450 degrees in just a few minutes (could go higher, but that was more than I needed just testing it). I did take a quick look yesterday at the Kirkland model while picking up food and a grill utensils for Memorial day. Noted the folded metal corners, screws, etc. which made me more appreciative of the Virco quality in welded stainless steel (lid, lip, etc..) that they ground to a perfect edge and fit. One minor thing that I did not like were how easy the utensil hooks can swing out. I will look for a rubber gromet or something like that to slide over the end to keep them in place. Did I mention this unit is heavy? Not near the 450 lb that the Costco claimed, but Virco did not skimp on stainless steel. Double wall doors, lid that feels immense, and a minor detail, but I really like the stainless steel skirt at the bottom as it makes it look permanent vs. portable (even though it has locking casters), and how about that cover bsbbq?! Fully insulated with velcro ties. For those interested, Costco has a Hoffritz (hoffritz.com)6 pc. stainless-steel and black santoprene (like rubber) grill set that includes a large turner, tongs, biiiig fork tipped knife, grill brush, basting brush, and a 10 x 16" (I think) grid grill. Sorry to push Costco, but I checked Walmart while getting some other stuff, and just two pieces (with wood handles) were more, so I am glad I waited.

I purchased the Costco "Classic" back in the early 2000's - I think it was 2000 to be exact. I am STILL using it in June of 2019 (love to read the "I'm afraid of this new product's longevity / reliability" comments posted in 2002). Went through several grill covers - I leave it out all year long - much too heavy to move around and I am in NJ so we don't use it after November open it in late April/Early May. A good Quality Cover is important to keep water out of the side burner compartment (does not drain at all) and main burners - water is bad. But if I took some photos of this grill you would think it was only a few years old. It is by far the best grill I ever owned - replaced the heavy duty high BTU side burner once because of water damage (found an exact replacement - you need to search for the specific model to buy quality parts - not the imported junk sold on Amazon) and the main burners once in 18 years - one of them needs replacement again - I did find the CORRECT heavy gauge stainless main burners on line at a BBQ parts store. As a comparison (you get what u pay for) the thin gauge stainless burners that u get from Big box or Amazon cost around $20 or less for all 3 burners - the correct heavy gauge SS replacement burners cost over $20 each - if u but the cheap ones they will rot out in a season or maybe two - the heavy gauge replacements will last 5 to 10 years. Other than trying to find a quality cover that will last more than 2 years (I am trying a new "King Kong" brand cover - it's more $$$ than the run of the mill types but fit, feel, vinyl thickness seems to be of a much higher quality - last one was a top of the line Sears brand - got about 4 years out of it before it rotted away. The grills are indestructible as is the frame, cover and other parts that fall apart on other grills in 5 years or less, no rust or corrosion anywhere, easy to clean, BTW - I converted mine from propane to Natural gas after the first 3 or so years once NG was available in my neighborhood, I also converted a 40 year old Propane fireplace to Natural Gas.. You don't need a "special kit" from the manufacturer - all that is needed is either replacing the venturi valve orifices on each of the burner controls including the 3 main burners, the rotisserie burner and the side burner, or you can carefully drill out the old orifice to support NG (Propane is under higher pressure and uses a smaller hole than NG) - I did this on the fireplace - you need a special sized (numbered drill bit) drill bit used by machinists - they use numbered bits as opposed to what most people are familiar with like 1/8" may be a #34 in numbered bits - they can be had just google - I think Harbor Freight may carry them as well since they are used by the automotive repair industry as well. Once you look up the correct size hole for Natural gas in your area (sometimes extreme elevation may require a different size than sea level - easy enough to research) I recommend using a drill press (I have a small one that cost under $100) for a perpendicular hole - but the orifice metal is soft brass - this isn't rocket science. If you want to purchase replacement venturis - especially if your not sure if u may move and convert grill back to propane) they are very inexpensive for the kit, size / threads are pretty much standard - any good Fireplace, Professional Plumbing that deals in gas appliances, or BBQ grill stores (on line or retail stores) can provide you will the venturis u need based on the model grill - or worst case - u may have to remove an old venturi and take it to the store or measure it using a caliper or precision ruler & a photo to send to on-line store. There are only a few different sizes & most BBQ grills are one size. The post that said " I heard you need to change burners if u convert from propane to N.G. or u get a yellow flame" is total nonsense - if they were told that by a salesman - they were being ripped off. The burner doesn't care if the fuel is propane or NG - that is ridiculous when u consider how many other gas appliance can run on either fuel and imagine having to change the burners in a 600,000 BTU Pool heater because you changed from propane to NG or visa versa - that would cost about $500... I converted both my fireplace & grill to NG and did not change either devices burners - the FP I drilled out the venturi and the grill my local FP store/repair shop (been there for 40 years - an old timey type shop) had the 5 venturis needed for the grill - again not special for my grill - same size as Weber and other big USA name brands (Ducane, Viking etc...). I think they were something like $2 to 3 dollars each. Taking apart the gas control valve is easy once you get it out of the grill - a bit difficult cause you have to lay on your back to access the valves. REMEMBER you also need to remove the old Propane feed hose assembly from the main valve assembly that has the gas input male flare fitting (should be 3/8" male flare - if you measure the outside diameter of fitting it will measure 1/2" !! that is 3/8", a true 1/2" fitting would measure 3/4" outside diameter - I don't know why gas fittings are listed by INSIDE DIAMETER when all other plumbing is measured by outside diameter - anyway - if it measures 1/2" then it is 3/8" that you would need to order/buy - this can be purchased on Amazon - the hose comes in 6', 12', 25' & 36' either 3/8" or 1/2" fitting - one end - the female 3/8" flare - screws onto grill 3/8" male flare - the other end is a two piece quick connect safety push & click connector - u need to have an outside male NPT (pipe thread) connection from you on/off ball valve - I believe it is 3/8" also (not flare - NPT) - the hose comes with the quick connect adapter that screws onto the 3/8" male NPT - the other end is the "quick connect" female - the hose has the male push on quick connect. The rubber hose is actually 1/2" even though they list this as a 3/8" (I accidently ordered the 1/2" hose & Fitting - 2x as expensive - longest = 24', and huge in comparison to what I needed - as I said before the 1/2" is much less common - harder to find and measures 3/4" fittings, hose etc... - had to send it back to amazon and replace with a 36' x 3/8" worked perfectly & extra length was needed. Having an outside ball valve allows me to shut system off when not in use - in case a critter chews thru my hose - but if you disconnect the quick connect fitting it has an automatic shutoff at the fitting - good if someone pulls off hose at house but doesn't help if vinyl hose is cut or eaten. The hose I have is 15 years old - no leaks. o conversion is relatively simple 2 step process - replace the 5 venturis or remove and drill with correct numbered drill bit sized for NG & replace propane high pressure hose with low pressure 3/8" x length needed - 3/8" flare on grill end & quick connect on hose end - recommend installing outside ball valve to shut of gas when not in use.

