Sanjeev, I'm going to answer your email here in public, instead of by email. I have a feeling alot more than just you could benefit from the answer. In addition to these issues, I just got off the phone with my mother and found out that there may not be a proper vapor barrier for the steam showers. He's only half right. A vapor barrier is NOT required in a steam shower. It NEEDS to be WATERPROOFED. A vapor barrier is no where NEAR adequate. You asked for a spec. Have them look up in the TCNA Handbook (it'll read exactly the same in ANSI specs) Steam room method SR614 (which also covers steam showers). The following are REQUIREMENTS, not suggestions, and copied verbatum from the TCNA Handbook: *Steam rooms require a waterproofing membrane on all surfaces to prevent moisture from penetrating adjoining spaces. *slope ceilings (2" per ft. minimum) to avoid condensation from dripping onto occupants (sometimes sloped to center to minimize rundown on walls). *waterproof membrane must be capable of withstanding heat exposure. *all steam rooms will require adequate insulation on walls and ceiling to reduce moisture condensation at temperature variations. THERE ARE REQUIREMENTS, people!! They MUST be followed! I wonder if you would be able to take some time and explain in a short summary what should be done for the steam shower to be constructed in a proper manner. ANY steam shower needs to have a seamless membrane from ceiling to floor. In other words, it needs to all be connected. That's the biggest difference between a steam shower and any other. Even the pan membrane must be connected to the rest of it. Although by far, they're not the only two membranes, the only two I've ever used was Hydroment's Ultraset, which is a liquid urethane goop that gets troweled with three coats over all surfaces (except the floor-- it gets troweled over the preslope and sealed to the drain flange, and then the final mud slope goes over it inside the membrane), or Kerdi, which goes over everything, INCLUDING the final (and in this case, only) mud slope. It is paramount that it be completely watertight, and whatever is used for the membrane must be vapor proof, as well as waterproof. Believe it or not, not all waterproof membranes ARE vapor proof, and they WOULD also require a vapor barrier. Examples that come to mind right off hand would be either one of Laticrete's waterproofings-- Hydroban or 9235. At this point, I don't know what else you need to know. If I can help, don't hesitate to contact me.

Google Steam Shower Light and some choices may appear. As an aside, please make sure that no one who uses the steam shower has high blood pressure. I installed a steam shower for a client who used it after doing some exercising, and the steam possibly contributed to his coronary. He was only 54, slighting overweight & maybe had high blood pressure. Here is a link that might be useful: Steam Showers and High Blood Pressure

A thicker gasket might fix it but I don't know if one is available or if you could make one yourself. You might be able to order a replacement gasket and cut it down to fit. I would not recommend sealant. You can always reset the tile assuming it is on a cement backer board which it should be in a steam shower. If it is on any kind of gypsum board or a fiber-cement board you will eventually have to replace the ceiling anyway. Good luck with it.

Creative Tile, I also have heard good things.....my plan has totally changed, you can search my name and find my design thread. I'm now doing a 48" neo angle. I want to go USG because they make the custom pan with the drain where I want it, and trimming these pans will obviously create some strange aesthetics at change of plane w/ wall. Problem is, no one wants to sell me one! Here in NJ, only distributor within 90 minutes are HD stores. I call them, and they don't know the custom pan exists. Local tile guy has Wedi, but very pricey, and it doesn't seem ideal for a neoangle curb, also no custom pan. I'm assuming you may have a connection with someone who will sell me one? Online USG email support for neo angle sent me back to uninformed home depot, and a general instruction which doesn't address how to wrap the 135 deg. angle. I'm going to call them one last time, if not I'll take my chances with kerdi membrane with a mud deck. 1 question on the USG product...if i go with the new ultralight foam, does it require full membrane, or just the seams? If it requires full membrane, should I just use fiberrock as it will probably be much cheaper? Any ideas how to do the 135 neoangle curb, I'm probably just going to borrow kerdi methods over at johnbridge, and use the sealant for any questionable corners . Thanks so much for your help!