Guess I left a lot out.
Mowing height. There is never any reason to mow St Aug lower than the mower's highest position. I experimented with letting St Aug go unmowed for years at a time. Yes it was an experiment and not lazy. It grows up to 32 inches and then stops growing. As I mowed it down I think I liked it best when mowed between 9 and 12 inches.

Insect pest control. When you have been organic for awhile, you will find very few pest problems. Why? Because when you are not poisoning the insects the predators seem to come to your property to feed. You'll see birds, toads, lizards, insect predators, and some other critters keeping Nature in balance. Sometimes things happen, though. Grubs are the offspring of the beetles that usually swarm your porch lights in late spring. If you did not have enough to cover your lights, then you likely won't have any issues. But if you're still afraid, dig up a square foot of turf and look for them. If you don't see more than a dozen, you're fine. If you see uncountable numbers, perhaps your barfing all over them will fix that one spot. But what about the rest of the lawn? I would use an organic critter called beneficial nematodes. These are not the root knot nematodes that plague the south. These guys introduce a disease to the insects that essentially paralyzes them right away. I get the Guardian Lawn Patrol brand from a company out of Colorado. Make sure the yard is saturated with moisture before you apply. Nematodes need a film of water to move around and find the insects. Those will take care of fleas, too, but not ticks. Ticks can be attacked in January with the beneficial nematodes. The BN only work in the soil. In the spring ticks emerge from the soil so the BN don't catch them. Are chickens an option??? As for fire ants, as of yesterday I have a new approach. Fire ants are not sugar ants. In fact they will not survive an attack of too much sugar. So up until recently I have used molasses, about 3-4 ounces in 5 gallons of water, and drenched the mound. That worked to move the ants somewhere else. This week I added a little booster to the mix. I put in a packet of bread yeast and let that yeast grow in the water for about 20 minutes. Then I drenched the mound. I'll need to check again next week, but that ant hill is gone with no new life that I could see in the vicinity. Many ants are farmers. They bring very specific materials to their ant hill homes and deposit that stuff in their chambers. Then very specific mold and bacteria grow on the feed they brought in. The ants do not eat the food material directly but they eat off that mold and/or bacteria. When you disrupt their farming operation by introducing foreign substances, that contaminates their crop and they starve. Sugar is one of those substances with fire ants. My guess was that yeast would further contaminate their crops. I hope I'm right, because it is a very organic approach.

And yes, applying a chemical insecticide will damage the microbes in the soil. One class of microbes are called microarthropods (which is probably Latin for tiny insects). If you use insecticide it takes out a lot of that class along with all the beneficial things they do for the soil. They will rebuild their population, but it is just as easy to use some other means to deal with pests. I've been organic in San Antonio since 2002 and have not seen one insect issue in that time. Even the roaches seem to have gone away.

Thanks a lot dchall, you definitely know your stuff.

Is there any reason why I would wait a few weeks to lay compost and cornmeal, other than waiting to see how the grass holds up? Its been 3 weeks minimum since I put down the fungicide and I used a very small amount because the instruction were confusing and I didn't want to over apply.

I agree the instructions are confusing. I stay far away from that stuff.

The reason to wait is so the fungicide will have decomposed a little by itself. If you apply corn meal on freshly sprayed fungicide, the predatory fungus will not grow. If you wait and then apply the compost, the fungicide will be at least partially depleted. Then the predatory fungus, which lives in compost, will have a better chance to survive on the corn when you apply that. From what you said it sounds like you could go ahead and move forward.

Its still been raining daily.

I bought 2 bags of black kow compost and 15 lbs of cornmeal that I'm going to apply this afternoon. I hope it helps out with the fungus.

Do I lay the compost and then cornmeal or cornmeal and then compost. Or does it even matter?

It doesn't matter which goes first. And yes, the corn meal should fix the disease problems.

Mow as usual. Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting.