Wow! Nice to see so many fans of the grill I just purchased! I had Tuesday off (June 18) and was getting ready for a party that night. So I went to my local San Leandro Costco to get chips etc. Well, there on the floor were four Virco grills, one out of the box. I took one look, and wished I had brought my truck. I was back later that day with the truck and brought one home. IMHO a full size pickup truck is needed to carry this thing. I also had some ignitor problems but after adjustment of the gaps they all seem to work ok. I also fiddled with the connectors underneath the control panel and that seemed to help. I also found some fraying of the glass fabric cover on the ignitor wiring to the rear rotisserie burner, where it exits the back of the cabinet. I moved the whole cable up a bit to expose an unfrayed portion to the metal edge. I'm planning on wrapping the cable with some heat resistant tubing where it goes through that area, to prevent more fraying. I had a similar problem with a table-top patio heater I got at Costco a while ago. The ignitor cable frayed and shorted out on some metal. Easy enough to fix once I discovered the cause. I cooked a rib steak on it last night and it came out great. It was kind of hard to see some of that beautiful stainless get carbonized, but what the heck, it's a BBQ grille. The right door on mine has a very minor crease in it,which it took me a couple of days to notice. I'm not about to return this behemoth because of that! The burners all seem to function perfectly, with nice blue flames. Oh, I don't think the handle and the shelf are interchangeable. The spacing on the bolt holes are wider for the shelf than for the handle. Still have to hook up the rotisserie motor. I'll probably do a chicken tomorrow. All in all this is a beautiful, extremely well made grill. I've been using charcoal for years... I have a Kingsford egg shaped grille that I use to roast chicken and turkey. It comes out great, but I'm tired of all the smoke inhalation I inevitably get doing this. I also have a New Braunfels horizontal smoker with separate fire box. I have been consistently disappointed with the dried out results I get with this one. It's also very labor intensive, adding just the right amount of wood/charcoal and trying to keep the temperature even. I'm keeping both, because sometimes you just want that real smoke, but the Virco Classic will be my main grill. Faster and cleaner! Oh, and thanks to those who posted the info on the natural gas conversion. I'm going to order one of those kits right away. I'll have to run the gas line a considerable distance to the patio, but it will be worth it in the long run. One minor complaint: the wheel locks are very hard to get at... but they do work. Just for grins, I took a magnet to the whole unit. It's nearly all 304 non-magnetic. The only magnetic parts I found was the surround for the ceramic rear burner, and some nuts holding the chassis bolts under the cooking unit. As for the stainless burner tubes not holding up to heat, I hope they do ok. After all, they use stainless steel for automotive exhaust systems... which contain a lot more corrosive gases than propane.

I purchased the Costco "Classic" back in the early 2000's - I think it was 2000 to be exact. I am STILL using it in June of 2019 (love to read the "I'm afraid of this new product's longevity / reliability" comments posted in 2002). Went through several grill covers - I leave it out all year long - much too heavy to move around and I am in NJ so we don't use it after November open it in late April/Early May. A good Quality Cover is important to keep water out of the side burner compartment (does not drain at all) and main burners - water is bad. But if I took some photos of this grill you would think it was only a few years old. It is by far the best grill I ever owned - replaced the heavy duty high BTU side burner once because of water damage (found an exact replacement - you need to search for the specific model to buy quality parts - not the imported junk sold on Amazon) and the main burners once in 18 years - one of them needs replacement again - I did find the CORRECT heavy gauge stainless main burners on line at a BBQ parts store. As a comparison (you get what u pay for) the thin gauge stainless burners that u get from Big box or Amazon cost around $20 or less for all 3 burners - the correct heavy gauge SS replacement burners cost over $20 each - if u but the cheap ones they will rot out in a season or maybe two - the heavy gauge replacements will last 5 to 10 years. Other than trying to find a quality cover that will last more than 2 years (I am trying a new "King Kong" brand cover - it's more $$$ than the run of the mill types but fit, feel, vinyl thickness seems to be of a much higher quality - last one was a top of the line Sears brand - got about 4 years out of it before it rotted away. The grills are indestructible as is the frame, cover and other parts that fall apart on other grills in 5 years or less, no rust or corrosion anywhere, easy to