Hi John, I thank you so much for your comments. I live in Ma, so I'm not that far away. Since your first response I have done the following. I tightened up the chain to remove all of the slack. The noises the thing were making have drastically subsided!!! Every now and then you get a little clank or pop when it catches a pellet, but that's about it. I pulled out the outside air intake flex-hose and it really seems to burn much better. My father-in-law was like, no no no, the outside air will be much better. I told him to read the manual and it says the only benefit to outside air is for small tight homes or mobil homes..... Needless to say the outside air is gone!!! The burn pot is much cleaner, I do scrape it daily and the last two days the carbon build up is down. The only thing I noticed is the glass doors are a little more dirty on the sides, but if the thing will run like it's been, I can live with that!!! How often do you scrape carbon from yours???? and do you find the glass doors become dirty on the sides??? Frig Harman and their dealers, it seems the actual owners are much more knowledgeable.... Please respond when you have a chance. Many Many Thanks!!!!

Hello CNVH, Paul Meller from West Bloomfield, MI. (Just north of Detroit) I too have the base board/hot water heat. I have three heating zones (White Rogers zone valves) with one circulator motor (Taco brand.) When I bleed my system periodically (in the summer), I turn off the furnace, attach a garden hose to the drains (one drain is located beneath each zone valve) I manually open up one valve at a time (with the manual dial on the valve) and let it bleed. I do this to each of the zones. While bleeding each zone, I open up the pressure reducing valve so the water flows at full house pressure (60PSI). Before I close the drain, I put the pressure reducer valve back to normal. As you know, the system operates at 15 PSI. I repeat the process on all three zones. Then turn back on the furnace. Make sure your air vent on the furnace is not corroded shut. They are inexpensive to replace. It is important to periodically "flush" the system. If water gets old, it eventually gets corrosive. The valves, pump and lines begin to degrade.... which can cause leaks. Then some may have an enviornmentally safe "anti-freeze" added to the system. This is in case of power failure during a deep freeze. What a disaster should pipes freeze in a hot water system. Good reason to have a back-up generator. Consult a professional if you may need anti freeze. It has to be the "safe" kind of anti-freeze, so if it may by chance feed in your house supply.... you will be safe. Here's how to see if your system has a leak.... Just shut down the water feed to the system. Your system should hold the 15 PSI pressure on its own. You can do this during the summer, when the furnace is off. This will tell you if you have leaks, espeecially if you have pipes buried below cement on a lower level (like I have). The cement and ground touching the copper pipes will eventually cause a leak. I had leaks, so I had to "by-pass" some runs.... That's is another story, for another time. I installed my Peerless Cast Iron Bolier myself about 10 years ago... with the above by-pass. It works just fine, very silent. Hope this helps. Paul Mellerowicz

Very Nice! Looks like snow on the ground? The colour in the first one is beautiful and the trees add a nice touch to the already beautiful sky. Kt

LOL, Bbstx, the manufacturer went out of business this year so you're safe. Serena and Lily carry Lee brand chairs and they have 20% off sales, if you wait. Their shipping is high, but I've never compared the chairs with 20% off and delivery with other vendors' prices. Also, if you go with CR Laine or Century, make sure you get a quote from Lexington Furniture in Kentucky. I have found their prices much cheaper than others--$375 PER CHAIR less than Furniturelandsouth on some Laneventure chairs we got a couple of years ago.