The dimensions for each footing are 3 feet wide. Since the wall is itself 6 inches thick, the engineer plans dictated another 6 inches on both sides of the foundation wall, including the side of the wall underneath the floor slab. this would make the footing 18 inches deep. we had to of course dig underneath the wall and beyond another 6 inches for the footing. the height for the footing was 12 inches tall. hopefully this makes more sense. so the footing was not just adjacent to the wall but underneath and beyond just like any normal footing would look like. the footings were done for two reasons. One, to provide better structural integrity for the house since load bearing paths were added during prior remodels and two, to provide foundation stability for the trench drain that was being dug. Originally when we discovered the lack of footings, the plan was to dig the trench 14 inches away from the foundation. The engineer thought that was a safe plan ONLY because the soil that the foundation rests on is glacial soil and very very hard. However since I wanted to shore up the wall for reason #1,we put in the footings. My concrete contractor spent 2 days doing this and really, it was a lot simpler than I imagined. I can post pictures of the project as well as the footings when I get back to my computer. Thanks.

I see this thread, so I thought I comment. I just got off the phone with the lady I talked to 2 years ago at Sani Tred to ask her a question and to tell her how this product absolutely saved us. I have a rental house in Seattle that we purchased in 2013 (after a lousy inspection obviously which did not reveal the basement dampness or leakiness). Even with a new French drain in the back half of the basement towards a hill, water started to coming up in various places. Bottom line I had to have the paint ground off and then my husband and I and our contractor set to work applying the product. We had to do the etch, neutralized with baking soda, and get that water out. Then we had to do the torching and the product mixing per instructions, which we read very carefully, and then apply. So two very rainy years later no leaks! Now I want to put down a better floor on top, vinyl or carpet. One floor specialist came and held some sort of meter over the floor and he said, oh your cement has 22 or 25% moisture and forget applying vinyl as too much moisture and too uneven. Then another guy came and said. I smell mustiness, so no carpet but you can install vinyl because it's waterproof and we can level it, but he had some question as to the leveling material sticking to the Sanitred. That's why I called. Apparently, if the stuff does not stick ( and we have not found that out yet), you have to mix part of the Sanitred product with sand and spread it around. Hope we do not have to do that. As to the meter, the Sanitred lady said her tech person doesn't understand how the meter could be reading the moisture content of the cement underneath. I'd like to know that too.

