Home Building Abberley Lane, Another 'Newbie' asks for help
mstnarabs654
17 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (81)
jagerace
15 years agomydreamhome
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Another newbie: Pond planning
Comments (12)I wonder if you only heard "extension cord"? An extension cord is not to code and not desired. However, I've often installed small ponds using conduit and run the pump cord thru the conduit to the outlet. Pumps can come with very long cords, 15'. Running the cord thru the conduit keeps everything neat and safe. Your contractor could get away with no conduct and just bury the cord because most are rated for burial. But conduct makes it easy to replace a pump later. Tie a string to the male plug, pull the pump out and the cord out thru the pond. Untie the string, tie onto new male plug and pull the string thru the conduit along with the power cord. Sounds like a good contractor and I can count on one hand the number of times I've said that. Having an outlet next to a small pond is something I try to avoid. They're a little hard to hide imo. If the pond is changed later it often has to be moved. But OK if needed. Now for the myths...and there are many. I'm assuming you'll have a few goldfish and aren't planning on koi. 5' diameter, 3' and you want simple. Good news is simple is also the easiest way to keep a pond. People on the web are bored and like to make pond keeping as complex as possible so they have something to talk about. Retailers like complex as possible so they have something to sell, and boy do they have stuff to sell. 1. If you're in a retail store to buy anything other than feeder goldfish or food you are going to make your life very complex. 2. Steep sides protecting fish from predators is a myth. It only sounds good and for many people that's good enough. Raccoons can pin a fish to the side vertical pond wall no problem. Herons, including Night Herons, have no problem jumping into a pond after fish or taking one on the wing. Plenty of YouTube videos showing that and I've seen Great Blues do it in an 8' deep pond (was a pool). 3. Marginal plants do not need to be submerged. When the label says submerged 6" or 12" they're taking about the max depth the plant can take. All marginals do much better in damp soil than submerged. And your life gets much easier too. String algae will often grow in and around the plants and getting it out is pretty much impossible. With no plants in the pond pulling out string algae is very easy. Plant pots on a shelf don't stay on a shelf. Little wind and over they go, dumping stuff all over your pond. And pots are raccoon magnets because looking under rocks for food is what they do for a living. If picking pots out of your pond every few weeks and trying to get the soil/media out doesn't sound like fun I concur. Water lilies and floating plants are the only plants that have to be inside the pond. In general these don't have the raccoon and algae issues. Completely submerged plants also, but these make life harder for you. 4. Plants do not add O2 to the pond, at least in any meaningful way. They consume O2 at night so the net result is water O2 is higher without plants. Not saying you shouldn't add plants, I'm saying adding them to increase O2 is a myth. Water Gardens are fine with plants because they don't have high fish loads. 5. Bio filters are almost never needed in a Water Garden. There are few enough fish that the pond by itself is bio filter enough. But buying an ammonia test kit is a good idea. Seeing a growing level of ammonia that isn't explained by water changes is when you need to consider adding a bio filter. Bio filters are easy to add later. 6. Mechanical filters (pads, sponge, etc) are pretty much worthless. Yes they will collect crap, and it does look like a lot when you clean them, but 99% of the crap stays in the pond. Way more effective in your size pond to just use a net and scoop around the pond bottom every week or so in the summer. You'll remove more and stir the bottom which helps break down small stuff. Emptying a new is sooooo much easier than cleaning these crappy filters sold to new pond owners. 7. Pumps are not required, but are very nice to have and does improve water quality. 8. Skimmers aren't just for leaves. Water surface tension allows dust to settle on the surface. It can make the water look dull. Skimmer fixes that. If you have a water falls it can produce foam on the surface and a skimmer helps reduce the build up of foam on the water. I like a catch basin under the fall to totally eliminate foam and makes the surface still for better fish viewing. Personally I think a skimmer is a good investment. I build my own so I can place the pump behind the skimmer basket for the basket acts as my pre-filter. I like the pump up high. Easier to check and a pump on the bottom can drain a pond if something goes wrong. 