"I have a feeling you're not much of a people person.....maybe even a little pretentious." Oh really tlewis??? Funny, in all my years I've never been accused of that before. I'll tell you one thing about me though. I'm not someone thats going to sugar coat anything, if I think someone has no business inside their system I won't think twice of voicing my opinin. Maybe you're an overly sensitive and extremely naive little individual tlewis. Perhaps you should go over this entire thread again. It seems to me this guy is having a problem with his gas heating system. Incidentally he himself said he smelled gas! So he thinks he could go on the internet, type in a question or two and "glory be" his problem it solved! But its possible he could kill himself trying. Its been days now and this guy is still monkeying around. How do you know at this point if this system isn't totally scrwed up. Is the internet anyplace to learn about gas furnaces? NOT! "Gee, I wonder where this loose wire gets connected to!!!" I suppose your going to explain to this guy how to check all the safetys in his system too. If you're in this trade tlewis I hope you don't work this way with your customers. I don't know about you but when I work on a system, even if it was something simple, I go through that entire system. I check every safety, every wire, every sta-con, "everything" If I remove a wire nut I always cut back and strip insulation this way I know I have a nice new clean tight connection. Maybe in your mind I'm not a people person but I'm one hell of a conscientious technician who customers and less expereienced techs ask for. I also think I'm a pretty good judge of people and know when somebody should bail out. I hope someday being a little goody two shoes doesn't end up biting you right on the keester! Its a crazy world out there!

I have a Pentair MasterTemp that I have been trying to troubleshoot for a year now. It calls for heat, heat starts for maybe 5-10 seconds, then stops, temp raises rapidly to 124 then slowly back down to 75 and cycles again doing the same thing over and over again. So far I have replaced the thermal regulator, igniter, thermistor and the bypass valve in the manifold. Today, I did a bunch of troubleshooting. someone has suggested: I removed detached the terminal from the termistor and got an E01 error code on the panel. I connected my old termistor and got a reading of 85 degrees. When I hold it, the temp slowly went up to 90. I then reconnected the terminal on the new terminstor and got 75 (I guess that's the water temp). When problem started happening last early last year, one of the thing I did was replaced a broken Jandy check valve between the heater and chlorinator. I also noticed that the flap wasn't opening even at 3450rpm and 20-25psi. Although, there's strong water coming out of the 2 return lines. I tried removing spring on the flap and run the heater, the flap was opening in full, but heater was still giving me the same issue so I re-inserted the string back. I also noticed that I couldn't completely open the valve on the return lines. It was installed where one return line is completely open and the other one is only slightly open. So, I opened the 3-port valve and adjusted it where the 2 return lines are fully open. I run the heater and this time it did something different. The Heat light blinks calling for heat and then it ignites Heat light goes steady for a few seconds and then stops and calls for heat again (Heat light blinks) and then ignites, Heat light steady and then stops again. It kept doing this several times and then sometimes the temp will start counting up rapidly and slowly counts down to the current temp and cycles again. Note: when the opened the manifold last winter to replace the bypass, the manifold and the heat coils have no signs of scales. I only found 1 small stone stuck inside where the bypass is. So I thought that was causing the problem. In case there is blockage in the heat exchanger, how do I fix that? Thanks for your advise. Here are the video links. 1st one is the initial issue. The 2nd is after modified the 3-port valve to the return lines. https://youtu.be/OaYfnEbjAFU https://youtu.be/OLxQI4lA1eg

There needs to be pool returns.The water from the spa's spill will cool substantially before hitting the pool. You will also have a hard time getting chlorine in the pool without sending water to both the spa and pool. In case you didn't notice, your builder is not the brightest light in the chandelier. Potentially pulling water for the pool pump and the in floor system at the same time will probably pull too much for the skimmer. You also now have a single source of suction for the in floor system. I am willing to bet he knows he screwed up too and will try to dance his way out of the right way this should be set up. Scott

I don't know the details of the fixings for the granite. We had a granite table previously (see picture) for 16 years but it was so well fixed and stable, they were unable to remove the granite to move it for the current garden renovation, so sadly it had to be destroyed! So we're having to get a new piece of granite! I love the fact it needs absolutely no maintenance whatsoever, other than a scrub and wipe before use! As far as the banquette, we don't really have a choice. We've removed a higher level garden to create a new patio area and intend to have a firepit table that needs a minimum 3 metre footprint. If we have the fixed table away from the house wall and far enough away to be able to pull out chairs all the way around, it will be in the way of the chairs of the firepit table and make the whole area look/feel cluttered. I'm hoping that with a 12" gap between the seating and the table top that slim adults won't find it impossible, even if it isn't ideal. We'll have the five folding chairs for regular use, so it will only be when we have "extras" that the banquette will come into play. Does that reassure..?