We configured the hookups for our Wolf per the manual, but the shut-off was not as simple: code wanted it very near the range (one suggestion was in the back of a cabinet next to the range), but common sense was to put it futher away from the range. If the gas was being cut off for routine work, then it didn't matter how close the cut-off was to the range, but in an emergency it seemed nuts to have the cut-off very close to either where a fire was or a flash point for leaking gas would be. Since we were running a new line for the range anyway, we have a range cut-off in the basement (it's very nearby the kitchen).

For any of you considering a new American Range Performer 48", the gas hook-up is 32" up on the back of the range. This requires you to make a channel in the wall to accommodate the gas line connections so that the range can fit flush with the wall. Could be a bummer if you already have your walls finished.

I have a totally gas Viking range/oven from about 2000. It was in the home we purchased 2 years ago. I love it but the ovens seem to cook about 20 degrees too hot so I have to adjust for that. I just baked a pie in the smaller oven side, and the crust did not brown, so I had to turn the heat up and then it burned a little bit, but not bad. I never had this problems in the past with electric ovens. I think an oven thermometer will help me figure out how off the temps are. I also notice there is a lot of play in the temp control knob. Kind of strange not knowing what the temp knob is really set at. Just saying that I also have similar gas oven problems. :)

I tend to agree with asolo in that if you are that unfamiliar with gas piping you may want to get a pro involved. That being said, I can tell you a couple of things. There is no need for individual regulators in an NG system. The gas pressure is set at the house main. As to the mystery fitting on your supply line, without actually seeing it I can only surmise that it is prbably either a 5/8 or 3/4 flare adapter. If you have a digital camera and would like to email me a pic I can possibly tell for sure. What are you using to try and loosen the fitting? (I have found that WD works quite poorly as a loosening agent.) There is also the possibility that whoever installed the fitting may have used a hardening style pipe sealant which will complicate matters. If you have the room a couple of large wrenches with cheaters (pipes slid over the wrenche handles to provide more leverage) will, usually, break things free. Make sure to use 2 wrenches, one to turn the fitting and one to stabalize the supply line. I notice you don't mention a shut-off valve, I hope there is one or that you are going to provide one. Please be careful and weigh your options fully. If you are not comfortable working with gas lines you probably should get a pro.