i just measured the hght of my vanity earlier and it's at 32". I'm 5' and I'd be ok if it were even and inch or 2 higher.

Have you thought about building up a platform there to put it on? I don't think the casters will look right with it.

34"-36" would be the most comfortable height for all users.

Not gonna be able to add that much height to this piece (and 36" is too tall for me and DD), even without a mirror above it. It would just look out of proportion, and I'm afraid it will be out of scale in the small room.

Can't use the mirror here - I just pulled it out of storage, tried it (I knew it was pretty much the same width as the room), and while it may look OK in that room with a different vanity, no way can it go over the towel bar, and I really prefer to put it in a room where I can hang it without scraping my knuckles on the side walls ;-)

I just purchased cabinets from cabinet store and they, along with cabinet designer said that they should be 32"

Hi ajsmama - I've been following your posts with interest because I'd like to do something similar, if I can find the right piece -- not easy. I've been looking for a while. Everything is either too shallow, too low, or too wide (for my small bathroom).

Using a washstand will work out great, if you can solve the height problem. Have you considered adding legs to the vanity? They would have be rather plain to go with the style of the washstand. I saw some on Van Dykes that I think would go (stylistically speaking). I don't think it would be too difficult for a carpenter to make similar legs out of oak to match your washstand. As long as the size and tapering match the existing washstand legs and you can get a reasonable match for the stain and finish, the modifications would be nearly inconspicuous, and since the joints would be so low, I don't think that people would notice the joints even if the joint lines show. If you're planning to paint the washstand, it would be impossible to tell.

The back legs wouldn't need to be tapered because they'd be totally hidden (and the back legs on your washstand are probably square anyway). If your carpenter uses dowel joints, they should be strong enough, since you won't have to move the washstand once it's installed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Van Dykes - plain tapered furniture legs (paint grade)

dilettante- I once used a victrola cabinet that was the right height and depth. They aren't overly wide, either.

Cousin couldn't make it last night. I had thought about extending the legs (1.5" wide, paneled sides have separate legs from the front and the front overlaps them, so grain is on face of front *and* sides, not that sides would show but I don't want to mangle the piece). It was painted once and (sort of) stripped and refinished, I was going to refinish it again but stain since I have no painted woodwork or furniture in the whole house. Also missing original hardware, that's why I don't mind modifying the piece. If Joe can cut the pieces (incl continuing the taper on the front legs without getting too small at the bottom), I can dowel and glue and stain them. But I don't know if adding 3" to the legs is going to throw the proportions off.

jamies - wow, you must be tall! My great-great-grandpa's Victrola (intact but missing key) has casters, with the casters it's 43" tall!

jamies -- Thanks for the tip. I always thought of victrola cabinets as tall and skinny, but I did a google image search and saw some that would work. There were even a few that had been purposefulness as bathroom vanities. I'm already using a 1940's mahogany tv cabinet as a base for my tv and a sheet music cabinet as a bar, so why not?

You could put a small sink in a sheet music cabinet - my mom gave hers to my aunt, she uses it as a reception desk in her home-based hair salon.