I don't think so. Unlacquered brass is hard to find and expensive. We committed to it when Baldwin made their images line in unlacquered brass. It was discontinued in December. We had already bought unlacquered brass hinges. We were going to do Baldwin Estate in the formal areas and Baldwin Images in the basement, upstairs, mud hall, etc. but that was no longer an option. The Images is the same quality but has a larger rosette and fewer options so it costs quite a bit less. The Estate knobs are beautiful and provide many more options but are expensive. We ended up doing Omnia knobs on the interior doors. Excellent quality but quite a bit of a cost savings. The Traditions line has beautiful things and offered a medium sized rosette that I liked better than the larger one or smaller one. We did Baldwin exterior hardware because I liked their options better and I liked their multipoint much better for our french doors. It was quite a bit more than the Omnia multipoint. The Omnia was pretty but didn't have the backplate I wanted. Emtek doesn't make unlacquered brass, although they will unlacquer it for a cost. I didn't want to get into that because I foresaw all sorts of problems, including it coming in lacquered and us not realizing it, etc. We ended up way over on door hardware because of the commitment to unlacquered brass. Funny - we did unlacquered instead of the Baldwin Estate pre aged unlacquered (which is beautiful!) to save some money - figuring it would get there pretty quickly. We ended up at that price point anyway but it was too late because we had already bought the hinges!

I have absolutely no issues with using the proclassic primer and didn't need to practice with it at all. I guess I just don't get that. I also have used many a brush, but like the nylon for this application. I don't have brush strokes...but I don't paint as much as a pro so perhaps it's use and use and use :) I think that people are reading the information in my clipping incorrectly. The COLOR code I put in there is for a color called Woodsey Brown which is an exterior color (you typically get more deep tones in exterior colors) but the PAINT is NOT and exterior paint. Just the color! The proclassic primer adhears to ANY surface, without sanding. I love the stuff because I've used it on some very glossy surfaces and it's held like magic! I do wash surfaces and make sure they're free of dust and dirt, but I rarely sand anymore. My professional painter was very skeptical but is now sold on the quality of these two products together. The primer is a gem, and the quality of the top coat is wonderful as well. I like a high quality finish and a strong finish as well...and together these two will give you that in any combination of colors ;)

Just did a condo reno with Saddlebrook Farmhouse. In certain qualities of light it can look peachy. In others, it looks more blonde. I managed the peachy away by changing lighting. With that said, I would not recommend this color unless you like the peachy-brown color. Go with the other one that has less pattern and is more brown. As far as a paint color plan that has the best odds of working together in a range of light sources and appealing to a lot of people, this is my go-to formula. I would never call it "fool-proof" but the odds are good. Ceiling color PPG's Delicate White. Wall color BenM's Revere Pewter or SW's Drift of Mist. Cabinets, doors and trim SW Extra White. If PPG paint is an option, it's good quality and value and they can match other brand's color. PPG's Break Through on cabinets, doors, and trim is a godsend because it dries and cures quickly. PPG's Pure Performance in eggshell is awesome for walls.

@Maggie By "air dry" were you maybe asking about "air fry?" That's is a boosted convection roast/bake function that is turning up on some ranges and wall ovens and is becoming a popular option for countertop ovens (f/k/a toaster ovens.). That Wolf countertop oven is priced at something like $750 to $850 which is very expensive for a countertop oven. For a temporary kitchen, you might want to look into one of the other highly rated and much less expensive brands such as Breville (IIRC, it's "Smart Oven Pro Air Fry" model is around $350 and there are less expensive versions if you don't care about "air fry" functions.) Cook's Illustrated/ATK, Wirecutter, and similar sites have recent reviews and recommendations if you want to consider alternatives to the Wolf. Beyond that, there are some questions to ask to help figure out what you can do for a temporary kitchen during the long down time. First one is how many electrical circuits will be available for you to use? That's entire circuits, not just separate outlets. Seems to me that may be the biggest constraint on what you can do for a temporary kitchen. Suggested cooking appliances like a portable induction cooktop (PIC) and countertop ovens --- those can be expected to use up to 1500 to 1800 watts when in use. That means they pretty much have to be the only thing on the circuit when they are running. While some commercial coil-burner hotplates can pull 1500 watts, lesser models can be had that only go to 1200 watts or even just 600 watts. Small microwaves, coffee makers, electric kettles, electric pressure cooker-multi-cookers (such as the Instant Pots), electric frying pans/griddles, waffle makers and such, generally pull 1200 watts or less, depending on the model. BTW, you'll want/need heavy duty extension cords -- at least 12 gauge AWG --- not lightweight lamp cord models you might use for a floor fan or a lamp. WIll you be able to run extension cords to other circuits when the contractor is not working in the rest of the condo? Are the available circuits rated for 20 Amps or the lesser but more common 15 Amps? That, too, affects your ability to run a couple of the temporary appliances together. There will be special logistical issues with a refrigerator. A refrigerator of any kind will have to be plugged in more or less all the time to work and will need a circuit with nothing else or very little else on it (maybe a table lamp?). That's less of an issue with a small "dorm fridge" as they have somewhat lesser power draws. You asked about using the full-size SxS model you want for the remodel since it is available now for delivery. You can use it if you and your contractor can figure out the logistics of where to put it. and where to plug it in. Will your "down to the studs" reno involve significant rewiring outside the bedroom and bath? (IOW, will there even be a circuit for a full size fridge any time soon?) Will there be a subfloor/sheathing it can sit on? You'll be looking for an available an electric circuit that won't be needed for power tools. Will your the contractor be willing to move that SxS around as needed for the reno work? FWIW, you can run an extension cord to elsewhere in your condo. While electrical codes prohibit long term use of extension cords for appliances like fridges, they do permit temporary use of them for situations like yours Can/will your contractor move the fridge around as work is being done and, if so, can the fridge be protected from the dust and debris of flooring, dry walling and other such work? Can't have it running while wrapped in plastic -- running fridges need space to expel heat and the mechanicals need a a rady supply of air. If it has to be shut down, will it be shut down for more than a few hours at a time? (Fridges are designed and insulated to be able to hold cold temperatures for some power outages, so can be shut off intermittently for a while, if needed.) Putting the fridge in the bedroom might avoid the protection issues, but, could it even fit through the bedroom doorway, is there space for it once in there, and will you be able to sleep with the compressor coming on periodically through the night as fridges do?