Here is what I did: - I first tested the concrete floor for moisture evaporation by taping 2ft x 2ft sections of thin plastic (e.g., polyethylene, plastic painters tarp, etc) over the concrete, ensuring a air-tight seal is made around the perimeter of the plastic sheet. Did this in several different areas of the concrete slab. Left the sheets in place for 24 hours or so, and did not observe any moisture evaporation (i.e., non trapped under the plastic). If you have moisture trapped under the plastic, then the following procedure may not be the best solution for your basement. Also, if your basement is prone to flooding, FORGET H/W FLOORS! - After completing/passing the moisture test, painted entire concrete slab with concrete sealer (Behr 1-Part Epoxy Acrylic Concrete & Garage Floor Paint, available at Home Depot). - After sealer has dried for a couple of days, proceeded to lay a foundation of 1 x 4 treated lumber laid out flat (on 4" side) in a 2 x 2 grid that will need to be glued to the floor using ample amounts of construction adhesive. (NOTE: The treated lumber is used just in case any moisture finds its way through the concrete sealer, and the lumber will not rot if this happens. Keep in mind that even if the above moisture test passed, and a sealer was applied, cracks can still appear in the slab over time, and moisture can find its way through these cracks.) The grid will need to accommodate ¾" x 4 x 8 sheets of sub flooring. With the 1 x 4Âs are laid flat, the 2 x 2 grid is stronger than having the standard 16" on-center spacing using for the joist of most residential floor systems. I used the grid layout for additional strength to support items such as a pool table, etc. Be sure to leave at least ¼" gaps (for expansion) between ends of wood sections and around the perimeter of the room and room walls. If your concrete floor is uneven, you will need to either shim the 1 x 4Âs to make them level or use a floor leveling product to make the concrete slab level. I used stacked bricks to hold down boards that were slightly crooked until the constructive adhesive dried (over night). This will help you keep the floor reasonably level, assuming the concrete surface underneath is reasonably level. - Next step is to add your 2nd layer of moisture protection, 6 mil polyethylene sheeting, which can be stapled on top of the 1 x 4 lumber. Ensure you overlap the edges by 4 to 6 inches and that the overlap sections are stapled onto a 1 x 4. - Next step is to add 3/4" sub-flooring. I used the Advantage tongue and groove product sold by Home Depot. This stuff is better than layered plywood and other OSB type products I have seen. It costs a little more, but it simply stands up to moisture better and appears to be stronger than the alternatives. I used 1 ¼ inch decking or galvanized screws to secure the Advantage to the 1 x 4Âs. - On top of the above, I installed Alloc laminated flooring, which is a floating floor that is much better than the stuff sold at Home Depot and Lowes. It is easy to install compared to hardwood floors, and in my opinion is much more durable. Just Google "Alloc" to find a dealer near you. - All of the above may seem extreme, but I feel 100% confident that no moisture is going to make it through the concrete and into the laminated flooring. The floor is very study, does not give, and is quieter than my ¾ inch Brazilian Cherry flooring installed on the main floor above.

There is a company call stone deck that has a system for putting stone on top of an exsisting deck. I looked into that a while ago, but I decided to go with the Schluter system. (My deck is about 75% complete.) They make an membrane to go under stone or tile that makes it completely waterproof, and will take freeze/thaw cycles. It has drawbacks and advantages. It's expensive, but then there's no staining and refinishing. I had trouble getting approvals from my building department. It took time, but the approvals came through. I went with an outdoor rated porcliean tile but, I saw a deck in my area that used slate. It look great. You have to find someone who can lay tile well and can follow instruction. Your not likely to find a deck builder who has had experience doing this in your area. I wasted a lot of time chasing the only one in my area who had done this before. They were not that close and didn't want to come out here. I found an experienced deck builder in my area that was willing and to try something new. His men, and some subs, are installing the tile, the point is that the deck builder is standing behind the whole thing. I was ready to go with a comtractor who wanted me to get someone else to do the tile. I felt uncomfortable with that. Who's responble if somethng goes wrong?

A home inspector will usually only document deficiencies that might prevent you from buying the house or force the owner to lower the sale price. He/she might have little or no professional design experience or training. If you want to make major changes to the house, an architect should see it before you buy it and he/she could provide an engineer if needed. I often get asked to do that in the Boston suburbs. The biggest issue I can think of is the cost of adding a retaining wall in order to expose the "garage" wall and the possibility that the existing foundation footing at that point will not be 4ft below the new exterior grade. You should be able to look at the original construction documents at the city/town building department to get an idea of the existing foundation design and you will probably be asked to expose the existing footing. You will also have to deal with the fact that the edge of the existing basement slab will not be directly supported on the cut down foundation wall and the existing slab will not slope toward the new door for drainage. The Massachusetts "8th Edition Residential Volume" is available online (see link below). The code is comprised of the 2009 International Residential Code (IRC) and a separate package of Massachusetts amendments to the IRC. The Amendments essentially turn the IRC into the old MA code. If it had been possbible to make the code more difficult to read they would have cone it. Massachusetts has always made exceptions for existing buildings so pay close attention to APPENDIX J - EXISTING BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES in the Amendments. In addition to all of this information being online, the IRC is sold by the International Code Council www.iccsafe.org and the Massachusetts amendments package is sold at the Statehouse Bookstore (617-727-2834). In what city/town is the house located? Here is a link that might be useful: all MA building codes

We did stair treads. LVP in basement. White oak site finished in the rest of the house. Ours is a medium to dark stain though.