Hello bob123how, Your doing fine with hardening them off. That was a good idea to punch holes a few at a time in the "cube of death." In any event, just water them, leave them in good light, and leave them alone for days at a time. You will be surprised at how well plants do when people aren't hovering over them all the time. You don't really need to suck the air out of the cube. Just punch the holes and make them bigger over time and more numerous until you can safely remove the dome like you did. Hubert sounds like he will be O.K. He just needs a couple of weeks to recover. His new leaves should dew normally. In any case, it is good light, not humidity, that allows a sundew to produce glue on its tentacles. Do not worry about insects to feed your plants yet. They can and will live for a long time without prey. Just let them recover for a few weeks first. D. adleae can and will catch a lot of gnats, mosquitoes, and fruit flies on their own. If they do not catch anything for a month, you can place them a few feet from a patio light when it gets dark and they will catch plenty of insects that blunder into their leaves. Just don't leave them out there for too long or they might overeat. One or two small insects a month is sufficient for carnivorous plants. Light, mineral free water, acid soil, good drainage, and normal room temperatures around 75 degrees fahrenheit are the first considerations to growing carnivorous plants. They are just like normal plants, just specialized to catch their fertilizer while it is still alive. Never fertilize the soil of your plants, their roots will burn and rot. One other thing, now that you have two D. adelae, I hope you bought a lot of pots and have a lot of space. They reproduce themselves by root runs, so every few months you will see several plantlets growing around the parent. The parent plants only live a couple of years, but their offspring grow fast and continue the cycle over and over again like rabbits multiplying. My D. adelae produced 10 new plants that are mostly half grown in only a few months time. The adult plants will flower, but produce no seed as they are all clones that need cross pollination with genetically different plants. After flowering, an old adult plant will die slowly as it produces new clones of itself from it's roots. These plants are actually considered a weed due to their prolific growth patterns. You can chop an entire plant back and you will get six more just like it in a month or two sprouting from the old roots. Just one Lance Leaf Sundew became 10 new plants in under 4 months.

I think it is possible to go overboard, or be lured overboard, by the grooviness of a ''digital'' oven temperature setting. When you set the digital oven control to ''325F'', most ovens don't actually hold 325F, they turn on and off and the temperature swings around. ''On'' at something like 300F and ''off'' at something like 350F. That assumes the oven is perfectly calibrated which often isn't the case. With that much error and fluctuation, the apparent precision of setting the digital control to ''325F'' versus the apparent imprecision of turning a knob to ''325F'' is - well, it is an illusion. If precise oven temperature really matters, you'd want to use an oven thermometer placed in the same spot as the food. But does it matter? Does the food really care if the temperature is swinging around in a range of 300F to 350F, or would a range of 285F to 335F, or a range of 315F to 365F, work just as well? I really doubt it matters. You're not going to cook anything to an internal temp much over 200F anyway, so the oven temp just determines how much time it takes to get to the desired internal temp, and how browned the exterior gets by then. But those are very much influenced by the food (size? thickness? moisture?) and the cooking method (covered pot? foil? rack?). Bottom-line, the fancy digital temperature controls may sell ranges but I don't think they help cook food. I'd personally not care about that feature. The timer feature would be more important to me, not so much for cooking food but to ensure that I don't accidentally leave the oven on all night.

Right before you got the error message was your system cooling ok? It is very rare that you would have a communication error message and a refrigerant problem at the same time. I have seen first hand a few communication errors and they were all related to the control wire. Sometimes I have redo the 2 data wires on the plug that goes to the air handler and the plug for the condenser electronic board. If the wire are not snug you can get a communication error. Next make sure when they check your refrigerant that it is above 80F I prefer in the afternoon with no moisture(dew) or rain. Your system must be running in high speed for proper sub cooling charging.

Evan, my God, that's hot. Is it humid too or dry air? That makes a huge difference. It was 94 here Saturday and then by Sunday, 54 all day. I was freezing from being miserably hot the day before. My poor trees. Finally temps are just perfect for them. The next ten day speaks of 70's by day and mid fifties by night. Just perfect! Jinny, I finally got a good rain storm Sunday and now all of a sudden I an getting all this awesome green growth for the first time since last year! I love it. I hope my trees don't have to rely on tap water from the hose all summer. It does them no good except that it keeps them alive. Atheen, the vinegar keeps my trees well fertilized and very vivid green. You should see the difference without it. In fact, I think I will take pics of my trees not fed vinegar for weeks. vinegar acidifies my fertilizer solution making all the nutrients available at all times. I have finally stop being lazy about it. Laura, great news. It's about time. Seems to be most problems for every one dissipate once they are outside in warmer temps)