9 Shade does indeed reduce algae growth...but not enough that you would notice. Whether it takes 20 or 22 days for string algae to become a problem doesn't really matter. Or whether a pond is sea green or forest green doesn't really matter, the pond is still green and unacceptable. 10. You didn't mention it but plants also don't use enough nutrients to starve algae to death. Adding plants increases the amount of nutrients in a pond in almost every case thanks to the soli/media/fertilizer we add. One good thing plants do normally bring is string algae. Algae species battle each other different ways and one is by producing chemicals that make the water toxic to some other species of algae. They're why clear ponds stay clear although they almost never get the credit. 11. UV filters are sized to keep a clear pond clear. If you wait until the pond is green you might need a bigger UV, although with a bypass and slowing the water thru the UV they can often clear a pond. The most likely time you'll get green water is during the initial startup. If you can get some plants into the pond, even if only temporary, string algae will likely come along for the ride and maybe get the upper hand and be able to stop green water algae from ever getting started. That's hit or miss. Green water algae also produces a chemical to kill string algae so the plants have to be there when water is added. But if you don't want to screw around a UV is your best investment. They can often be turned off after a month or two. The UV kills the green water algae so no chemicals to stop string alage (actually all macro algae) from getting established. Macro algae will appear on its own, spores float in the air, but can have a difficult time growing in green water. Waterfalls can help macro algae establish even in green water sometimes. UVs can just be turned off. In some climates there are sometimes special instructions. When starting them up after being off for awhile it's a good idea to remove the glass sleeve that has the bulb inside and make sure that's clean. Also, these glass sleeves can sometimes cloud over, like a lime deposit but it isn't lime. This can happen after just a few hours of use. It's rare, but if water doesn't clear it's something to check. It's easy to clean off and surprising doesn't seem to repeat. I've only seen it once. The most important advice I give is to not believe the most popular "facts". We live in a much different age than even 20 years ago. There used to be a filter on info. Now everyone's fantasy is presented as fact. It's getting harder everyday to wade thru the mountains of crap info. I think it's actually probably impossible. And that is by far the biggest cause for ponds to be filled in....See Morenewbie question - building permit & codes
Comments (15)A deep pond with vertical walls will go a long way in predator control. Once in a while you will get a heron who learns to just stand quietly at the side and spear the fish when they surface, but I have never had it happen here. And I have lots of big herons fly over almost every day. I have shade sails over the pond so that may help some as well. Kingfishers don't care how deep the pond is though. They sit in a near-by tree and watch for a fish to surface, then dive in and get it. Comorants, Anhingas, and Ospray fish like that too. But I have never had an issue with any of those birds either. So you are new to koi keeping? Are you building this pond yourself or having someone build it for you? Do you understand the use of bottom drains that tie into filtration to keep the pond bottom clean? A koi pond, in otherwords a pond designed to provide the optimal environment for koi, differs greatly from a water garden. A properly designe koi pond can be VERY low maintenance. My biggest pond is 9000 gallons yet maintenance takes only 15 minutes a week at the most. You are in the perfect position to plan this thing out now and make it a wonderful habitat for the koi. I am attaching a link to a pond forum that I moderate on. There are some pretty good pond construction threads there with loads of pictures. Check it out if you get a chance. My newest pond building project is there, along with some good DIY filters and such. Here is a link that might be useful: The pond forum...See MoreWanting to build a greenhouse, complete newbie..