clean, BTW - I converted mine from propane to Natural gas after the first 3 or so years once NG was available in my neighborhood, I also converted a 40 year old Propane fireplace to Natural Gas.. You don't need a "special kit" from the manufacturer - all that is needed is either replacing the venturi valve orifices on each of the burner controls including the 3 main burners, the rotisserie burner and the side burner, or you can carefully drill out the old orifice to support NG (Propane is under higher pressure and uses a smaller hole than NG) - I did this on the fireplace - you need a special sized (numbered drill bit) drill bit used by machinists - they use numbered bits as opposed to what most people are familiar with like 1/8" may be a #34 in numbered bits - they can be had just google - I think Harbor Freight may carry them as well since they are used by the automotive repair industry as well. Once you look up the correct size hole for Natural gas in your area (sometimes extreme elevation may require a different size than sea level - easy enough to research) I recommend using a drill press (I have a small one that cost under $100) for a perpendicular hole - but the orifice metal is soft brass - this isn't rocket science. If you want to purchase replacement venturis - especially if your not sure if u may move and convert grill back to propane) they are very inexpensive for the kit, size / threads are pretty much standard - any good Fireplace, Professional Plumbing that deals in gas appliances, or BBQ grill stores (on line or retail stores) can provide you will the venturis u need based on the model grill - or worst case - u may have to remove an old venturi and take it to the store or measure it using a caliper or precision ruler & a photo to send to on-line store. There are only a few different sizes & most BBQ grills are one size. The post that said " I heard you need to change burners if u convert from propane to N.G. or u get a yellow flame" is total nonsense - if they were told that by a salesman - they were being ripped off. The burner doesn't care if the fuel is propane or NG - that is ridiculous when u consider how many other gas appliance can run on either fuel and imagine having to change the burners in a 600,000 BTU Pool heater because you changed from propane to NG or visa versa - that would cost about $500... I converted both my fireplace & grill to NG and did not change either devices burners - the FP I drilled out the venturi and the grill my local FP store/repair shop (been there for 40 years - an old timey type shop) had the 5 venturis needed for the grill - again not special for my grill - same size as Weber and other big USA name brands (Ducane, Viking etc...). I think they were something like $2 to 3 dollars each. Taking apart the gas control valve is easy once you get it out of the grill - a bit difficult cause you have to lay on your back to access the valves. REMEMBER you also need to remove the old Propane feed hose assembly from the main valve assembly that has the gas input male flare fitting (should be 3/8" male flare - if you measure the outside diameter of fitting it will measure 1/2" !! that is 3/8", a true 1/2" fitting would measure 3/4" outside diameter - I don't know why gas fittings are listed by INSIDE DIAMETER when all other plumbing is measured by outside diameter - anyway - if it measures 1/2" then it is 3/8" that you would need to order/buy - this can be purchased on Amazon - the hose comes in 6', 12', 25' & 36' either 3/8" or 1/2" fitting - one end - the female 3/8" flare - screws onto grill 3/8" male flare - the other end is a two piece quick connect safety push & click connector - u need to have an outside male NPT (pipe thread) connection from you on/off ball valve - I believe it is 3/8" also (not flare - NPT) - the hose comes with the quick connect adapter that screws onto the 3/8" male NPT - the other end is the "quick connect" female - the hose has the male push on quick connect. The rubber hose is actually 1/2" even though they list this as a 3/8" (I accidently ordered the 1/2" hose & Fitting - 2x as expensive - longest = 24', and huge in comparison to what I needed - as I said before the 1/2" is much less common - harder to find and measures 3/4" fittings, hose etc... - had to send it back to amazon and replace with a 36' x 3/8" worked perfectly & extra length was needed. Having an outside ball valve allows me to shut system off when not in use - in case a critter chews thru my hose - but if you disconnect the quick connect fitting it has an automatic shutoff at the fitting - good if someone pulls off hose at house but doesn't help if vinyl hose is cut or eaten. The hose I have is 15 years old - no leaks. o conversion is relatively simple 2 step process - replace the 5 venturis or remove and drill with correct numbered drill bit sized for NG & replace propane high pressure hose with low pressure 3/8" x length needed - 3/8" flare on grill end & quick connect on hose end - recommend installing outside ball valve to shut of gas when not in use.

