Different roses take different lengths of times to root. I have had some root in 4 to 5 weeks and some take months. I would wait until you see roots out of the bottom of the cups. Then you must "harden" off the plants by opening the bag a little each day and watch for wilting. If the cuttings droop, close the bag. Finally you will be able to leave the bag open all day. then it will be time to take them out of the bag. I usually let them adjust for a few weeks before transplanting into a bigger pot. I have even planted a small cup straight in my garden and forgot it was in a small cup! Found it when I was going to move the rose to another place in the garden.

I remember that a few years ago kitchens were seen with large flooring-sized tile on the backsplash.... a 12 by 12 tile often set on-point. Very geometric and often with dark tiles. The size was simply overwhelming to the 18" height of the average backsplash. This emerged as people were moving away from full-height granite splashes to tiled splashes. Within a year or two this look had fallen out of fashion. I was very glad that this was one trend I missed. It seems that regardless of what's in or out, there are so many choices available that many looks will both remind one of an earlier era (and may appear dated as a result), and that many looks will be considered classic. In the 60s and 70s, there were far fewer people with way less money and less desire for "the latest," so manufactures and designers were more constrained. Now it seems that the sky is the limit. Even the most elegant of kitchens and baths from a generation ago seem, at best, average to the rooms of today. The industry can support a variety of looks because so many people are spending money on creating their dream homes. For example, carrara marble or black granite are materials that will always be in demand. They are valued because their appeal does not diminish. It is a good idea to vary the tile shapes and possibly materials from bathroom to bathroom in the same house. I do believe that accent tiles-unusual shapes or colors or materials-will be dated sooner than a square or brick shaped tile. So for my house, as fabulous as some of the travertine, porcelain, metallic or glass tiles are, I have not used them to avoid dating the bathrooms in such a way that is rather difficult for the average homeowner to change in ten or twenty years.

nope looks natural to me!! i love pictures, and the baby smell..except the poop..jeeze who knew such a tiny lil thing could pack such a wallop!!! lol

Guess I left a lot out. Mowing height. There is never any reason to mow St Aug lower than the mower's highest position. I experimented with letting St Aug go unmowed for years at a time. Yes it was an experiment and not lazy. It grows up to 32 inches and then stops growing. As I mowed it down I think I liked it best when mowed between 9 and 12 inches. Insect pest control. When you have been organic for awhile, you will find very few pest problems. Why? Because when you are not poisoning the insects the predators seem to come to your property to feed. You'll see birds, toads, lizards, insect predators, and some other critters keeping Nature in balance. Sometimes things happen, though. Grubs are the offspring of the beetles that usually swarm your porch lights in late spring. If you did not have enough to cover your lights, then you likely won't have any issues. But if you're still afraid, dig up a square foot of turf and look for them. If you don't see more than a dozen, you're fine. If you see uncountable numbers, perhaps your barfing all over them will fix that one spot. But what about the rest of the lawn? I would use an organic critter called beneficial nematodes. These are not the root knot nematodes that plague the south. These guys introduce a disease to the insects that essentially paralyzes them right away. I get the Guardian Lawn Patrol brand from a company out of Colorado. Make sure the yard is saturated with moisture before you apply. Nematodes need a film of water to move around and find the insects. Those will take care of fleas, too, but not ticks. Ticks can be attacked in January with the beneficial nematodes. The BN only work in the soil. In the spring ticks emerge from the soil so the BN don't catch them. Are chickens an option??? As for fire ants, as of yesterday I have a new approach. Fire ants are not sugar ants. In fact they will not survive an attack of too much sugar. So up until recently I have used molasses, about 3-4 ounces in 5 gallons of water, and drenched the mound. That worked to move the ants somewhere else. This week I added a little booster to the mix. I put in a packet of bread yeast and let that yeast grow in the water for about 20 minutes. Then I drenched the mound. I'll need to check again next week, but that ant hill is gone with no new life that I could see in the vicinity. Many ants are farmers. They bring very specific materials to their ant hill homes and deposit that stuff in their chambers. Then very specific mold and bacteria grow on the feed they brought in. The ants do not eat the food material directly but they eat off that mold and/or bacteria. When you disrupt their farming operation by introducing foreign substances, that contaminates their crop and they starve. Sugar is one of those substances with fire ants. My guess was that yeast would further contaminate their crops. I hope I'm right, because it is a very organic approach. And yes, applying a chemical insecticide will damage the microbes in the soil. One class of microbes are called microarthropods (which is probably Latin for tiny insects). If you use insecticide it takes out a lot of that class along with all the beneficial things they do for the soil. They will rebuild their population, but it is just as easy to use some other means to deal with pests. I've been organic in San Antonio since 2002 and have not seen one insect issue in that time. Even the roaches seem to have gone away.