Here is something I put together so I can just copy and paste when someone asks your question. My pest issues are probably close to identical to yours so this should at least be helpful. REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED ________________________________________ Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem requiring more subsequent sprays when they appear. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples. Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule. Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray somewhere between the point where emerging shoots are 1/2" and the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil( 1 to 2 quarts per 25 gallons of water). If it's closer to pink use 1%. Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days. Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are. If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I’ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit. All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception as it tends to merge a couple of weeks after last spray looses effectiveness, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap. If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can’t kill eggs after they’ve been inserted into the fruit. When temperatures permit it is good to mix horticultural oil with 2 or those applications as Surround makes a nice home for mites and scale. Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home growers) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound. Some sites that single spray will also prevent serious rot on later ripening varieties on seasons not particularly wet. Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard over night and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days.. Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls. Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co.

**Yeah, you show me one auto body shop that can paint as good as the factory, and that can repair a rear quarter panel w/o bondo.** Like anything else, you get what you pay for. There are places everywhere that do work that meets or exceeds anything that comes out of the factory. Bondo Bob's discount auto body isn't the only act in town. Easy example, go to any car show anywhere. Tell the owners of some of those that in your opinion their cars are bondo specials and the factory paint looked better than the paint job they have and see what response you get. Better have an escape route before you say that though. News flash, body filler isn't a bad thing. The factory uses it too. The owner chooses where to have their car repaired. It's up to the owner to do the research and pick a shop that replaces parts that need to be, only uses factory parts if you so desire, and has the ace painter and equipment. A good painter will have to take his skill level down a couple notches if anything to match the factory job. The hard part is trying to match the factory defects. As to the subject of the thread, 90% of this cars' depreciation to date happened the second it was signed over to the puchaser and at that moment no longer considered 'new'. $ value lost due to this is minimal. The majority dollar value lost is due to buyer remorse, accident or no accident. I understand feeling that if one wanted a wrecked or repainted car, one would have saved the money and purchased one used rather than pay extra for new. The reality of it is the other party and the insurance company are going to look at it as being repaired as good as it ever was. That's all that can be done so get over it. Unfortunately, that's life.

Well.....where is it? In the carpet? or hiding in the cracks of the upholstery? When you find it all and clean it up....the smell will be gone...mostly...LOL! I am remembering dropping a 2 qt container of salsa on the pavement next to my car....with the door open! It was everywhere! And smelled of garlic for weeks!....don't dispair and keep the windows open!! Linda C

I find that I can often coast 10 - 12 km. of 20 as I return home in the daytime, sometimes more, if I do not have traffic behind me. When outbound late at night, and of necesity on my return in the day, I've tried to compress the variation of speed - rather than from running down to real slow (when there's no traffic to interfere with) to restarting about 25 then going up to about 40 m.p.h. (40 - 60 km./hr.). If I run faster at top speed, I run into more wind resistance, cutting fuel efficiency. If I restart at very slow speed, I must operate in a low gear, which means that the motor is turning many more revolutions for each hundred feet travelled. When I restart, I double clutch - first (quick) release to turn the motor over, then quickly push the clutch in momentarily (about a second, probably), to let the engine get up to speed before I connect it to the wheels again, to obviate the braking action of the engine as it builds up speed, causing reduction in speed on the road that would result. Some practice enables on to restart the engine with very little reduction in forward speed. I rarely need to brake, as I have only two stop signs and have learned how to barely get to them. I'll run the speed down to very low just before I get there (and both are on a slight downslope, at the end of a bout 5/8 of a mile coasting. I thought that, as I'd be restarting oftener, thus able to make less use of downslopes, that I would have lower coasting distance than when I let the car run down to say 5 or 10 m.p.h. before restarting, but I find very little reduction in the number of kilometres coasting. Haven't figured a way to calculate mileage, though, unless I connect the gas line to a small container into which I've put a measured amount of fuel. Don't think I'm about to do that - for legal reasons (plus I have a slight inclination to laziness). I just heard on the radio that we reduced fuel consumption over 25% back in the oil crisis in to '70s. We've used much of the easily found petroleum resources - now it's harder and more expensive to find, and to extract. When China, India and various populous countries build much expanded markets for fuel - guess where the price will go. Further, it took millions of years for the oil to come into being - we've been using it for less than 100 years. Seems to me our grandchildren will curse us for our profligacy. Also, as a Christian, I feel that God has entrusted precious resources into our hands - and that we should not waste them. ole joyful