Alek, I enjoyed looking at all the info on your web site. Recently I saw a NG Y0660 that had been returned to Sam's Club because the buyer really needed the LPG version. It was a bit dented-up in the front, and missing the rotisserie parts. Sam's wanted $700 for it. I started the task of trying to figure out just what it would take to convert it to propane and to repair the cosmetic damage. When I realized that the valves would have to be replaced, as well as the orifices, both doors and one drawer, as well as all the missing rotisserie parts, I almost bagged the idea, but decided to call Grand Hall and check on parts prices anyway. Am I ever glad that I did! The prices were so reasonable that the total cost to convert to LPG and restore the grill to new condition was only $270.00 including shipping. When my offer of $500.00 was accepted by the manager at Sam's I picked up the grill and ordered the parts. I've installed them all, with the exception of one valve that was not correct, a missing bracket to mount the rotisserie motor, and slides for the tank drawer ... basically just "noise-level" problems. Haven't had a chance to use the grill yet, as the weather hasn't been too cooperative, but I'm looking forward to it. My total cost for an "almost new" Y0660 grill is now $770.00. ! ! ! ! ! ! S C O R E ! ! ! ! ! ! There are a few things that I've learned from this exercise that I'd like to pass along: 1) Grand Hall's customer service folks are great! Their policies are pretty good too ... with the incorrect part it was "Oh, we'll get a replacement out today", not "Send it back and we'll see ...". 2) If you know what you need, and how to ask for it, you *CAN* buy the parts to convert these grills from NG to LPG and from LPG to NG. 3) The parts costs are ludicrously low ... the main valves, which include the orifice are only $5.00 each, and the side burner and rotisserie valves are $8.00 each, as they include a little more hardware. It probably makes more sense to just buy the darned things than to do the drilling for the LPG to NG conversion, and it's WAYYY better to buy for the NG to LPG conversion than to try filling and redrilling with smaller holes. 4) Rather than actually replacing the valves, which can be difficult to get off the manifold of the Y0660, it's better to just swap the valve cores and the orifices. I don't know for sure if the valves are common between the Y0660 and the smaller Y0101XC, but the conversion pictures on your site look identical. For example, the main burner gas valve part number is P03222007A for LPG. Also, the valve bodies have the number "0404A" cast into the side. This is the same for the NG and the LPG valves. How does this compare to the part number & valves for the Y0101XC? I have a full set of parts for anyone wanting to convert from LPG to NG. I'd also be interested in that guage that you've got left over from your conversion,...

I just compared the burners, and there are various types of burners as noted but for this type (stainless steel tube type) the guage is the same (although there are a few different shape configurations, the Virco-type is the most common and undoubtedly an OEM part, see the pics at all.grills.com or go out and take a look for yourself). I did not see thicker SS on the higher end units and if someone (besides the latest incarnation of lpsage aka chilidawg) wants to point out a guage difference, I'd like them to reference the model (not just brand) as the burners of this type are similar if not identical. I just would not be worried about burners failing. It aint gonna happen. As far as the other components, well its really all pretty standard, simple stuff (outside of the SS cabinetry). Just knobs, wires, ignitors, etc. which could all be serviced by many equivalent parts if it came to that. I'm just happy that I got such a great value. The most expensive component is undoubtedly the assembled SS cabinetry, hood, etc.