Comments (26)Ok Thanks to all and the constructive criticism I really have a thick skin and can take it!! I will try to address all concerns addressed so that others and myself can benefit from my mistakes made . "I am more concern about the structural concept. If there is not enough cross bracing, any small movement due to foundation shifting or wind load can pop the glass panels out and do some serious damage to occupants. " The building was built like any other normal building frame style. Everything is built then the glass is added and capped for finish. After that its all sealed so any water cant get thru. On the north wall there is a 24inch section of plywood from the floor up for extra strength. Combine that with the plywood gables there is no movement at all. Its built like a brick you know what before the glass goes in. "There is not a lot of detail in the photos for comments. I can see the sheet metal cladding on the wood. I am not sure that¡¦s a good idea. Have a vapor barrier on the cold side of a humid environment can be problematic." Just ask Ill gladly get you more pictures of any detail you request. The aluminum on the wood is just to keep the water away from the wood and clean up the appearance. I donÂt heat the GH in the winter. Its used more as a storage shed in the off season. All vents are left open and the screen door is also left open to disperse any heat in the winter months. "overall, the design does look impressive and admittedly, I was being overly hard on it. But, recheck your calcs for "structural" glass construction. ;) BTW, If you're still interested in exploring a post + beam framed greenhouse, I've designed quite a few timber framed buildings - many with attached passive solar sunspaces utilizing true post+beam joinery and patio door glass panels, in both vertical and sloped glazing applications. Email me if you'd like to see completed project photos and perhaps share some details." I appreciate the honesty it actually helps me learn. I would also love some help on the "calcs" of the glass install it self. Is the Half inch flange of metal not enough in your opinion? Remember the kerf deal is long gone. The aluminum acts as a kind of glazing strip..Please by all means advise of any other way that may help others reading this.! On the roof itself the glass lays flat on the wood surface with a 1 inch space in between glass panels (lots o silicone). I then screw a 1x3 in between the glass sections so the wood overlaps the glass.At the top of the roof there is about 8 inches of plywood sheeting due to the fact the glass wasnt long enough. So I made the glass start from the eves up as opposed from the top down.I honestly think I gained major strengh this way I then cap over wood for apearance only on the roof. I would also love to review any post+beam joinery and patio door glass panels, in both vertical and sloped glazing applications now your talking!! This is something that I have always wanted to figure out. the next house perhaps!! Let me know what you have in mind....See MoreAnother Newbie - Many questions
Comments (24)I live in Orlando too and went organic about 18 months ago. I fired my lawn spray company after getting hit with crabgrass and cynch bugs last year. - those last pictures are crabgrass and you just need to rip it out. You can spray it, but still you have to put something down. We get a lot of rain this year and cg loves rain. Rip it out, replace with sod. It will spread fast so rip or spay asap. This is what I did and worked ok for me. - March - Depending on the ground temp, above 50 for a few days I put down 60 lbs of CGM. You can get this at Palmer's Feed store (2 locations - one downtown and the other close to Baldwin Park - look in the phone book and call them before going over there. They might have to order the CGM. It is expensive 54 dollars for 40 lbs. Also, the bag I got a few days ago really stunk because it was wet. I wish I had not bought it since it stunk up my garage. But it was their last bag. If that stuff is not wet there is no smell. I did get great results preventing crabgrass for about 3 months. Then the rains hit and I have crabgrass on the low spots. I just rip it out by hand. But for me CGM worked pretty well. - Soybean Meal - I put down in June. Good Results. Dark Green grass. I get it from Farm City downtown. Call them and they will order it if not in stock. (50 lbs for 18 dollars) - Alfalfa Meal - I get it from Farm City too. They usually carry it. (50 lbs for 18 dollars). It comes in a pellet form so you just toss it around on your yard. It has a very nice smell to it. All of these grains put down as soon as you get them. You don't need mice etc..in your garage. Then water it in after you put it down. The alfalfa gets big then breaks down after you water it. - Corn Meal - I found the Carribean Store over in Pine Hills carries this product (50 lbs for 18 dollars, always in stock). We had a lot of rain and I put down 100 lbs to prevent fungus. No fungus problems. - Milorgite - I got from HD - 12 dollars for 40lbs. I just put down 40 lbs of CGM yesterday to see if it will control the "winter weeds" and crabgrass. Dead Spots - Last year I had some dead spots from the cynch bugs and I just ripped out the sod