Thanks for your replies and useful information. The typical box fans available locally are rounded ones, so I would have to had padded/filled in around them too. And I came across some more information about air stratification which got me to thinking about air flow, humidity and venting- some people have vents opening in the roof to release the hot air. This is a discussion where some one talks about horizontal air flow removing 'good' air with hot air staying up the top- though if you had the exhaust fan up at the highest point you would get more of the hotter air being removed I think: http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:AsuB1xJiPZYJ:www.orchidsafari.org/ghse/ghse1.html+greenhouse+exhaust+%22high+velocity+fan%22&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=au This is interesting in that I read about someone who installed a the exhaust fan on the opposite end wall to an evaporative cooler or wet wall which worked well to remove heat but also removed a fair bit of humidity. In contradiction I've read turbine ventilators do remove humidity and are installed and used to not only remove heat in summer but to remove moisture from under the roof/ceiling or in attics. I know some one who uses whirly birds/turbine ventilators though they have said height is really important for them to be effective. So I ended up not going with fans for exhausting air on the opposite end wall to the cooler and instead got a 30cm turbine ventilator whirly gig thing. I also found a few more exhaust fans [for bathrooms, etc] and got one [25cm AUS $49.00. that will fit under the whirly, extracting air keeping the turbine spinning. The exhaust fan is not on a thermostat but I figure I could just turn it off and maybe cover it in winter to stop heat escaping. I will be placing it in/on on the roof nearer towards the highest point where hot air should rise to. I don't know how effective it will be but with misting under the benches, the evaporative cooler and trickling water down the shadecloth/matting against the fence I'd be happy if it only reduced temps just a few degrees. Where my masies, dracs, pleuros, oncids, miltonias etc are at the moment is a mucher small potting shed, which I kept totally closed up last summer but I did set up a hose in there to release a small spray of mist [slightly dripping] and have the evaporate cooler in there [+ fan inside circulating air around]. Despite some days with temps going past 35 degrees celcius I didn't lose or have any plants visibly suffer or have masie leaf drop except for one plant that was a newbie. I think it was keeping the humidity up around 80-90% [+ shading] that helped. My main concern really has been about ondontoglossums and hybrids with the cooler/cold ones like crispum, I have been told and read too that they do better if temps can be kept lower in Summer. I will post back later on how it works out and put some pics of my turbine/exhaust fan up in my Pleurothallidinae and Oncidiinae Grow House photobucket folder. Damian. Here is a link that might be useful: My http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b253/daemondamian/Orchids/Pleurothallidinae and Oncidiinae Grow House/

That's actually what we're gunna go with! I mentioned them, this morning, to my fiancé and he didn't know they had those. So he did some google searching on it and called a distributor. We're gunna have them middle of next week. Since we're getting through a distributor it's cheaper than I've found anywhere else. About $90 each.

I agree with much of what has been said here. There are different strengths and weaknesses that you need to match up with your style of cooking and comfort levels as far as obtaining service. I almost think some would be better off with a rangetop and wall ovens so you could consider the oven and burners separately. I have cooked/baked on various ranges over 50 years and only three years ago bought something with higher range burners and convection. I can cook /bake/roast on any of them. Having said that, it is wonderful to have a great range. You can teach an old dog new tricks(baking/roasting with convection). I have a Wolf DF and love it. You might consider the DF if you do a lot of baking/roasting because of the electric elements, you can use the various modes to direct the heat from the top or bottom. It will also keep the temperature swing a little tighter. If you broil steaks/fish though you may want to consider something with an infrared broiler. It may be important for you to consider how hot the oven door gets. I don't like standing cooking in front of a hot door myself and we have several little ones in the family. The Wolf doors do stay cool. As far as burners, I have found the sealed Wolf burners on the DF, which are different from the Wolf AG work well for me. I use the simmer, which is the lowest of low on all burners quite a bit. Trevor who has the Culinarian did a simmer test with paper on the Culinarian, the Wolf AG semi sealed and Dacor. I did the same test with the Wolf DF on the regular burner and the simmer set on the lowest simmer and had no marks on the regular burner and one very slight spot of discoloration, almost imperceptible, the size of a fingernail on the simmer burner. As far a s maximum heat from your burners, I have had plenty of heat from the Wolf for my needs. I tend to use either a 12 inch cast iron skillet or DeBuyer steel pans. Some like the BS or Culinarian for using a Wok, but for me going from 16-17 K BTUs to 21-23K BTUs is not the same as jumping to 100,000K +/bTUs of a real WOK burner. I planned to get one this summer for outside but have been busy taking care of my parents so that is on the back burner, so to speak. I do like the configuration of the BS burner and think it would contribute to even heating especially if you use less expensive or cast iron pans which tend to have hot spots. As far as the heat going sideways, I use a 7.5 inch pan to cook caramel and have no trouble with the outside of the pan getting hot with the flame adjusted properly. If I have little pan I use the small burner. We have been very happy with the Wolf DF. For others, they have been happy with other choices. Here is a link that might be useful: simmer test.

I really don't think the "brand" of hood makes any difference at all. You want it to be as tall, wide, and deep as you can tolerate with a 1200 CFM blower. Lighting that suits you and variable speed fan control are very nice to have. For the grill you want something that is at least 42" wide over a 36" top, 30" deep is good. The taller the hood is the better job it will do of collecting the smoke and grease, I'd look for 15-18" at least. The grill can generate a *lot* of smoke and grease to exhaust, you want to give it a big chimney. I think our hood is 42 x 30 x 24 and is mounted just above eye level. It has a 1200 cfm remote blower, 10" smooth wall pipe going about 6 ft up and then about 10 ft on a diagonal to the vent in the side wall of the attic (two 45 deg elbows). It barely keeps up with the grill with an adjacent open window providing unrestricted MUA. For most cooking it's fine on the lowest fan setting, which keeps things pretty quiet in the kitchen. I have to admit unless it's sleeting outside I don't use the CC grill for "real" grilling, but do use it a lot for veggies and such. Sorry now I didn't get the griddle instead.