Julieann, When I started out, I tried to achieve the 3 to 1 ratio thing. I just eyeballed it and sprinkled with water after each layer. I THOUGHT I had it right :). But I think I just misjudged it. The first time that I had stock-piled a larger than usual amount of greens to add, it had also been raining quite a bit (for our area) and I thought....This might be too much and I bet it will be too wet. But it turned out that even though I added all of the stock pile and even added a wee bit more water, the pile stayed hot for a LOT longer than I had ever had it do before. The weather has been pretty miserable here since the last time I added to and turned the pile. A lot of cold cold and rain. Even so, it has stayed hot for about 3 weeks. I just noticed yesterday that the temp is down to about 100 and the pile has shrunk by about 1/3. All I know to tell you is to start out building it with what you feel like is 3 to 1. If it doesn't stay hot for very long, then start increasing. I feel like I am now actually judging it correctly whereas before I was unknowingly being too conservative with the greens. For instance, if you build your pile and it peaks and then starts dropping in temp within a week, I would add more greens than you did last time, at that time. Just keep doing that until you start achieving heat for much longer periods. It's also great in the respect that you are having to turn your pile and add greens to it much less frequently. I hope this helps and I found the whole process of fine tuning it to just be a personal learning experience. I am a firm believer that your particular location and environmental factors will make a huge difference in what works for you. For example, my pile is located in full sun and we are on a windy hill. This means that I have to take care to protect it from sun and wind in our extreme summers in order to keep it from drying out. Probably the same pile situated in the shade and in a protected area would not require the same protection. Kristi

Well harmful of not, I think rusty stuff is ugly!!....except for certain instances where is intentional, like in certain sculpture and buildings made from cor-10 steel, designed to rust and then stabilize, rather that other items that just have the rusty metal eat away at the integrity of the metal. I would scrub all the rust you can with a wire brush, then use an acid like Naval Jelly to really get rid of the stuff and paint with a rust preventing paint, like Rusteolum. But you will have to be vigilant, the rust can return if there is the least chip or scratch in the protective coating, and you will have to repeat your procedure. The thing about rust....you think it's gone, and it returns and eventually will completely destroy what it eats at. I gave up and bought a stoneware birdbath....no more rusty stuff!

I do not know the details of this process, but I have been told that the best way to remove rust while removing the least possible amount of metal is to blast the surface with ground walnut shells, in a process similar to sandblasting. This is how historic cast iron machinery at the Slater Mill in Pawtucket, Rhode Island (the birthplace of manufacturing in America) is conserved.

I`ve used a product that called oxisolve, it works good you spray it on an let it sit. This stuff is safe and easy to use. One gallon with last a long time it`s on the expensive side around $30.00 for a gallon. But it looks like this is getting to be a yearly repair. they have new products for treating rusty surfaces, but this is the only one I`ve used. This is what the web site says about this rust remover This specially formulated Rust Remover is a powerful, rust-fighting liquid created to meet the needs of auto restorers. It reaches even inaccessible areas, quickly dissolving iron oxide completely and leaving a zinc phosphate coating. Rust Remover can be sprayed, brushed, or used as a parts dip. It is non-toxic, non-flammable and reusable. I just used it to remove rust from a expensive commercial lawn mower deck, It`s treated now and just needs paint.Nice and smooth surface all the heavy rust deposits are gone.I also used it the treat a running board from my wifes grandfather model TT ford truck that was rusting away. It`s now painted satin black with wrought iron shelf brackets she uses it for her angel collection, looks nice on a wood paneled wall. Here is a link that might be useful: Eastwood