I have converted several by just drilling out the jets. I don't think the heat value of the gas is as important as the difference between gas pressure from the propane regulator and gas line pressure. Problem may be in finding a set of number drills and determining how big to drill it.

The NG/Liability may mean that if the unit explodes after you convert it to natuarl gas, they don't want to hear about it. However, I suspect, depending on your state consumer laws, that if any mishap or injury that occurs that can be traced to a manufacturing or design defect could be assigned to Virco as a liability, regardless of what the paperwork that accompanies the kit says. I'm not a lawyer so don't take this as legal advice. Virco also would have no control over faulty natural gas building lines or extensions, so maybe this is what they are most concerned about, as well as improper kit installation. I think there is more danger in going from a natural gas setup to a propane setup, however, as propane packs 2.5 times the BTU's per volume as natural gas, and it's at a lot higher pressure, so if you hood up propane to a unit set up for natural gas, you can wind up melting it down or worse.

Totally with antss on that one -- you paid for a new, NG range -- not someone's screwup. In my opinion, the dealer should be jumping through hoops to resolve this for you with a new range delivered and installed, within 10 days (at worst -- you can get one shipped from coast to coast in that time), at no cost to you. "I felt mislead" -- you were -- this is called "deceptive sales practices" by many. If they hesitate at all, a call to Wolf, then the BBB and your credit card company if it needs further escalation.

Pull the dryer away from the wall so there's room for the console to rotate back while the top rests against the wall without falling forward. Open the lint screen lid and remove the two screws. The top is held down by two clips at the front corners. Slip a putty knife under the edge to depress the clips while lifting upward on the top. Raise the top completely up and back against the wall. Disconnect the door switch wiring harness plug. Remove the two screws from the inside of the cabinet front. Lift the front panel and unhook it from the hangers at the bottom corners. You may have to remove the drum for access to the ignitor and burner. The motor and idler pulley are on the right side toward the rear. Reach under the drum and push the idler pulley arm to release the spring pressure and remove the belt from the motor pulley. Remove the two LOWER screws holding the front bulkhead in place. LOOSEN the top two screws. Lift the bulkhead and unhook it from the top screw keyslots, remove it from the dryer. Lift the drum off the rear support rollers and remove it from the cabinet. You can slip the belt out from between the rear of the drum and the back bulkhead first, or remove the belt with the drum. Do whatever work you need in regards to installing the LP conversion kit. Reassemble the dryer. When reinstalling the drum, be sure the hole in the drum with the metal clip in it is toward the rear. Place the drum atop the rear support rollers. Make sure the rear felt seal is positioned properly. And make sure the belt is around the drum (not yet hooked around the motor pulley). Replace the front bulkhead, make sure the front support rollers are beneath the drum. Make sure the front felt seal is in proper position. Reach under the drum and hook the belt into place. Replace the cabinet front. Don't forget to reconnect the door switch wiring harness. Drop the cabinet top back into place. Replace the two screws under the lint filter lid. Hope I didn't miss anything.