"I have a feeling you're not much of a people person.....maybe even a little pretentious." Oh really tlewis??? Funny, in all my years I've never been accused of that before. I'll tell you one thing about me though. I'm not someone thats going to sugar coat anything, if I think someone has no business inside their system I won't think twice of voicing my opinin. Maybe you're an overly sensitive and extremely naive little individual tlewis. Perhaps you should go over this entire thread again. It seems to me this guy is having a problem with his gas heating system. Incidentally he himself said he smelled gas! So he thinks he could go on the internet, type in a question or two and "glory be" his problem it solved! But its possible he could kill himself trying. Its been days now and this guy is still monkeying around. How do you know at this point if this system isn't totally scrwed up. Is the internet anyplace to learn about gas furnaces? NOT! "Gee, I wonder where this loose wire gets connected to!!!" I suppose your going to explain to this guy how to check all the safetys in his system too. If you're in this trade tlewis I hope you don't work this way with your customers. I don't know about you but when I work on a system, even if it was something simple, I go through that entire system. I check every safety, every wire, every sta-con, "everything" If I remove a wire nut I always cut back and strip insulation this way I know I have a nice new clean tight connection. Maybe in your mind I'm not a people person but I'm one hell of a conscientious technician who customers and less expereienced techs ask for. I also think I'm a pretty good judge of people and know when somebody should bail out. I hope someday being a little goody two shoes doesn't end up biting you right on the keester! Its a crazy world out there!

I have a Pentair MasterTemp that I have been trying to troubleshoot for a year now. It calls for heat, heat starts for maybe 5-10 seconds, then stops, temp raises rapidly to 124 then slowly back down to 75 and cycles again doing the same thing over and over again. So far I have replaced the thermal regulator, igniter, thermistor and the bypass valve in the manifold. Today, I did a bunch of troubleshooting. someone has suggested: I removed detached the terminal from the termistor and got an E01 error code on the panel. I connected my old termistor and got a reading of 85 degrees. When I hold it, the temp slowly went up to 90. I then reconnected the terminal on the new terminstor and got 75 (I guess that's the water temp). When problem started happening last early last year, one of the thing I did was replaced a broken Jandy check valve between the heater and chlorinator. I also noticed that the flap wasn't opening even at 3450rpm and 20-25psi. Although, there's strong water coming out of the 2 return lines. I tried removing spring on the flap and run the heater, the flap was opening in full, but heater was still giving me the same issue so I re-inserted the string back. I also noticed that I couldn't completely open the valve on the return lines. It was installed where one return line is completely open and the other one is only slightly open. So, I opened the 3-port valve and adjusted it where the 2 return lines are fully open. I run the heater and this time it did something different. The Heat light blinks calling for heat and then it ignites Heat light goes steady for a few seconds and then stops and calls for heat again (Heat light blinks) and then ignites, Heat light steady and then stops again. It kept doing this several times and then sometimes the temp will start counting up rapidly and slowly counts down to the current temp and cycles again. Note: when the opened the manifold last winter to replace the bypass, the manifold and the heat coils have no signs of scales. I only found 1 small stone stuck inside where the bypass is. So I thought that was causing the problem. In case there is blockage in the heat exchanger, how do I fix that? Thanks for your advise. Here are the video links. 1st one is the initial issue. The 2nd is after modified the 3-port valve to the return lines. https://youtu.be/OaYfnEbjAFU https://youtu.be/OLxQI4lA1eg

I think we have decided to keep the knee wall. I don't think the extra 6" in counter depth above the dishwasher is worth it. I have been really worried how that was going to look being so open like that. Especially given that we are going with the Blanco Culina Semi-professional faucet which is almost 2 feet tall. Now to decide what to do for the backsplash area on that knee wall. Do we carry the quartz up and over or use two rows of subway tile between the counter and ledge (will be quartz).

Nothing on the hind end but tearout and redo. All the work was on the front end in product and labor selection. Better hope he knows how to properly waterproof a shower. Most of the budget hacks are clueless. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer Hire better next time, or this time, if this doesn’t have to be torn out and done over.