Do I understand correctly that to inspect/unplug weepholes, we will have to remove the stone around the drain? Is there any hope of doing that without destroying it? How do we unplug the weepholes? Are there any special tools required? It CAN be done, even as a DIY task. You need to cut the grout joints around the tiles you're going to remove, and then use a hammer and chisel. once you have the tiles out, you need to be very careful not to damage the pan membrane. All it takes is a pin prick, and the whole thing is coming out. Once you clear the weepholes, though, you need to tape them off and water test it before you put it all back together to make sure it's still watertight.

I'd prefer that more grout had been left in the joints. They look dished out a bit too much, where too much grout was removed during the cleanup phase. I'd have preferred the grout to be more flush with the face of the tile. Looking closely at the first two photos, the darkened grout lines are all parallel to one another. In the first photo you can see the wet grout lines are all parallel to the edge of the drain. That leads me to believe that the "uphill" edges of the tiles are acting like mini dams and holding water, they are preventing water from easily flowing downhill to the drain. The second closeup photo, you see the same effect. All the damp grout lines are again parallel to one another. Again, to me that reflects a drainage issue. Not necessarily with the amount of floor pitch, but with the grout lines being so dished out that they hold water and slow drainage. Marble is porous and can absorb water. With the grout lines being a bit too raked out, the edges of the marble hexes are exposed. Water held against the tile edge can lead to absorption into the marble. The crack in the grout in that second photo, you also wrote that there are other cracks. That's usually a sign of too much water used in the grout mix, or that sanded grout should have been used instead of unsanded. Unsanded should be used in joints less than 1/8" wide. Cracks can also indicate movement in the floor, but that shouldn't be an issue with a properly set Kerdi Tray. As far as him having used a preformed Kerdi-Tray, if he did, it appears that is was certainly cut down in an awkward manner. The drain is no where near centered in the shower. So if he did some filling here and there with mud or thinset to even out the floor pitch or edge elevations, that could have be part of the problem. But that's supposition on my part. About the only other thing I could question is that often times with small tiles, when the sheets are set into the thinset, thinset can ooze up between the hex tiles and partially fill the grout lines. That thinset needs to be cleaned out so the grout lines can be completely filled with grout. If it's not, you can get uneven thicknesses of grout, think of it as a veneer of grout over a blob of thinset. That can result in uneven water absorption, the grout cracking, etc. All that aside...with this being your second go-around, he should have install the sloped Kerdi Tray and thinsetted it to the subfloor. Then he should have set the Kerdi drain. Then he should have thinsetted Kerdi Membrane (an orange colored sheet material) over the Kerdi Tray, then tiled on the Kerdi Membrane. I'd be interested in how he tied the Kerdi Membrane in with the wall membrane IF he used Kerdi Membrane over the Kerdi Tray. Best. Mongo

How high are your ceilings? This will play into the size of your can lights. I have a very similar bathroom layout without the closet and a few other differences, but essentially the same. Are you sure you want the light directly over the toilet? Think shadows. My light is forward of the toilet, about where the blue line is in your drawing. I didn't think the cans would provide enough general illumination of the kind you want in a bathroom so I went with flush mounted fixtures with globes (repurposed antiques). I also have two 4" cans over the sinks - about a foot out from the wall. My ceilings are 9 feet and we might be over lit but everything is on dimmers and I love this bathroom! I also have a can over the shower (no tub). Be sure to mock up the sink, sconces and mirror on your wall. Make sure you can live with your mirror and sconces being off center of your sink. Maybe do a search on Houzz for bathroom sconces to see how others handle this asymmetry. Ditto what everyone else is saying about elbow room. I think you will end up wishing you had that extra room. I gave serious thought to a make up counter but just did not want to give up the elbow room so instead, and for the sake of practicality, I installed a hamper pull out. We haven't moved in yet, but I have no regrets. Edited to add: we have three sconces at the vanity. Maybe that wasn't clear.

Sorry but no fix for this . I have no idea why you would have left this job 1/2 finished unless it was a huge emergency.I hate to say it but the tile job looks a bit sloppy with different size grout lines and a poor layout in the corner and I also am wondering about how you waterproofed the space. Hard lesson to learn but this is a redo since you have now also scratched all the til so will be impossible to keep clean even if you found a miracle to remove the grout