This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

I think you've made great choices so far! For the counters, I think a lighter color would keep the room from getting too heavy, with the black vanity and dark gray floor. White granite would be awesome, though hard to find/expensive. Caesarstone nougat and Silestone Mont Blanc are colors to look at if you want a solid surface; just be sure to take the marble-like tile with you when you pick a counter, as the marble can run to the blue end of the spectrum, or the more cream-colored end. It can make a big difference in the overall color scheme. I really like recessed medicine cabinets, so think about whether your contractor could do that. Obviously lots cheaper to install would be a wall mounted cabinet, and those are easy to find in a style that compliments your vanity. If you want to stick with the craftsman style of your vanity, Home Depot has white medicine cabinets that would coordinate really well. And as said above, sconces that go on either side would be possible if you shrink the mirror. If your budget is tight, consider just putting some trim around the existing mirror to create a frame. Even though big mirrors are "out", they can be pretty nice to expand the illusion of space in a narrow room. And consider how the mirror is attached to your wall. If it's heavily glued, removing it will wreck the wall. Are you replacing the tile that's on the rest of the bathroom walls? As for paint, a very very pale aqua can look great with the cararra marble finishes. I'd be careful not to go too blue because it can look cold and/or garish. I actually would consider doing a dark gray wall, perhaps only on the top half if you're keeping tile on the lower half. If you use glossy paint, it can look very rich.

"Chrome escutcheon w/ 1 1/4" hole to cover the connection at the wall. " And escutcheons for the supply lines. Though many of the escutcheons are now plastic and open so you can put them on after the fact. I still have a stash of solid ones in metal that open, and others that do not open. The non-opening ones must go on before the valve is soldered. Chrome sleeves for copper pipe (and steel pipes) have been around a long time. This post was edited by brickeyee on Sat, Apr 27, 13 at 15:54

The paint color on the lower half of the wall is just a very light lavender. The upper half is more purple. I actually mixed the lavender myself, by adding a little of the purple paint to some white paint. The fake tile (sheet vinyl) floor came from Linoleum City in Los Angeles. I looked and looked and looked for that vinyl and Linoleum City is the only place that sells it. I called a salesman there and asked about it. He said they had a unique contract with Tarkett (I think) to produce this product and he didn't think it was sold anywhere else in the country. Their number one client is Hollywood. Set-building people buy it by the roll to use on the sets. The sheet vinyl creates the look of early 20 Century hex tile floor in a jiffy. :) The light fixtures and medicine chest are reproductions. The light fixtures came from Rejunvenation Hardware and the medicine chest came from Van Dykes Restoration hardware. All these years of writing about old houses and I finally got to use some of the resources I've been writing about. Thanks for all the nice comments. Rose Here is a link that might be useful: linoleum city link