problems with the seam. He said he can't fix the white area to the right of the seam in front of the sink, as he thinks it was caused by heat? He said it isn't a chip in the stone, and it does feel smooth (not like it is filled with epoxy) so I'm not really sure what it is and what caused it. But he said he can try to remove the top of the epoxy in the seam and fill it with a better color match. The area in front of the faucet where the epoxy ran over the marble by 1/2 inch is actually worse (although it is hard to capture in photos) because it is darker than the marble and you can feel that the rough epoxy was spread over the marble there. He said he can "try to smooth it out" and also fix the seam color there. If I am not satisfied, he will rip it out and start over with a new slab. But he says he can't guarantee that what happened with that white spot next to the front seam won't happen again, which worries me. If I am satisfied with his efforts on the seam, we discussed how to handle the 1/2 gap between the wall and the backsplash. He said it would be costly for him to hire someone to drywall mud it because his guys don't do that. He suggested adding honed carrara tile part way up the wall. I said I would rather he remove the backsplash first and tile it down to the counter. He needs to ask his tile guys if they can float it to cover any gaps between the counter and the wall. The remaining question would be what to do with the side walls, as he had to cut into them as well. He suggested maybe just pencil tile along the marble on the sides to cover the wall damage. Or I could just repair the drywall there down to the countertop, I guess? So, he is trying to remedy the situation, which is great. I am worried about his overall skill level and abilities, though, and concerned that any fix he attempts could make things worse and waste both our time. At least now he knows he can't just do a sloppy job, and he should be more attentive. Thanks for all of your input and support, it has been invaluable. Any further insight on his proposed remedies is welcome. Meantime, the plumber showed up and of course he can't plumb the sink until this is resolved, but hopefully I will at least have a plumbed out and functional gas stove after this! No sink and stove for two months now, getting tired of take-out!