Kawasaki 3/4" X 16 threads Gasket 2.475"OD 2.173"ID 0.233" thick. Length" Wix Purolator Hastings Baldwin AC MotorCraft JD Walmart 2.98" 51394 L14476 LF410 B33 PF1233 FL836 AM107423 ST4967 3.4" 51396 L14477 LF413 B37 NA NA NA ST4386 WIX makes NAPA Gold and CarQuest Blue filters. (identical except for the paint job) For a NAPA filter, use the last 4 digits of the Wix# For a CarQuest filter, replace the first 2 digits of the Wix# with 85. Example. Wix 51348 becomes CarQuest 85348 or NAPA Gold 1348. Scag doesn't make filters. For engine oil filters, just pick a good quality one. The Mobil I filter is a good one, made by Champion. Hydraulic filters can be a mixed bag. Some are near impossible to find in an after market version, while some just use an automotive type that can easily be crossed over. SCAG specifies a 10 micron hydraulic filter. Go to the WIX website- and enter 51259. http://www.wixfilters.com I Think that's the hydraulic filter, but look at the details to be sure. 5.5" long X 3.67" dia. 1"X12 thread Gasket Diameter O.D. I.D. Thk. 2.834" 2.462" 0.275"

"Briggs/Kohler type" 3/4" X 16 threads 8-11 PSI Bypass Gasket 2.734"OD X2 .430"ID 0.226" thick Length" Wix Purolator Hastings Kohler B&S Baldwin MotorCraft AC 2.3" 57035 NA LF503 2805001 492932 B7165 NA NA? 2.7" 51056 L35310 LF302 1205001 492056 B1410 NA PF2210 3.4" 51348 L10241 LF157 5205002 491056 BT223 FL793 PF53 4.8" 51516 L20195 LF134 NA NA B243 FL400A PFL400A WIX makes NAPA Gold and CarQuest Blue filters. (identical except for the paint job) For a NAPA filter, use the last 4 digits of the Wix# For a CarQuest filter, replace the first 2 digits of the Wix# with 85 Example. Wix 51348 becomes CarQuest 85348 or NAPA Gold 1348

"In your case - i assure you its being washed away into your oil." Well I pretty much doubt that and I can give you some reasons if need be but I can see the point about the heat perhaps softening it. This was a idea put forth sometime ago by someone else that I adapted thinking it might help. Incidentally several people report having used it and not had a further problem with the studs loosening. "What would you suggest? Diassembling the valves to see if they have been destroyed?" I wrote a length response to this but for some reason, it didn't make the list. It went something like this. There is a correct way to adjust the valves.IF you are absolutely sure you have been adjusting the valves properly, correctly, then perhaps you should pull the head off and see what is going on with the valves and valve seats. There are a couple of things yet that I have questions about. When you adjust the valves, where and to what spec. are you torquing the locking mechanism? "I continually need to readjust after each time I mow even though i do use thread lock." What are you saying here? You said you were using Loc-tite on the Rocker Arm Studs where they go into the head. Are you saying that they are loose each time? IF so, to what spec. are you torquing them? Walt Conner

First of all, electric, propane, and coil costs vary across the country. You need to research the rates for each fuel in your area and make a decision accordingly. I will warn you to watch out for propane though; that stuff is pricey and may end up costing you more to run than oil. The equipment sizing in your quotes is indeed all over the map and you need to look into that. The way Manual J load calculations work is: garbage in, garbage out. Assuming all the contractors actually did Manual J and not some other load calc, the only explanation for the different sizing is that they used different values. I would ask to see the calculations so you might be able to see why they vary so much. 40K Trane (TUH1B040), 60K Trane (TUH1B060), 80K Bryant, 85K Thermo Pride, 100K Thermo Pride, what a mess. Actually the 100K Thermo Pride and 80K Bryant will be similar in output because of the differences in efficiency, but the other quotes are all over the place. As for one Trane contractor saying the furnace needed to be moved to the attic and the other didn't, that could be because of physical size differences between the 040 and 060 models quoted? Not really sure what's going on there though. For the heat pump quotes, you are seeing air handlers quoted larger than the outdoor units because the efficiency of the system is higher when you do that. You do sacrifice some dehumidification in the summer, though. Variable speed air handlers are more efficient than multi speed models, and are better at dehumidification. I would strongly recommend going with one if you can swing it. Comfort R is included on all Trane variable speed air handlers and is just a marketing term for the ramping profile on the blower for better dehumidification. It is an OK way to dehumidify, but a better way in my opinion is dehumidify on demand. This lets you set a humidity setpoint, and the system will slow down the variable speed blower when you go above it. You do not need to use a Trane thermostat for any of the system's functions to work. The Trane 803 is a rebranded Honeywell VisionPro 8000 which can only overcool to dehumidify, which is not optimal at all. I would want at least the VisionPro IAQ on any of the systems you were quoted with a variable speed blower. That way you will be fully taking advantage of the equipment you paid for. Heat strip sizing is covered in the Manual J load calculation. They say to size it to 80% of the whole heat load for the home. Some contractors prefer to size to cover 100% in cases where the heat pump fails and you need it to meet the whole load. I'm sure the companies would be happy to give you prices without the maintenance plan. That would be the first place I would go to cut costs. I am not really a Trane guy so can't comment on issues (or lack thereof) with the TAM7 Hyperion air handlers. Hopefully someone else here who works with Trane more can answer that. This post was edited by hvtech42 on Tue, Oct 14, 14 at 15:25