Another newbie: Pond planning
ddeuerme
9 years ago
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Holly_ON
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoddeuerme
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Semi-Newbie Making a hypertufa pond, help asap, please!
Comments (9)Hello Mike, thanks for responding.ÃÂ The pond will be at least 3" thick all around, I've pre molded the chicken wire so that I can just slip it on once I do my first layer of mix (about 1/2" to 1" thick) then finish it with another 2" of the mix (to ensure coverage of the wire), and for added strength. The pond will be above ground and on short squat "feet" made of concrete. The reason's for using hypertufa; I love the rustic charm of it, it would still be lighter than making it out of all cement, and using perlite instead of vermiculite will give me a "granite" kind of look. ÃÂ I did a test run using the sandy dirt from my yard to try and figure out how much of my 4 ingredients I will need. I don't have a problem re-sealing it but is there a clear coat "paint" to use instead of sealer? ÃÂ Can I add another fiber and which kind for added strength?? ÃÂ How long would you guessti ate for total curing time?? I will be pitching a tent over it to keep it from direct sun. Can one of those odjob concrete barrel mixers be used to mix the hypertufa? Thanks for any and all assistance....See MoreNewbie with New Pond Questions
Comments (6)We have about the same size system as you, Chris, & Cliff/Joann, 2500 glns, 12 ft. head, not quite as long a run, although we use a skimmer with a small filter, not the bottom drain. Our falls drop the water into a steam bed near an upper pool, then water falls over a dividing falls between the small upper pool and the larger lower pool. The skimmer housing located at the end of the water's run (lower pool) has the pump in the bottom. The only way I've ever seen it done was to PUSH water from the pump up to the Bio-Filter. We didn't use a stand alone prefilter because we just didn't think both a mechanical filter and a bio-filter, a stand-alone bio-filter, was necessary, especially with no koi planned. IMO if you are using a bio-mech filter wouldn't you want to go with the manufacturers recommendation on sizing and pumping through it? I would think there might be an issue or two with how well it filters if you pump to fast or too slow; I could see there being a wide range available though (re: flow rate). We use an Atlantic 1500 BF (wish it was bigger) has plenty of room for the filter media at the bottom where the water typically enters the open-air chamber. Our bare-root and gravel-filled meshpots go on top of the filter media. We actually have two pumps in our skimmer box: one goes to the bio-falls; the other one goes to a discharge pipe right below the weir and creates a rapids effect... gives us a way of changing up the rate of water into our stream bed by turning on and off the rapids pump....See MoreThe Hokey Pokey Pond - A Newbie's Adventure
Comments (16)Love your pond and kitty that is 'on guard'!I would like to suggest some trailing plants to help hide your hardware. Some that come to mind is verbena, blooms all summer in my garden, also vinca vine grows well, but if it gets loose on the ground can be invasive. If you plant them in their own pot, they are easier to control.Those wave petunias would also give lots of color...good luck and keep posting those pictures!...See MorePond newbie - Buying home with 3000 gallon pond
Comments (16)LOL, chas. You are correct, the initials do stand for Dept. of Natural Resources. As can be expected there are a lot of those alphabet agencies out there that may or may not be helpful. Which one has helpful info. in your area varies in the extreme. Some are identical to other agencies that have totally different objectives. Then there are private companies that want to sell you something. Mokitty, there is no reason in the world why a holding pond, retention pond, dew pond cannot be ornamental. From what I see in the photos, someone has tried to do that in the past and has recently let it go. Recently being totally subjective. The grasses around the pond can be cut back, the old bridge removed or replaced, wild shrubs and other plants identified and volunteer saplings removed. That should keep you busy for a while. Cutting back the grasses will help control the number of migratory ducks that use the pond.I wouldn't mention the ducks to anyone but the Extention service and would be cautious even there. They might prevent you from doing anything that might change the current function of the pond including cutting the grass. The Environmental Protection Agency is well known for that. Avoid them if possible. Here are some sites that look like they can give you decent info on the purpose of your pond. http://www.gotalgae.com/retention_ponds.htm coastalwaterwatch.com/product2121.htm http://www.co.monmouth.nj.us/documents/61/Stormwater%20Management%20Basins.pdf Call the DNR and the Extension service and specifically ask "Do you have any material related to small retention ponds or dewponds and wildlife habitat?" This is one of those projects that may or may not require lots of planning and/or physical intervention. For now, look for traces of a previous pathway to the pond and improve that. Starting at the bridge may go faster. Observe what the weather does to the water level. Keep track of water levels for as long as you can, months are better than weeks and compare them with rainfall. See what happens to the pond and the surrounding area during and after a heavy/light rain. Locate and clear any over/outflow. Identify grasses and other plants. They may have been chosen for specific purposes such as erosion control, wildlife cover, food source, etc. Tall grasses may prevent debris from overwhelming the pond. Search for electric hookups. Do they even exist? Is there a bad odor like sewage that would indicate dredging for organic matter is needed and the pond is deficient in oxygen. Float something on the surface to see if there is any sort of water movement. You might find that overflow where your float ends up. Check the soil on the outside of the pond and on the inside of the pond to see if it is the same. Are there lots of rocks on the sides of the pond? How deep is the mulm/debris on the bottom? Did the former owners leave any pond equipment behind? Get the water tested or get a testing kit and do it yourself. No strips. They just don't give good readings. There are people out there who can do the hard work of cleaning out the pond for a hefty price. Before you hire them, know enough about what the pond does that it will be you in charge. Ask questions. There are enough posters here to answer most questions or who will send you where you can get the right answers. I hope this has not overwhelmed you....See MoreHolly_ON
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoddeuerme
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoHolly_ON
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoddeuerme
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agowaterbug_guy
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agowaterbug_guy
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoddeuerme
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agowaterbug_guy
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoddeuerme
9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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