The tallest counter-depth units are from KitchenAid/Whirlpool and are 72" tall. When we did our kitchen remodel in 2006, we went with a KitchenAid counter depth at 72", and there is about a 0.75" gap above it where the wood cabinet is. I would suggest trying to do something similar in your situation. Replace the current cabinet above the 82" with a larger one that would come down to 73". But you'd have to see if they can still match the style and color so it all goes together. If not, then just a cut piece of wood that is color stained to match would be the next option.

All of you are so fantastic-- I seriously don't know what we'd do without the help of this forum. It certainly wouldn't be a DIY project, and we'd be spending twice as much to get a kitchen half as good! So THANK YOU all for the time and consideration you put into answering questions. After reading through these posts, I'm convinced to go with a full-size fridge. I just can't stomach paying more for something smaller, and as sue pointed out, I think a CD could backfire worse if a family moved in and needed more fridge space. FWIW, I live in a mature, gated, lake community with homes from 30-years-old to brand new, and $150K to $700K. Pretty eclectic! We live in one of the least expensive homes-- 3 beds, 2 baths, built in '94, with one of the biggest yards in the neighborhood. It has fantastic resale potential, but my hideous kitchen (posted it several months ago but can't find the post) it white linoleum with really odd/crappy white cabinets, white laminate countertops, and brass hardware. Awful layout. In my size home in this community, our potential buyers could be anywhere from a retired couple looking to downsize to a young military couple with one or two children. So even though we don't necessarily need the fridge space, the next people might! wa8b: the layout issue you mentioned is certainly a potential problem as far as traffic flow. Behind the peninsula is a dining area, and to the left of the fridge/pantries in my drawing is the living room entrance. We were originally trying to keep the appliances situation close to where they are now to avoid added costs, but now that we've decided to stick with an electric range (even though we'd rather have gas), the potential to easily move the non-outside-venting range is definitely an option. However, my drawing represents where the stove and sink are currently located, and I've never had much of a problem traversing the 7.5' of space... Also, I like the idea of keeping the drawer bases for pots and pans on either side of the stove. But maybe I should referse the fridge/pantries and the stove/counters. The room would be more open when walking in, and the stove wouldn't be right next to the garage door. I'll probably post a separate thread about layout to discuss this... caryscott and raehelen, thank you so so much for the photos and drawings! It helps a great deal to see my potential options. caryscott, I can see that a non-CD fridge does not stick out that far, and the gray sides definitely make a difference. For those of you who described the logistics of recessing the fridge into the wall, thank you so much! This MIGHT be a possibility-- we'll see how comfortable DH is with the idea. :) Again, you've all given me a lot to think about-- I really appreciate all of the feedback! Katie

Extending the stiles refers to widening them. If your stiles are, say 2" wide each, you may have an option of widening them to, say 2 1/2" each. Therefore your 36" cabinet is now 37" as you've added a total of 1" to the total width. While this is an option, you will also need to consider that widening the stiles does not widen the cabinet box. When installing the cabinet between tall gables or tall gable and wall, you will need spacers to match the widened stiles or have the cabinet box flush with the outer edge of the stiles in order to attach the cabinet properly. Counter depth typically means it is closer the the 25" of the counter. It does not automatically mean it will work for a built in. Counter depth fridges are typically taller as well in order to keep the storage capacity. When it comes to building in the fridge, try to find a model where the doors hinge open in line with the fridge box width. If the doors hinge outside of the box, your doors will need to be proud of the tall gables on either side. Otherwise they will bind against the tall gables or, you will need a greater gap between the gables to accommodate the wider swing which will detract from the built in look you're trying to achieve. (Albeit crude, see below for what I'm talking about, top view)

Even if you were to purchase an integrated-built in Sub Zero you would need at least a 26" cabinet depth. Depth is the single most important refrigerator measurement. It's amazing that a site like AJ Madison doesn't include depth for every single fridge. Also, when checking depth, it's best to look at the specification sheet. Manufacturers measure in different ways. But you want to know the depth from the back of the fridge (watch for clearance/placements needed for air circulation, water lines & outlets) to the front of the finished door -- but not the handle. If panels are involved I'd go over the specs very carefully to be sure the thickness of the panel is included in the measurement if there is concern with anything fitting flush. Handles have different depths (projections) themselves but aren't considered in depth measurement. Depth is key because most fridge doors need some type of clearance in order to open. So usually it's necessary to install with the thickness of the door (and sometimes part of the gasket or side) showing. Ask about the finishes on each side of the fridge as well if the door thickness will sit proud of the adjacent cabinets. A zero clearance fridge, like Liebherr, can be made to look fully built in however.