Thanks for the feedback. We are actually having a custom home built on our lot. We went with a more expensive "upscale" builder to hopefully avoid this type of nickel and dime type stuff. Every previous home we have seen from this builder had 8" faucents in the master bath, so it is not an uncommon "upgrade". The faucets themselves are $100 more per, the additional installation is above that. So to upgrade 3 faucets it's costing us 675 dollars. We would be willing to get the standard, and upgrade later, but we would not only need to buy the new faucets, but also new vanity tops and pedestal sink. thanks again for the feedback

I have the Kohler Caxton sink K2210. The interior dimensions are 12x15. I believe it is 7 inches deep. I find this sink to be plenty big enough for bathroom use. The oval shape also gives you a little more countertop area than a rectangle shape. You should be able to get it in white for under$100. Home Depot has them on their website at $67 dollars. Here's how they look installed in my 60x21 inch vanity Plenty of room behind the sink, especially if you don't have an estcheon plate like I do because of a miscommunication by the plumber to the fabricator regarding faucet hole.

It’s a little more work for the plumber at the early rough-in stage, and then can’t be moved without difficulty. A wall faucet rough-in has to be dimensioned *perfectly* both horizontally and vertically. Things like, will the floor tile be 1/4” or 3/16“ or 1/2” thick? Will the countertop be 2cm or 2.5cm or 3cm thick? Counter at 34”or 36” high? Vessel sink or undermount? All can change the height of the wall rough in valve. When the finish plumbing is countertop mounted the rough in plumbing does not have to be so exact.

@Jan Moyer we are hiring a professional contractor. I sent the plans to him yesterday. waiting on his estimate. i have spent a lot of time on it. during my initial consultation with him he didn’t think to turn the tub. He did however say that a 34 inch wide shower was fine since it’s 54 deep. i actually don’t want the chandelier direcyltky over the tub. I’m thinking id like it centered in the section of the “room” with the tub. my husband wants to keep the tub parallel to the window and says 34 inches will be fine in the shower. so yes i got more gray hair over this for nothing. cest la vie! we kept the wood louvered doors original to the house so thats why I’m putting the mirrors on the wall. i am toting with the idea of having them trimmed up on the walls likr this the original 70s bathroom had giant unframed mirrors surrounding the tub like walls. I still have all those mirrors. i know this type Of trim work will be expensive. I‘d like to get an estimate on it though. i just moved the closet door away from tub. That was still the original/existing location.. back to the hall. I’m not sure why my blue & yellow lines pic didn’t post. Trying again one yellow line is the wall I’m talking about. The other yellow line is the distance/walking space I’m talking about. The blue line is where the wall exists now. I know 56” is enough in the bathroom and that 40 or more is enough in the hall. I have to move the wall no matter what though so i‘m trying to figure out the best place to move it to. The hall is 20 feet long. and is currently 40 inches wide then widens to 64” wide after you pass the kids bath. as it is on the plans, the hall is 48” inches after the kids bath, and the space between the vanity counter and the wall with shower and water closet is 56”. The contractor thought i should give the other 8” inches to the bathroom and make the hall 40 inches. Then he went and looked at the hall and said well it is a long hall so i can see why you like some extra width here.