All; I am currently in the process of evaluating interior drainage waterproofing companies and I wanted to share my experiences so far. I am not expert in the field but from reading and talking to people over the past couple of years I have learned a couple of things concerning basements that have water problems. (a) first check to see where the water is coming from. Check your gutters, liters, e.t.c and make sure that they are clean. If your gutters are fine make sure that you have extenders at the bottom of your liters to push the water far away from the foundation of your house. If your gutters need replacing replace them. If you have water coming from around your windows putting in a interior drainage system is not going to solve your water problem. (b) the best kind of waterproofing is from the OUTSIDE NOT from the INSIDE. You want to prevent the water from coming into your house. WHERE PRACTICAL dig arond the foundation of your house and seal from the outside. All interior drainage systems do is route the water into your basement them back out via the sump pump. Inside drainage systems are practical when your house sits on a high water table (as in my case)or is below sea level. With interior drainage systems you are more prone to termites and radon gas getting into your home. Since I will be going with an interior drainage system I plan on monitoring the radon levels in my home. (c) Where practical check you walls for leaks. Seal all cracks with hydrolic cement or something similar. Below are the companies that I have met with over the years and my notes on each company. Most of them are bad and one is good. ValueDry - definitely one of the more expensive waterproofing companies. The first time I met with them was in 2008 for both homes. The reps were very informative and polite. When I called again this year (2010) the sales manager said that I could email him some questions since they had come out to see my primary home in NY already. He emailed me back a quote (still expensive) and told me that I had three days to consider (most of the other companies give you 30 days). When I emailed him back a few days later with another question he told me that since the three days has passed the "special price" that I had received was no longer any good! NOTE: turns out company is not licensed in the county of NY where I live. Sounds like the company didn't really want my business. American A-1 - my first time interviewing them. Read allot of good reviews about them on web. Checked references and the references were good. Had a good product at a decent price. Salesman was nice but was probably new on the job and not very knowledgeable. Tried to "con" me into buying stuff that I didn't really need. Really did not know his stuff. Tried to telll me that he had to drill a hole in my foundation BEFORE he could quote me a price and BEFORE we signed a contract. Guys who know their stuff will be able to look at the foundation near the floor and tell you what kind of foundation you have. I told him he could not just drill my floor BEFORE we agree on terms. So the deal was off. NOTE: turns out that American A-1 is under a company is not licensed to do work in the county of NY where I live. They told me that they were. American Dry Basement Systems - definitely has some of the most rude salesmen of all the companies that I have ecountered. My first experience with them was in 2008 in my home in NY. This guy was busy "bragging" about how great the company is but didn't want to leave us any references OR literature. He thought that since he lived in the area that it would be an easy sell. I tried to ask him questions and basically his answers did not make any sense. When I tried to point this out to him he talked all over me. Salesman didn't seem to knowledgeable when I asked him certain questions. Since I didn't have any work done in the basement in 2008 and I called them again in 2010 and thought I would give them a second chance. This time I got a guy that got rude with me over the phone. ADBM, if you are reading this you definitely need to send your guys back to school to learn how to talk to people. NOTE: ADBM is not licensed to do work in county of NY where I live. They told me they were. Vulcan - "The bigboys on the block" that have been around for years. So, since you have been around since 1949 why do you only offer only a 10 year guarantee when the other companies that have not been around as long as you offer 25 years or more? Price came in way less than the other competitors. Is it because your company offers a different kind of conduit for the water (polyethylene) which cost less is not as strong as PVC pipes? Salesman was also prone to bragging. Could not give me an answer why they only guarantee for 10 years. Also, why are you not a member of the National Association of WaterProofers and Structural Repair Contractors. I couldn't get a straight answer on this either. Salesman didn't seem too knowledgeable. Most states require a dedicated line for the sump pump. Salesman who claims to have been in the game for a long time did not know this! Mid-Atlantic - met with them back in 2003. Salesman was very nice but when he saw that we had a finished basement (one part is a office, the other part is a living room area. we also have a tiled floor) the look on his face was "man, is your basement going to get jacked up by the time that we get done with it". He was very honest in telling us that the area would really get messed up with the jack hammering and everything else that had to be done. I believe he quoted me a price of $12,000 back then to do two walls. Good thing I didn't have it done then! Why? (a) that was during the housing boom when prices for everything concerning a home was much more expensive so quotes for waterproofing was also more expensive back then also (b) if I only had two walls done I would have had to call them back to do the other two walls years later because now my entire basement floods in comparison to just one section of the basement. 1st Quality Basements Systems - meet with this salesman about my home in NJ back in 2007 or 2008. Very courteous and professional. I believe he quoted me a price that I thought was too high for me to pay for an investment property that I was already loosing money on (might have been $7000). Ended up just putting a sump pump in the basement. Still have a water problem just not as bad. If I ever do have to waterproof this house I would find this person's business card and contact him. This company is part of Basement Systems Inc which the below company is also a part of. They are totally independent of each other. Basement Systems of New York - very good experience so far. The salesman was very knowledgeable. I met with them a few days ago concerning my home in NY. The salesman broke everything down to me in simple terms that I could understand (now I know the difference between monolithic and two slab foundations). Waiting to hear back from them on a quote. If the numbers add up I will go with this company. Note: all of the companies that were not licensed in the part of NY where I lived wanted to charge me MORE MONEY to do the job than companies that were licensed in NY. That seems real backwards to me. If anything, they should charge me LESS!!! I read a a good article on the Bob Vila website about basement leaks. It is attached below. It is definitely recommeded reading for anyone who wants to understand basement leaks. Feel free to email me with any questions at max4ever69@gmail.com Best, Max

Tiles or carpet with rubber backing or vinyl flooring are about the worst things to put on a basement floor. There is a constant vapour drive upward. Normally, that vapour is dispersed in the air and noticed as high humidity. But when you put those impermeable materials on the floor, the vapour is trapped and may condense into liquid water. And then run and collect in the lowest spots. A dehumidifier is necessary in most climates to keep the relative humidity (rh) below 50%. Be sure to keep yours running. If, with the tiles gone and the rh controlled, you're still getting water accumulation, it may be from the leaky walls. And even if the water comes up through the floor, it may simply be from water accumulating on the walls with no place to go or overwhelming the ability of the weepers to drain it. For instance, during heavy storms a homebuyer of mine complained of water running under the basement floor. You could hear it and actually see it around the basement drains. Turns out the source was the downspouts. The water ran down the foundation wall and accumulated in the five-inch gravel bed under the concrete floors. Since then, I always run the downspouts into underground drain pipes running far out into the yard. The plastic on concrete test has long been outmoded by moisture meters. You're almost always going to get moisture under the plastic because of moisture drive. This post was edited by worthy on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 18:32