I recently removed popcorn ceilings from my entire house (all rooms including closets, bathrooms, hallways.) The painter we hired, had his men scrape off the popcorn then smeared some sort of texture on the ceiling. After that they put on one coat of paint. So now, the ceilings have a swirly texture (which is common in Florida). They also sprayed something on the walls which produced an orange-peel effect and then painted. I know they didn't prime the ceilings. They used this stucco-type stuff and painted. It looks good. Jane

JudyG Designs what is a light warm grey that has the right undertones to minimize the heavy yellow in the antique white? My plan right now will be to keep the cabinets the antique because this is the 2nd time they've been painted (the first time the lady did a terrible job and I had to fire her and have her work removed) so I am worried about painting them a 3rd time. So I will paint the walls a light color that compliments the cabinets and gives them a whiter appearance. Paint the trim the antique to remove any stark white, paint the door a dark grey with the right warm undertones, the ceiling creamy white and next year we will replace the back splash to something simple that is either mix of white and cream or like a creamy herringbone. What do you think?

Hi - not a professional, but I had to move a couple pendants in my kitchen and the area was patched and painted, but not the entire ceiling. You could see where the new paint was for a little while but it eventually faded to match the rest. However, the pendants I moved had only been up for a few months so maybe that’s why the new paint eventually blended?

If you look at the undertones in your hard surfaces (floor and countertops) you are dealing with a pinkish beige in the floor and yellow on the countertop. I don't think it works to try and use every color on the color wheel (red-brown on the floor, yellow on the countertop, now blue yellow on the walls). So the green works with the countertop, obviously, being green walls (= blue+yellow). So you could paint the floor, like with a garage paint, that is tough as nails. Then I think you'd be much happier with your green walls. I think your undertones in your trim is throwing things off too. In fact, if you get your hands on a Sherwin Williams paint fan deck, they set up their colors in the color wheel format: purple-blue-green-yellow-orange-red) which is fabulous obviously. So you find paint that matches your fixed elements (floor and countertop) and then select colors from their "neigborhood", in your case, you'd be hanging on the yellow-orange-red side of the deck. It is when you try to match opposite sides of that paint fan deck that you run into the issues you are seeing with your room colors. White also has the same undertones. So again, if you are using a "blue" white like snowbound, you will run afoul of your yellow countertop. You might be happier with a more yellow white like Westhighland white. By the way, the green paint has a blue-ish tint to it, so a warm white, like the countertops, won't look as good. It will make whatever the brown element look tired and old. If you leaned into a warmer green, more of an olive, it would be more cohesive, but that won't address the color in the floor. You would have to "lean into" the color of the fixed elements if you aren't going to replace them. Next time you go to the paint store, especially Sherwin Williams, look at their paint chip color wall and notice the color wheel in their display. And if you are picking colors from opposite ends of that wall, just know you might have issues.