You do not need to stack two 2cm slabs on top of each other to make it look like you are using 4cm thick slabs. You only need a small amount of extra material (1-2â inches depending on edge type) to beef up just the outside edges of the counters. Laminated or mitered edges are very common here in So. Cal., where most stone and quartz is sold in 2cm size, rather than 3cm. The fabricator will put a 5/8â thick plywood subtop that is a little narrower than the finished counter size on top of the cabinet. Then the 2cm slab counter is put on top of the plywood. A narrow strip of the quartz is attached just at the edge of the counter to hide the edge of the plywood and make the whole counter look thicker. For standard 24â deep cabinets, the finished counter width with overhang is typically 25.5.â I donâÂÂt know what brand of quartz you plan to buy, but Caesarstone slabs are 56.5â wide, Hanstone is 55â wide, Silestone is 54âÂÂ, Cambria is 55.â (Some brands sell wider âÂÂjumboâ slabs if you have deeper counters.) Assuming a 55â wide slab, two 25.5â deep counters will use up 51â (plus a small amount of loss in the cutting process), leaving the few inches you need for the edge strips. You should need the same number of slabs whether you use 2cm or 3cm material. The thinner material will cost less, which should offset the increased labor cost for the laminated or mitered edge. I am going to try to attach pictures that show the different types of edges.

you could go as high as you like. some take it up to the mirror, some stop short, some go all the way up. just depends on your design. if your tile comes in some type of liner, edging or bevel, you finish the top w/that. or you could use a Schluter edging strip,,,or the finishing could smooth the top and run a caulking bead. without seeing the tile it's hard to say. some examples. this last one is my own. since I was doing wall mount faucets, I chose to continue my countertop up about 10" or so for my splash. Plus, I had so much going on elsewhere w/the tile, I didn't want additional busy looking tile at the sink w/this counter. He used a thinner depth on it than was on the edging.

No, not if it's done properly. If the front edge is 2cm, there is no need for a sub top. If the front edge is 2cm with a 2cm build up, the build up can continue around the sink edge so no sub top will be visible. Here is a 2 cm top with a built up front edge with no build up at the sink:

Mark_rachel, its only 12" because there is door to my backyard to the right of it and a wall that juts out behind it that would create a bottleneck if the island is too big. That's the most I can have without blocking traffic. When it was designed I wanted a full two feet behind the sink so my kids could sit there without their stuff falling in the sink. It was decided to put cabinets in the back for a little extra storage without the need for extra support. I would love to have a slightly bigger overhang but I don't have to room and yes, I want the best I can get for my money. If you could have the exact same countertop for $2200 vs. $4500 isn't that the way you would go? I'm bucking at the supports because that is what the back cabinets were put there for, supports are going to get in the way of the doors. Mainenell, that's an interesting idea! It would require adapting the back cabinets though or it would block the doors opening. Weedmeister, thanks for the warning. It is firmly bolted in. My husband built the base on site because this house is old and the floor decidedly unlevel.