and put down some black cow (4 dollars a bag) and then new sod. This worked very well. Also, put some milorgite down on the new sod too. Weeds - My worse areas are the low spots and get swamp grass. I've been raising those spots by sand and/or ripping out the old grass and raising with black cow/dirt. Water - I try avoid over watering. We had a lot of rain this summer so if you are careful you can time it right. Crabgrass loves the water so if you over water you will get Crabgrass. The swamp weeds are a real pain and you can rip them out or spray with weed killer. If you kill it, you have to replace it with grass or it will just grow back. You might notice some areas don't need water whereas others do. Just use your hose vice watering everything. This past summer we got a lot of rain and my grass got a "lime green" color. I used milorgnite to bring it back. I don't really care for the ironite stuff. One mistake I made was not getting the soil test. I just keep putting it off. I'll do it this winter. My experience going organic has been ok. It is not cheaper than using the commercial lawn care companies, but my grass looks better than most of the lawns around me. I like the results of the CGM and soybean meal. I mow at the highest setting and obtain good results. - SOD - A pain getting good sod. I call HD or Lowes and they usually get it twice a week. Call first. Then look at it when you get it. If it's dry, skip it and wait till the next shipment. Putting down the black cow then the sod works well. It is usually about 1.40 per piece. - Some other things I played around with were spraying molasses on the lawn to see if it prevents/kills sod web worms. I noticed the moths flying around a few weeks ago and sprayed it down. I don't see very many moths now. After I get the results of the soil test I'll make the necessary adjustments. I would guess you can get used coffee grounds from Starbucks but that sounds too messy for me. Next year, depending on costs, I will use more soybean meal since I like the nice green results. It's a long process so just take your time and do it the best you can without losing sleep over it. If costs are a concern you could do the front first since that is what everyone sees and then work on the side as time goes on. Good Luck!...See Morekier_abberly
15 years agosablelee
15 years agofourkidz
14 years agoquadfather
14 years agomydreamhome
14 years agokimberlysaint
13 years agomichelle7560
12 years agoForeverhome
12 years agograya
12 years agorfelty
11 years agocarsonheim
11 years agotseago
11 years agocarsonheim
11 years agotseago
11 years agokariromero
10 years agokirkhall
10 years agoSimplyHometo7
10 years agomrsfarmer83
9 years agocarsonheim
9 years agoSeriouslyMel
9 years agokatielandis
9 years agoEAL0704
9 years agoCourtney Whitehead
8 years agoJohn Tee Architect
8 years agoCourtney Whitehead
8 years agoJohn Tee Architect
8 years agoCourtney Whitehead
8 years agoJenny Moore
8 years agocori vavricek
8 years agoGreg Daves
8 years agolisaworrell1234
8 years agoNash
7 years agomillworkman
7 years agoNash
7 years agoCourtney Whitehead
7 years agomillworkman
7 years agoJeff Cannon
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCourtney Whitehead
7 years agoJeff Cannon
7 years agoCourtney Whitehead
7 years agoCarrie Steele
6 years agoPamela Casey
last yearcsutcliffe
last yearPamela Casey
last yearcsutcliffe
last yearPamela Casey
last yearHU-492729530
2 months agocsutcliffe
2 months ago
Related Stories
MATERIALSWhat to Ask Before Choosing a Hardwood Floor
We give you the details on cost, installation, wood varieties and more to help you pick the right hardwood flooring
Full StorySMALL HOMESAsk an Expert: What Is Your Ultimate Space-Saving Trick?
Houzz professionals share their secrets for getting more from any space, small or large
Full StoryMOST POPULAR10 Things to Ask Your Contractor Before You Start Your Project
Ask these questions before signing with a contractor for better communication and fewer surprises along the way
Full StoryORGANIZINGHelp for Whittling Down the Photo Pile
Consider these 6 points your personal pare-down assistant, making organizing your photo collection easier
Full StorySMALL SPACESDownsizing Help: Storage Solutions for Small Spaces
Look under, over and inside to find places for everything you need to keep
Full StoryStorage Help for Small Bedrooms: Beautiful Built-ins
Squeezed for space? Consider built-in cabinets, shelves and niches that hold all you need and look great too
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESSo You Want to Build: 7 Steps to Creating a New Home
Get the house you envision — and even enjoy the process — by following this architect's guide to building a new home
Full StoryEARTH DAYHow to Build a Greener Driveway
Install a permeable driveway to keep pollutants out of water sources and groundwater levels balanced
Full StoryWOODWORKING7 Must-Have Measuring Tools for Woodworking
Whether you're a newbie DIYer or building cabinets from scratch, using the right woodshop tools makes all the difference
Full StorySMALL HOMESHouzz Tour: An Illinois Loft Sparks Renovation Fever
Home improvement newbies (and newlyweds) find joy and a new income source while redoing their space themselves
Full Story
mnthorse