does anyone actually own a Futuro Futuro hood? prove it!!
carriage
14 years ago
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davidro1
14 years agocarecooks
14 years agoRelated Discussions
trouble with my futuro futuro
Comments (20)Do NOT buy from Futuro Futuro!! The sales staff are very friendly, but if you have ANY PROBLEMS, they will stiff you! We just bought a ~$2000 Streamline W unit and we recieved the transformer unit broken off and a crack through a corner trim joint in the stainless steel. When we called the company, they first said we would need to mail back the unit ... we were fine with that (even though the installers had already come out). But we got a call a few minutes later saying the turnaround time would be >3weeks, and would be unneccessary ... we were advised to install the unit and the company would arrange for a repair facility to come out and fix the issues after the installation .... Now I'm running the circles with company seeking recourse on the assurity I was given - and there was one particular support staff who was EXTREMELY rude and abrasive, even attempting to ridicule me on the phone! (Anthony from the sales side was very nice, and he was the one who assured me, but so far he has been extremely ineffective in being able to do anything!) So, buyer beware.... I wish we had gone with the more well-known and reputable brands for ventilation hoods. We just completed an entire kitchen remodel and the wolf appliance distributor here in Chicago was recommending a different company's product. I really had hoped Futuro Futuro would have met my expectations (especially being a relative newcomer in the ventilation hoods market here in the US), but I guess that's what I get for taking a chance on trying a new unknown company. Please don't make the same mistake I did. Well, please contact me with any questions if you want to know details of my experience, I am happy to share it....See Morewhat do you think of this Futuro hood?
Comments (6)Also wondering, am I right in understanding that the bigger the conical part, the better? In other words, those modern, flat ones are not as good? Futuro makes mostly flat ones (at least for the wall models), and that Rainbow one I noted above has a bit of a conical shape, but not too much. The one with a very large cone is more expensive, unfortunately......See MoreHood Poll!!
Comments (9)Does this flat hood have an aperture out to its edges? Reviews may be colored by past experience with inadequate ventilation and by sensitivity to odor or lack thereof. One way to look at the situation is that one has one or more pans/griddles/etc. on burners of some type. The part of the pan that is hot is cooking the food. The burner, if gas, is sending combustion products around the pan and up. (One hopes not to have combustion products from within the pan unless Bananas Foster is on the menu.) Anyway, the rising effluent expands as it rises from the area it started from. The rate of rise and angle of expansion varies with burner type and other factors (I can provide a reference if anyone really cares), but a good model is an inverted right circular cone with the cone peak below the pan so that the edge of the cooking area is encompassed by the cone and the base (wide part) of the cone is at the hood. The total cone angle will be around 45 degrees and the velocity will be around 1 meter/second. So why put the hood at a head-banging 30 inches above the cooktop? To allow a smaller hood to capture more of the expanding effluent because the effluent hasn't expanded as much as it will at 36 inches. Now, as it happens, hoods and other types of transitions between ducts with flow and the room environment are very bad at pulling in air from the sides. They best pull air from the region below the hood aperture. Even then the flow rapidly drops as one moves down away from the aperture, so one should not expect a hood to suck up the effluent from the region of the cooktop. This means that hood function depends on rising effluent, and also that any expanding effluent that misses the hood aperture will not be immediately exhausted, and will either precipitate on the house surfaces (in the case of grease), or be exhausted gradually as the air in the house is replaced. As to whether a flat hood equals a peaked hood, maybe the problem can be simplified. Suppose both hoods have the same aperture. In order for the mesh of the flat hood (baffles need peaked hoods to work) to pull in the rising effluent without any of it reflecting downward, the air flow has to equal the effluent rate of rise everywhere in the aperture reached by any cone base. I'm not going to pull out a calculator, so let's use easy numbers. Let the hood be 3 ft by 2 ft and the effluent velocity be 3 ft/s. Then the flow into the hood aperture has to equal 18 cubit feet per second or 1080 cubic feet per minute. This would require a blower rated at around 1500 cfm because the ducting, transition losses, and mesh losses, as well as the negative pressure pulled in the house even with MUA, will drop the flow rate from that specified for the blower at 0 static pressure drop. Even with this setup, any effluent that isn't directed into the hood will spill into the room. A hood shaped like the Wolf Pro Island Hood has baffles inside sloped upwards. There is little obvious concentration in this shape at the baffle area so it too would seem to need the same flow rate and corresponding blower as the flat hood. In reality the air flow at the baffles is somewhat complicated and effluent that isn't contained near the hood edges will rise and be contained higher up. If the baffle shape is correct, effluent hitting the baffles will not escape. In general baffles will be more effective than flat mesh filters if the mesh is allowed to acquire grease and dust that reduces the flow rate of the system it is part of. If one looks up into a commercial hood, one often sees that the baffles are only on one side and that the other side is designed to taper toward the baffles. In this case there is obvious concentration toward the baffles and the flow rate at the aperture can be lower so long as it meets the required rate at the baffle area. Note also that commercial hoods have deep cavities that are ideal for aiding containment. A hood shaped like a hip roofed house would provide concentration in two dimensions and potentially meet required performance with less flow rate if it has a mesh filter high in the concentration area. This might make cleaning difficult. The above has to be understood in the context that in general, all the burners are not in use generating grease vapor, and a trade-off between size, cost, mounting, ducting, rate of odor removal and aesthetics has to be made in most residential circumstances. Duct size should provide for an air velocity of 1000 to 2000 feet per minute in the duct (at full flow) to keep the smaller grease particles suspended. No baffle/mesh/filter scheme removes all the grease at the filter. kas...See MoreChinese range hoods...anyone have them?
Comments (25)Honestly I only trust Asian made range hoods. Grew up with a Viking hood that was terribly hard to clean and still left oil droplets. I knew others who had other higher and lower end vents that had problems venting odor, sucking up oil, and keeps blowing air in your face. If you cook a lot of Asian food, Asian range hoods are the only way to go. I currently own a Sakura in my apartment and it works great with pretty much anything except frying fish. I really only need to clean it 2x a year. While there’s truth in being wary of things being made in China, range hoods are pretty essential in Chinese cooking. Wok cooking requires real venting power and its not like all vents in households in Asia are virtually collapsing at every use. Of course don’t buy a crapshoot sketchy brand. It’s will never be as complicated as servicing a range with tons of electronics (Samsung)....See Morecarriage
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