thanks for the suggestions & support (keep em comin if you have any!) i will run casey's by my friend - it makes me sooo nervous to think about 2x4's or 2x6's resting on my new tile with the tub's weight on them... monica - the deck itself is so skinny that it really isn't strong enough to hold much weight. it does fine with what i've put it through so far, like pushing myself up from the floor & other stuff, and my friend said it will be fine to "sit" on the edge if need be when getting in & out of the tub (though the edge would take maybe a cheek, as bill puts it), but putting all the weight of an adult standing on it in one small space just wouldn't be wise. just wasn't built to handle that. i had an idea to do a sort of see-saw with a board (or 2 or 3) through the open part of the deck & rest the tub on it & then lower the tub down from above & by letting up on the see-saw so as to gradually let it down... but my friend shoo'd that idea off. i may bring it up again now that he's more focused on it. i'm sure glad we don't have to do mortar or anything like that!

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

Thanks to all; cat mom,writersblock and nycbluedevil. I should have mentioned that the tub will be open on three sides to allow 30" at either end for a wheelchair to pass through. The Toto 1525 won't work but the Toto 1500 should work. It is about 60x36x22. I would have to build a 3" frame and I'm not certain how that would look, most surrounding decks seem to be about 6" wide. The other possibility is the Kohler "Reve" freestanding which finishes at 67" but it is pretty pricy. Has anyone sat in the Reve? I am going to check on the AS this morning and I am looking for the Greek. Thanks so much for your suggestions.

I, too, want a very deep cast iron soaking tub for our new master bath. I'm going with the sumptuous Kohler Tea for Two 5.5'. It's 19.5" to overflow (the deepest I could find) and holds a whopping 105 gallons! It can be dropped in, undermounted, or installed in an alcove. I'm trying to tell myself that I'm not ruining the planet by getting my dream soaker that guzzles water. I laid in it at the plumbing supply showroom and didn't want to get out. I don't know what cost prohibitive is to you, but this one isn't cheap. Kohler lists it in white for $2125, but Faucetdirect.com has it for $1434. Oh, and I should mention a warning from the showroom saleswoman. The tub weighs more than 400 pounds. She told me that delivery and install will cost a bit more (whatever that means) because it is so heavy. Installing in on a second floor room can be tricky. Ours is new construction on the first floor so hopefully it won't be too difficult to deliver and install. Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler Tea for Two