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Bathroom / shower prep

15 years ago

So I am doing research research trying to get all the steps down for preping this bathroom so it is done right. When we purchased the home it was only 6 years old and the master bath had cracked el cheepo 6"x6" wall tiles on the floor in the field. We just lived with it until the shower started to fail. We have gutted it and found many problems that contributed to it's ultimate failure. We found no insualation in bottom section of framing against exterior walls (bottom 12")in the shower area, and nails in the shower pan below 12". The other huge problem was the cracking field tiles throughout the mb. We found that altho they put 2nd layer of 3/4" plywood it was not screwed down nearly enough. DH says we have to put a ton of screws into this 3/4 in plywood to firm it up. I have gone to the web site you all suggested for the Ditra and the other Kerdi products and I am confussed. Should we put the additonal screws into the field flooring and then use this Ditra to help it even further? I have seen the Ditra used in the shower stall as well too? btw the top half of my house is stick built and the bottom cbs we are in florida. The joist have 24" spacing and I know this tile was el'crap'o before but I also know it cracked and want to fix the problem.

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Your better bet is to ensure the floor structure is structurally sound. It's okay if the floor is out of level and/or not flat. But it needs to be sound. Then float the floor with mud. Floating will build the floor elevations up to both flat and level. The perfect substrate for some really cool marble. Depending on the combination of interior or exterior or whatever the makeup is, as mentioned, a membrane may be needed. But the location and type of membrane can be dependent on the makeup of the space and how it relates to the thermal envelope of the house itself.
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Did the first guy admit he was "cutting corners" or is that your opinion? It's not clear that he was. There's more than one method to properly prepare for tile, method for waterproofing, etc. You might have jumped the gun and gotten somebody less qualified. "Two layers of moisture barrier under the hardibacker on the floor" is a clue. Really? That's a new one. That stuff is supposed to be "glued and screwed", i.e bedded in thinset, etc. (I'm talking about outside the shower area. The shower floor is a whole different matter. BTW, what about pre-slope on the shower floor? Anybody doing anything about that? You might want to find a real tile guy. This post was edited by homebound on Fri, Apr 26, 13 at 8:38
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Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.
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thanks, drilled a few holes in the lath for added mechanical bond and applied a traditional mortar base coat. To keep things consistent with the other walls I left a little lip so i could apply mesh tape and thinset before the painted waterproof membrane. it'll be flush after that. If that sounds problematic speak now, since I'll be giving the mortar a couple days to set up. :)
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