1. How to load so the clothing or sheets don't tangle so horribly? You know, my Miele does some tangling too and I think that's just the way frontloaders are? I just separate as I remove from the washer -- it has not injured my clothing. 2. When I buy dark cotton tee shirts, the shirt starts to fade around the collar and hem after just a couple of washes, and the collar seems to look ratty after around 6 months. Again, I've been using regular/cotton on warm. I had this problem when I used Tide/detergents with optical brighteners. The warm wash on your Bosch might be considerably warmer than the warm wash on your previous toploader, and although you are using the recommended amount of detergent or less, the Bosch is probably using so little water that the detergent water is really more concentrated than with a toploader. I would try cutting back on detergent as well as switching to a detergent without optical brighteners. You could also try washing on "cold" (not tap cold) to further preserve darker colors. Similarly, my husbands cotton and cotton/poly dress shirts have had excessive wear at the collar tips and darks fade quickly and some of the material pills. I have had to replace shirts at about the one year mark, whereas with my old top loader, the shirts lasted a few years. I do turn them inside out. Any suggestions on these two? I am wondering if the Permanent press cycle would be better? On dress shirts, yes I would use the permanent press or even the delicates cycle and "cold" water (which is 30C or 86F), maybe less detergent and/or a different detergent. 3. Sheets- all my sheets have had permanent creases put into them in the top hem of the sheet. I am unable to iron these out. Again, I run sheets on hot regular/cotton cycle with extra rinse. Is there a better cycle to run sheets on so they don't get creases like this, and tangled so horribly? As far as I can figure, more wrinkles are a way of life with frontloaders? That's how it seems to me. You could try a lower spin speed (the trade off is it won't be as clean of a rinse). I would also try drying on a gentler heat over a longer period of time, and removing while still slightly damp and iron it while damp. Re: dustmites -- if you can't figure out a way to wash it... you can freeze it instead. Wrap in a garbage bag and freeze for 24-48 hours.

By the way, my decision to replace the entire a/c system is due in part to these factors: 1. Outside condenser broke down and it's 24 years old and uses R22 freon which is now being phased out in favor of R410A refrigerant. I didn't want to get a replacement R22 unit and I prefer to switch to R410A. 2. Evap coils are 24-years old and full of R22. Can't be cleaned because they have too many curves in the copper tubes, so they have to be replaced. 3. Existing lineset is full of R22 freon and the oils that go into the liquid. Many installers prefer to flush the existing lineset, but I got a lot of advise on this board to replace the lineset with a new one. This way you don't have to worry about the flush being done right. At minimum, I wanted to replace the evap coils, lineset, and outside condenser. Unfortunately, my existing gas furnace was installed upright in the attic and the evap coils are about 5 feet from the gas furnace. Even though the gas furnace works fine, I decided to get a variable speed high efficiency motor gas furnace to get the best possible SEER-15 with the new matched evap coils and new outside a/c unit. So, I'm getting a complete new system with new ducts, new lineset, new gas furnace, new coils, and new a/c condenser. If parts of my existing ductwork weren't original from the early 1950s and I wasn't using R22, I would have only replaced the broken outside condenser. It would only have cost me about $2000 to do this. I would have been happy with SEER-13.

Hi Jally, Do you currently have any seepage or water leaking at all in their present state? The reason I suggested a reputable handyman is that one who has experience in most all fields will also have the tools to take on this project. To trim out according to your picture, I would bring my portable table saw in order to rip down backing to accept the trim. Also would bring my finish chop saw to clean cut the trims as well as sanders, finish nailers,etc, all tools that a reputable ,experienced handyman would have along with all painting tools. If you are just looking to paint what you have installed and you have no leaking issues, you can easily do this yourself. Get a quart of bullseye zinnzer 123 primer, some dap dynaflex 230 sealant, and a good quart of exterior acrylic enamel and you'll want to put two top coats. Sand and rid any loose debris from all, clean the surfaces well ridding any dusts, primer, then caulk all joints where woods meet using the method mentioned above of cutting a small bead from the tube and as you caulk, moisten your finger and work it smooth into the crevices. Any larger gaps might need a second application as it will shrink a little. Finish off with two top coats of the acrylic. Let all applications dry well each step although you can caulk within a couple of hours of primering if it is fairly warm and dry day out. You might want to wait until it warms up a tad if you are in a colder climate. The brushes mentioned are a good brush for you as well. I prefer a sash brush for all applications, but a good cutting in type brush 1 to 1-1/2" would be easy for you to handle. Purdy makes a good brush, I would recommend the chinex bristled brush. They are pricy but will last you a lifetime if you take care of them. If this is a one time project and you do little painting or not much more in your future, then go with a less expensive nylon bristled brush. Clean often as you go and clean well before storing.

Hi suseyb, I too do diaper laundry (10 years of it total). I have a front load machine and have tried every dang detergent know to man to clean these things ha. What I have found that powders work better (as you have said) and I do add sttp to every load since I have hard water and love how it also boosts the detergent. Biokleen has a lot of sodium precarbonate in it that will cause fading over time. I only use cotton or hemp type of cloth diapers and have some black hybrid fitted diapers that have faded over the years due to using detergents like biokleen. My favorite detergents for cloth diapers that are on the natural side is method and puracy however they are plant based and need hot water (also only liquids). What I have been using for cloth diapers that I do love is all stainlifter (in the blue box) powder that I get on amazon. Dreft works ok but for the price I would just rather use tide original powder which works well and for loads with dark diapers. The difference between dreft and tide is an added enzyme. I’m not paying 13 bucks for a 40 load box lol. I use cheer powder with great success for diapers that have darks in them. It don’t contain ob so it helps keep the dark clothing dark (I get that on targets website, 120 load box for 15.99. Cheaper than Walmart). I do what you do, do a prewash (I use hot for it and run a whites cycle with 1/2 the amount of detergent then bulk up the load with hand towels or washcloths and run a bulky hot cycle and everything comes out so clean, fresh smelling and stain free and has for many years. My water heater is set very high to 140 and my washer gives me true hot water (unbelievable right lol). As for biokleen I would keep that one for your white or light loads and find something for diapers.