I've obtained quotes from six different vinyl window replacement companies for identical product and they are all within $200 of each other. Kind of disappointed as I thought there would be more variation in pricing. Is it common in the window replacement industry for companies to have such similar pricing? Not sure whether it's worth it to spend $2000 to replace two large living room windows. On a positive note, through talking to six different companies, I have changed my opinion on Low E glass.

mnzinnia, I'm a bit baffled at Marvin making a window smaller than what you needed for your opening. Marvin has always been really good at making windows to the specs we require. The only time they can't meet these needs is when we push the over-sized units. Otherwise they've always come within a fraction of an inch of what we need. In your case the person that measured told you the "vertical style", or the proper term being the "Center Mullion or MULL", would be spread to fit. This is a very common practice in the industry used everywhere. We call it a "Spread Mull" when we order a product needing a special sizing. We use it when ordering custom sized doors with side-lights all the time. If your windows didn't come with the spread mull done properly your installer should have sent them back to be done to the right size. We would have never installed these windows if they were to small unless the customer gave us the go ahead to downsize the opening. One thing I've seen lately are the outstate contractors still do things the old school way. Their continuing education on the changes in our installation practices always seems to be light years behind. One thing the installer has to be aware of is the new building codes from 2006 have specifically stated that the manufacturers installation instructions for windows and doors become code. This means every installer must know and understand the application instructions of each product they install or they will void the manufacturers warranty. In your case there's no problem because Marvin's insructions only state that "If You Desire" you can use a low-expansion foam sealant around their window next to the nailing fin. In todays practice we are using a low-expansion foam all the time during our installations. We have also been using the stuff in fiberglass combined with the low expansion foam. We spray the foam in first against the nail fin and then use the stuff in fiberglass behind the foam. The main reason being it stops the expanding foam from oozing out of the opening and making a mess. The use of low-expansion foam properly will eliminate any "Air Infiltration" from around the window. Fiberglass insulation is really made to be most effective at it's expanded 3-1/2" or more. When the fiberglass is compacted around a window in that tiny gap it's air infiltration impedance is nothing. So any air leaking in past the nail fin will find it's way into the home. The low expansion foam forms a barrier that stops air infiltration from entering the home. It will fill the little voids and cracks that the stuff in fiberglass won't. The positive feature of low-expansion foam is it stops water from entering the cavity. If water happens to get past the exterior barriers the foam will act as a watershed and keep the water from penetrating. The stuffed in fiberglass will soak the water up like a sponge and start to break down or sink in the cavity it's suppose to protect. When this happens you get an opening to possible mold & mildew issues that I'm not even going to think about getting into. Just to make you feel a little better about things and I don't send you into a panic attack. The worst case scenario of leaking water and air threatening your lake home is very small. Since it sounds like your completely overhauling the exterior of the lake home you have a couple barriers that will more than likely stop anything before it gets to the window cavity. You've already told me the home was wrapped with Tyvek and flashing was done around the outside of the windows. Hopefully the installers used a nail-fin application that was back caulked before anchoring. If all these items were done properly and drip caps were installed above each window with the Hardiplank siding finishing it off. Your probably going to be just fine. Just make sure all the windows are caulked and sealed to the Hardiplank to form that first coat of armor. In other words I think you'll be just fine and dandy down the road. Sounds to me like your only problem will be that sheetrock dust and touch-up painting. I wish you well in the final moments of your project. Then you can sit back and enjoy the great Summer Minnesota has for us every year!! Good Luck!!!

I can share a few things about Milgard and Marvin Integrity. We are in the hot south Santa Clara County of SF Bay Area. We have Milgard and plain Marvin. The Integrity uses Marvin's Ultrex which is fibeglass. This material is very strong and is used for sailboat hull and even experimental aircraft. When well constructed, it lasts almost forever. Between vinyl (Milgard) and fiberglass (Integrity), I would pick figerglass. If you want to do "refit", do take a look at Marvin Infinity. It uses fiberglass outside and wood inside. Real nice. This was our first choice 4 years ago but its exterior color limitation forced us to use Marvin. We have two old Milgard vinyls left in our house. They are 11+ years old, I think, and they still work fine. One is a casement that faces east and is exposed to the hot summer sun from morning until noon. Some of its surround is warpng and becoming soft, likely due to the heat and sun, but still usable and may last another 5 years but no more. The other is a slider shaded by a large oak so it is like new and works fine. Unfortunately, it has no low-E coating so when temperature here gets up to 110, the glass gets really warm and the frame gets really really warm. Whatever you choose, do include low-E II (or 3) and argon gas between panes. I think Milgard is not bad at all for vinyl windows as ours still work fine. After 11+ years, Milgard may have developed some new ways to further stabilize the vinyl. Milgards are very popular in newly built monster mansion homes in our area. For "higher end" quality, Marvin Integrity and Marvin Infinity are good alternatives. Good luck!

Thanks, Todd. The Vytex quotes did include the exterior color of my choice My understanding is that the original trim will remain, but I may not be clear on the extent of the term "trim" The Marvin quote includes painting One additional issue is the upcharge for laminated glass on the Marvins--$500 per window. Is this reasonable? The Vytex quotes include laminated glass for 3 upstairs windows and any additional laminated glass is only $150/window. I think i would also like laminated glass for my 3 street-facing kitchen windows, so that is an additional consideration. Re whether it worth the money---I really don't have a sense of the aesthetic differences between them. I'm also concerned about reading that the Marvin windows only have a 10 year warranty on the wood, which seems to run counter to the claims that wood windows will last many years. Also, I can't find any air infiltration numbers on the Marvins. The U factor and other specs seem competitive with the Vytex.