Tile advice needed- Bill Vincent?

16 years ago

We're about to start laying tile and I want to make sure I am using the right thinsets for the various tile work in my bathrooms.

This is what I have:

My bathroom floors have hot water radiant heat set in 2" of deck mud. On top of that, we applied Mapelastic HPG to waterproof the floors.

After helpful advice Bill Vincent and others, my shower floors have deck mud over a pvc liner over a preslope. My shower walls have cement backer board with the mapelastic hpg to waterproof the walls and niches.

In one bath I am using 5/8" square marble mosaic on floors and shower walls. In another bath I have 16" pietra cardosa tiles on bathroom floor and shower walls with smaller size pieces on shower floor. In the last bath, I have 8" square porcelain tiles on floor, 2" porcelain tiles on shower floor and 6" ceramic on walls.

What kind of thinset should I be using in these situations? The Mapelastic instructions recommend Kerabond/Keraplastic (I realize they are recommending their own product) but from what I've read, different types of stone and tile demand different types of thinset and I've also heard having radiant heat can affect the choice. Is that the right choice for my situations? I also believe I should use the same thinset on the shower walls, but want to make sure of that.

On a different note, what product should I use on the non-wet walls in the bathroom assuming the tile is either ceramic or porcelain? Is mastic okay there, and if so, what is a good one to use?

Last question - I've read recommendations of not using unsanded grout in the showers. The tile store that sold me the polished marble mosaic said I need to use unsanded so as not to scratch the marble. Is that correct?

Final question, has anyone ever seen pietra cardosa in a mesh backed mosaic so I don't have to cut up larger tiles for my shower floor?

Sorry to ask so many question at once and thank you so much in advance for all of the advice. It is invaluable.

Martin

Featured Answer

bill_vincent

16 years ago

In places where I am using sanded grout and I have chosen a Mapei color - should I use Ultracolor over Keracolor?

Either one is fine. I usually use the Ultra, but it really doesn't matter.

I have read your posts about feeling that SpectraLock being overkill in a residential setting, but are there any drawbacks to using it other than cost?

Not really. One thing to think about, though-- using a medium to dark colored grout will go a whole lot further.

in a mudroom where we are using a natural stone, if we used SpectraLock there, is okay to apply a sealer over it?

No, it's not. The sealer will turn white when it dries.

We would seal the stone with 511 Porous Plus...

Before you go out and buy it, what kind of stone are you sealing? The reason I ask is the 511 Impregnator will do just as good a job on most stone for less than half the money.

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Comments (7)

bill_vincent
16 years ago
What kind of thinset should I be using in these situations? The Mapelastic instructions recommend Kerabond/Keraplastic...

For alot of it, I'd follow their recommendation for the K/K, using white Kerabond. For the walls, though, I'd go with their Ultralite thinset. It's alot stickier and will hold the stone alot better-- not let it sag.

With reference to the mastic, so long as your wall tile is 8x8 or less and doesn't have heavy lugs on the back, yes, you can use mastic for your walls outside the shower.

As for sanded vs. nonsanded, I don't know where you heard not to use unsanded in a shower, but that's bunk. There's only one thing-- NO EXCEPTIONS-- that determines whether you use sanded or unsanded grout, and that's the size of the joints. Less than 1/8" use unsanded. 1/8" and bigger, use sanded.
cookininbrooklyn
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks Bill. I appreciate it.
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JSOL: IF your tiles for your backsplash are GLASS - you REALLY need to check with the manufacturer of the tiles - as some brands have a backing on the tiles that CAN react with some kinds of adhesives....this is a color layer that works kind of like the way a mirror is - it's glass, but the silver "backing" on the back allows you to see your self - does that make sense? Anyways - NOT ALL glass tiles have this "backing" or "coating" on the back of the tiles - it it DOES - definitely check with the manufacturer of the tiles to see what kind of adhesive THEY recommend. I learned this (ALMOST the hard way on a guy's kitchen that was an active NFL defensive end - had I screwed up the job - i prolly wouldn't be typing this today!!! HA!! - it all turned out fine - BECAUSE I CHECKED with the tile manufacturer FIRST - and sure enough - there WAS a color "coating" on the backs of the tiles, and I had to use an adhesive that was compatible) There's lot's of Fire & Ice colors, and it looks like most of their products do not have the color added backing - but even when there is no coating on the bcaks of the tiles - I would use a WHITE thinset (NOT GREY) as the white color of the thinset will help to enhance the colors in the tiles... Mastics tha are out there will work too - they have a little better "hang" quality and for a guy that has not done a lot of vertical work using thinset - mastic will be his "friend" as the mastic adhesives tend to prevent the tiles from sliding down the wall when they are set.... Each guy has his own favorites - and both will work, but I'd prefer WHITE thinset for this application. Your tile guy should also make sure that there is 100% coverage on the backs of the tiles (if they are clear or semi-clear) as IF the back is not covered 100% - you'll see it showing through the tiles as little dark streaks....... sorry for rambling on and on about this - but you'll only get one chance to do this right - otherwise you'll have to do it all over again if it does not looks good the first time...... Like the US Army Sniper School "motto" says - "One Shot-One Kill" OK.... We're not as graphic with setting glass tile, but basically the same message.... do it right the first time I'm sure that my Brother Bill Vincent will have some good wisdom to share on this topic as well - here's hoping he chimes in on this too!!! hth kevin
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cookininbrooklyn
Original Author
16 years ago
Bill,
I wanted to see if I could trouble you with a few other questions.

In places where I am using sanded grout and I have chosen a Mapei color - should I use Ultracolor over Keracolor?

Also, in our kitchen we are using a porcelain tile (Xilo) and my wife is worried about the grout staining and I am worrying about getting around to reapplying grout sealer. I have read your posts about feeling that SpectraLock being overkill in a residential setting, but are there any drawbacks to using it other than cost?

Lastly, in a mudroom where we are using a natural stone, if we used SpectraLock there, is okay to apply a sealer over it? We would seal the stone with 511 Porous Plus and I want to make sure it is not a problem to seal the SpectraLock.

Thanks again for all your time and help.

Martin
cookininbrooklyn
Original Author
16 years ago
Honed pietra cardosa - I believe it is a type of shist. Same thing I'm using in some of my bathrooms.

It seems like it makes less sense to use the Spectralock with natural stone because when re-sealing you have to keep it off the grout.

Also, while a salesperson told me 511 Porous Plus, the company's website says they recommend Stonetech Bulletproof. What do you think?

I was told I could use 511 Impregnator on my polished marble mosaic. Do you agree?

In each case I was told to apply one coat before grouting and one coat after grouting on both stone and grout. Is that what you recommend.

Lastly, when you say a dark grout will go a lot farther, you mean in stain resistance, correct?

Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it.

Martin
bill_vincent
16 years ago
Also, while a salesperson told me 511 Porous Plus, the company's website says they recommend Stonetech Bulletproof. What do you think?

Bulletproof is Stone Tech's version of Porous Plus. For your stone, it's not necessary. The Impregnator will do fine. Same with the marble mosiac.

In each case I was told to apply one coat before grouting and one coat after grouting on both stone and grout. Is that what you recommend.

For the polished stone, you shouldn't need to preseal, but you can if you wish.

Lastly, when you say a dark grout will go a lot farther, you mean in stain resistance, correct?

Not so much in stain resistance as in not SHOWING any stains as much. You won't see wear paths in high traffic areas, and any stains that DO occur will blend in as the grout ages.
cookininbrooklyn
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks again for the help.

Tile advice needed- Bill Vincent?

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