There is only ONE adjustment screw and that is supposed to be for IDLE only. I do not engage mower blades at IDLE, only at higher RPM. The new coil is junk. Will have another new coil Mon or Tues. Now have intermitent spark on one side, weak spark on other side. Old coil is corroded through in one area. I'm still trying to figure out how most are saying it's a carb mixture problem when there is nothing to adjust, and idle speed isn't the problem. I still say it's the coil...we shall see. All this trouble over this engine and not getting much gardening done! Invested a lot in this machine. New blades, belts, engine parts, plus a new cultivator and hitch system. I need it to be working....just only so much I can do with little money. Very exasperated now. Neighbor down the road has 2 MTD riders for $50. Or 1 1/2 rather. Engines are different but still Briggs. No idea how bad those are...or if one of those would even mount since they are single cylinder and mine is a twin. 16 hp on the one I believe. Thanks for bearing with me on this and your suggestions.

mrsig wrote "JohnG - I didn't mean to offend, but by "some research" I just meant a few searches on the internet for my problem that, in a few cases, turned up the compression clutch as a possible problem." The internet is a wonderfull thing in the way it brings information to our fingertips. But it also can bring poor or incomplete information. Plus decent information can be missapplied by someone that is not properlly trained to use it, internet based or not. Mrsig wrote "I did say "some" research though, which should indicate that it wasn't a "thorough/complete" research." Now if an auto tech approached his/her job that way would you be happy with the effort to that point? mrsig wrote. "FWIW, my experience with A/C going "bad" has resulted in both times with the mechanics wanting to replace, if not the whole system (bad choice of words on my part), a significant part of the system (compressor)...without looking elsewhere for a proper diagnosis." Daignostics is usually the hardest part of auto repair, and especially something like refrigeration (AC). Here in Pa. our AC season is really about 4 months long, with it really hitting hard in June and July, then the rest of the year we may not use that equipment, training, or skills at all. That does not make a missdiagnosis any less wrong, it's just the way it is, and few people would do better in their own jobs with a situation like that. Now there are people in the field that still excel with those repairs even under those circumstances. mrsig wrote. "It was a shame that shopping around for different mechanics changed the source of the problem, the repair solution, and the significant $$ of work performed." Ok so two times you had AC trouble, and the first diagnosis was wrong. So you took it somewhere else and they got it right? My first question is, why are you "shopping around" if you found someone that is capable of diagnosing your AC trouble correctly? (This ties in so well with the question vivian asked about capitolism) People find a shop/tech that can do the work correctly the first time but abandon them for the first discount that comes down the street. Then they only go back to the good shop when the discounter can't do the work, or at least do it correctly. Which BTW we do have to qualify, your statement about two AC repairs is incomplete. If the AC problem was the compressor was leaking, and someone else "fixed" it by putting in sealer, then the debate is not over in reguards to the problem being fixed or not correctly. While with limited knowledge a consumer may be happier with the sealer for their solution the correct repair really would have been to replace the compressor, and the tech/shop that was making that recommendation was in fact the one that was right. You see the answer isn't always the fewest dollars from the consumers pocket "today" is the correct one. Adding sealer makes the system unserviceable in the future, period. I have a test kit to identify sealers added to the system and if I detect a sealer, the car gets parked outside and there is nothing I can or will do with it at all. It may have saved you the day it was put in, but it only delayed the real cost, which is more than you want to pay.

You and the shop have both ventured down a path you should not have taken. If the shop really knew as much as they should about today's computer controlled cars, they would not have advised you to just keep running it, because if the check engine light is on, it basically means the car's computer has detected a problem where the car is probably polluting the air more than 1.5 times (or more) than the FTP limits. The fact that you have a different air cleaner, and exhaust all by themselves didn't cause that to happen directly. But I can tell you, I'd probably look at your vehicles situation, perform some base investigating of the failure, then the odds would be high that I would turn you down as a customer. It's one thing to fix a broken car, one that has a natural failure from it's base design. But repairing one that is altered simply has too many variables to allow for any normal diagnostic path. Simply said, the Lexus service manual does not have any segments that say with code P0XXX perform this set of tests, and with code P0XXX and this vehicle modification(s)perform another set of tests.

Your post isn't real clear. The safety system is designed to shut off the mower when the clutch isn't let out if it doesn't detect your presents on the seat. Seat switches do fail plus I have seen on your rider where the seat bracket or switch bracket (slips my mind exactly) was not assembled correctly and the switch wouldn't activate for the owner- but could for a bigger individual. If it is able to run, but only run slow- does it feel that the engine is lugging down?