Well you guys and gals almost had me hooked on a Virco... That clasic is one awesome looking grill... I couldn't really afford that much, even though that is a good value for that type of grill... The Mark VIII was going to be my choice, due ot it's scaled back price... Even so... in the end I choose a Great Outdoors grill for $300, normaly priced at $400... The MV7 would have cost me $460 or so... pushing the limits of my budget... If I had been able to actuall see a Virco in person I may have stuck with the idea of buying one... I'm surprized they are not selling the Virco grills in places like Lowes, Home Depot, and Menard's yet... They'd probably sell like hot cakes... Anyways... thanks for all you who commented on your grills, it was extreemly helpfull in my quest for finding a quality grill at a good price... Back to your Virco talk now...

My only experience is with smaller countertop wine coolers, but one I used did manage to keep about a 10°F difference between the topmost and bottommost shelves. Not divided into neat zones though; the middle shelves are simply between the two temperatures, the lower the colder. I've never found the standard temperature rules for red/pink/white wine to necessarily be the best though, with for example, shiraz tasting better when served cooler than cabernet even though they're both red, so the variable temperatures proved useful. Some wine coolers work like most refrigerators - they use a compressor. Others don't use a compressor, which have the side benefits of being silent and making more efficient use of space. Both varieties can be made to cool different compartments to different temperatures if designed carefully. You may want to crosspost this question on the GW wine forum too.